Australia: Ride the desert train

The maze of Nitmiluk Gorge, Katherine. Photo / Supplied

Anna has rich caramel-coloured hair, long legs and eyelashes to die for, but no, she's no catwalk model. Anna is the camel I am trying to climb on to for a walk through the red sands surrounding Alice Springs.

Mounting isn't easy but I'm on. As she raises her front half my foot slips from the stirrup and I'm precariously balancing on her humped back. "Hold on and lean back," Marcus "The Camel Man" Williams says as Anna raises her backside to standing and I'm up. Marcus caught Anna in the wild in the northern Simpson Desert in 1993 and named her after his friend "no-tooth" Anna. Reliable, steady and strong, Anna is his preferred camel for young riders.

Williams has been working with camels for nearly 30 years and founded the only camel tour business in Alice Springs, the family-run Pyndan Camel Tracks. We're on a one-hour tour of his property in the White Gums valley at the foot of the majestic MacDonnell Ranges 15 minutes from Alice Springs.

Our camel train sets off and I settle into the soothing movement of Anna's footsteps. The sun beams from a blue sky that is a bright contrast to the deep red sand and scrub.

The English introduced about 20,000 camels to Australia in the 19th century as pack animals to transport freight and people in the outback. In the 1920s and 1930s once trains and roads appeared, the animal's handlers released many of them into the wild. Today, large numbers still roam free, but some, like Williams', are a great tourist attraction.

The tour is one of our stops on the 3000km journey on the Ghan train from Darwin to Adelaide. Operated by Great Southern Rail, the train is named for Afghan camel drivers who helped explore the country's interior in the 19th century.

The three-day journey cuts from north to south through the middle of the massive Australian continent, making it one of the great train journeys of the world. We boarded in tropical Darwin, a great destination for year-round sun. It was the end of the wet season and it was a bearable 30C. It's a laid-back city with plenty to see and do.

On the Ghan I watch the changing landscape from my Gold Service Twin Cabin three-seater lounge that converts into my bed at night.

It's pretty small but has everything I need: shower, toilet and a window to watch the countryside slip by.

The landscape changes. The earth becomes a deep, burning rusty red and the bush becomes coarser and drier. Termite mounds loom like stalagmites every few metres. I look out for wildlife and people and see little of either.

Only an hour out of Darwin is the first stop at the small settlement of Adelaide River, which has a cemetery with 434 war graves and a war and transport museum.

Back on to the train for a lavish three-course lunch and a glass of bubbly in the Queen Adelaide restaurant. After lunch, I spend the afternoon getting to know the fellow guests in the Outback Explorer Lounge bar.

All food and drink is included in the Gold and Platinum services, which include an impressive wine list and a barman who makes a mean bloody mary.

The food is cooked fresh by onboard chefs and over the three days we're treated to gourmet fare of fresh fish, lamb, pork and kangaroo steaks with such luscious desserts as lavender pannacotta and lemon meringue pie.

As it's the Anzac Tribute trip, the train stops in Katherine, for an extra night on top of the usual journey.

We're welcomed to the mining town by the local Jawoyn people, who treat us to a fantastic meal on the banks of the Katherine River, along with performances by indigenous dancers and our special guest performer, country music singer James Blundell.

Back on the train and my bed is made for me.

The next morning I'm woken with a cup of tea in bed at 5am for the Anzac Day dawn service in Katherine.

For the first time, a group of Maori Katherine residents sing out God Defend New Zealand at the service.

We're joined on the train by veterans and Australian RSA representatives who take part in the Katherine parade.

It's pretty hot in the town, so I find a shady spot to watch the march, which has a large contingent of Air Force personnel from the local base.

A highlight of the stay in Katherine is a cruise in Katherine Gorge.

The gorge is part of the magnificent Nitmiluk National Park, owned by the Jawoyn. Made up of 13 separate gorges, Nitmiluk is a maze of waterways sculpted by Katherine River from the sandstone over countless millennia.

Nitmiluk is the Jawoyn name for Katherine Gorge and means Cicada Place. We're given a guided tour of the river gorge and I eagerly look out for crocs peeping up from the water but it's the wrong time of year and the closest I get is seeing some bubbles rising up from the cool depths.

I'm told they are all hiding underwater to keep cool, but although I keep a keen eye out for a pair of eyes or a snout, it was not to be. At other times of year they sunbathe on the banks of the river.

We stop off the boat up the gorge and see 10,000-year-old paintings depicting a rainbow serpent, figures and a mythical character called a meanie, which I take to be the equivalent of the New Zealand taniwha.

It's awe-inspiring to imagine the ancient people drawing Jawoyn stories that can still be seen and admired today, surrounded by beautiful layers of coloured rock.

Back on the train, it's our last night and there's more luscious food to be had. The drink and fun is flowing in the lounge car and Blundell treats us to a show of original songs and covers. His son, Travis, is with him and treats the guests to a great version of Soul Sister. My favourite is Blundell's The Ghan, which he wrote for the trip. "There's no place I'd rather be than the Ghan."

On the last day the train trundles down the southern length of the country.

It's relaxing sitting with my feet up reading, listening to music and raising my head every so often to see what's outside.

At Port Augusta we board an original troop steam train, the Pichi Richi, and take a short journey through the Flinders Ranges to Quorn. Maintained by volunteers, the Pichi Richi, with original fittings and interior, is a step through time. It helps you imagine what it was like to travel on the Afghan Express.

The Ghan pulls into modern and thriving Adelaide, with its nightlife, shopping and restaurants.

It's a great way to see the country and gives an understanding of how vast the continent is. With fun activities, frequent stops, amazing scenery, tasty food and drink, top class service and staff who look after your every need, I can't think of a better way to travel.

Joanne Carroll was a guest of Great Southern Rail.