Flynn level 2 pool with a spectacular view! Photo / Crystalbrook Collection
Tiana Templeman checks out what's new and cool on a weekend getaway in Cairns
Cairns is the Hugh Jackman of Australian cities. Refreshingly genuine and undeniably hot, with a knockabout charm that's irresistible. Like Jackman, Cairns just seems to get better with age.
Once considered little more than a convenient jumping-off point for the reef, the unofficial capital of Far North Queensland has recently become a notable destination in its own right. There's a vibrant new arts precinct, chic small bars, boutique coffee roasters, award-winning restaurants, microbreweries, and plenty more to keep you entertained in and around the CBD.
Getting your bearings
Cairns International Airport is a 10-minute drive from the CBD. The pedestrian-friendly downtown area is easy to navigate on foot and you'll find shopping, drinking, dining, bars, and dozens of things to do, just a short stroll from your hotel. A car is handy for day trips but if you're in town for a good time, not a long time, you probably won't need one.
Check in
There hadn't been a new luxury hotel built in Cairns for more than 20 years until Crystalbrook Collection opened three of them in rapid succession. Flynn joined the chic resort-style Riley and modern apartment hotel Bailey a few months ago and was worth the wait. Billed as the "social butterfly" of the group, the contemporary 311-room hotel is located in the heart of Cairns with Coral Sea views from many of the blissfully quiet rooms and several signature dining venues. All that's missing from the jaw-dropping see-through pool above drinking and dining spot Boardwalk Social is an inflatable unicorn.
If you aren't game to bare all in your bikini, there's a second pool surrounded by luxe cabanas on level two together with an Eleme Day Spa. Or you can join the good-natured throng across the road at the salt water swimming lagoon on the Esplanade ("the nard" to locals), which can accommodate 1000 people. It is patrolled by multiple lifeguards and open from 6am to 9pm.
Day one
Enjoy an a la carte breakfast with ocean views at Flynn's Italian, which doubles as the hotel's breakfast restaurant, before heading to the nearby Cairns Aquarium. This is the only aquarium in the world dedicated to the habitats and species of just one region and it is home to more than 16,000 sea creatures, great and small. General admission includes daily talks and animal presentations, or you can upgrade to a small group tour like the Marine Life Encounter which offers a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at the aquarium and Cairns Turtle Hospital, plus the chance to slip squid into the velvety soft mouths of stingrays.
For lunch, Candy Cafe dishes up some of the best cafe fare in town. Sauce Brewing Co. offers tasting paddles of beers with a local twist and generous grazing platters. Down the road, Perrotta's at the Gallery has a modern Mediterranean menu and you can browse the Cairns Art Gallery and its excellent gift shop once you've finished eating. Drop into Caffiend for coffee and a chocolate brownie or strawberry tart. Or both.
Cairns has enough bars to suit every taste and mood. Some of the more unusual choices include Prawn Star, a row of prawn trawlers that have been converted into laid-back drinking spots serving freshly caught seafood, and Flamingos Tiki Bar. This tropical basement oasis has glass windows overlooking the street and is like a trip to Hawaii without the jetlag (or the US dollar cocktail prices).
The Harbour Walk boardwalk is lined with an impressive choice of restaurants for dinner. Walk-ins are possible at many spots but you'll need to book for the likes of local favourite Waterbar & Grill Steakhouse which draws a crowd every night of the week. For equally good steaks and a sophisticated date night vibe, the indoor dining area at CC's Bar & Grill offers a taste of the outback with a dash of European flair.
Day two
After an early breakfast, a half-day river tubing adventure awaits. It takes around 30 minutes to reach the Mulgrave River where guides fit your life jacket and help you put on yellow helmets that make everyone look like a Minion. Once you're suited up, it's time to grab an inflatable tube and jump in the water. This tour is suitable for ages 5 and up and is more chill than thrill but negotiating rapids in a red floating donut can be harder than it looks. Getting tossed out is part of the fun as the water is crystal clear and barely waist-deep.
When you get back to Cairns, ask to be dropped off at Rusty's Markets which is famous for its intoxicating mix of nationalities, international produce, and delicious food. Locals have been coming here since the 70s to stock up on fresh fruit and veges; out-of-towners mainly visit for the vibe, the food stalls, and to post colourful photos on Instagram.
Top choices for an affordable and delicious lunch include a locally roasted brew created by award-winning roaster Billy Haoda at Billy's Coffee, a bahn mi from Thi Thi's Cafe, and pretty much anything from Frenchies Patisserie which is directly opposite Billy's.
A helicopter trip over the reef or the rainforest is a must-do this afternoon if the weather (and your budget) allows. If not, there are plenty of other things to keep you entertained. Go for a swim in the lagoon or take a gondola ride on the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway for a unique perspective on one of the planet's most significant rainforests. Near the entry to the Skyrail, you'll find the Australian Armour & Artillery Museum, which is the largest museum of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere. Every Wednesday is Open Hatch Day with a complimentary 11.30am tour led by a tank expert and the chance to peer inside rare tanks.
When night begins to fall, slip down the red brick laneway 100 metres past the art gallery and into the sultry surrounds of cocktail bar Three Wolves. Book a table on Friday or Saturday nights or drop in early for happy hour from 4pm. The vibe is as warm as a Cairns evening and the cocktails wouldn't look out of place in New York's coolest bars.
From here, head up the road and take the lift to Rocco for another drink and to watch the sunset, or go straight to dinner. Downstairs from Rocco, Paper Crane has an appealing Asian/Australian fusion menu with standout dishes such as vodka-flamed prawns and sizzling chicken pad kaphrao. Around 80 per cent of the produce at this restaurant is sourced within a three-hour drive of Cairns.
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand's seasonal direct Auckland to Cairns service operates from July 1 to September 30. Outside those dates, you can fly via Brisbane with Air NZ, Qantas and Jetstar.
ONLINE
tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au
queensland.com
Check the latest border restrictions in each state and territory before travelling. For more information visit australia.com
If you need a break from the slopes or don’t fancy a ski, there’s still a lot to do this.