Australia: Misty-eyed memories of the Blue Mountains

The Three Sisters at Echo Point in the Blue Mountains are an impressive sight on a clear day. Photo / TNSW

Aussies love a joke. Especially one at the expense of Kiwis. And they've got triple value from this one.

Up in the Blue Mountains, where Sydney folk go to escape the heat and bustle of their city, there's a famous viewing spot called Echo Point. The tourist websites extol the glories of this place - visitbluemountains.com.au, for instance, declares: "No visit to the Blue Mountains is complete without visiting Echo Point in Katoomba. Breathe in the fresh mountain air and marvel at the majesty of nature. Iconic views of the Three Sisters, across the Jamison Valley and towards the Ruined Castle, will inspire you."

I first visited Echo Point 55 years ago as part of a group of New Zealand Scouts. It was covered in mist and we couldn't see anything.

Half a century later my wife and I went on a bus tour of the Blue Mountains and, naturally enough, stopped at Echo Point. Unfortunately it was foggy and we could only get vague glimpses of the magnificent vistas our guide assured us were on offer.

"Ah well," she said, "you'll just have to come back again."

So when we were visiting Sydney a few weeks ago, and some Australian friends asked what we'd like to see, Echo Point was top of our list.

And, guess what? As we drove into Katoomba it was raining. Echo Point was covered in cloud. And the famous Three Sisters were completely whited out.

"That's a pity," said Steve Parker, our host. "Usually ..."

But I'd stopped listening. I no longer believed in Echo Point's magnificent views. It was, I was convinced, a joke. A con job on the poor dumb Kiwis. At least the tea shops were open and we got some very nice coffees from a place with a great view of ... the mist.

Not that there isn't plenty of real stuff to see in the Blue Mountains.

Steve, who was also a scout and likes hiking, took us to the less-known viewing point of Govett's Leap. There was no cloud here and the outlook was spectacular.

The red stone cliffs plummet 400m to the floor of the gorge below. To the right, the Bridal Veil Falls drop about 200m down a sheer cliff face. Ahead, through the blue haze which gives the mountains their name, apparently caused by the oils the gum trees dissipate into the air, was a stunning vista of deep gorges, stark cliffs and a great, green plateau soaring in the distance.

The rock formations here are amazing, the ancient stone having been carved by eons of harsh weather into all sorts of shapes, though Steve reckoned the Three Sisters at Echo Point were even more impressive. I had to agree that the pictures of the Sisters on show in local souvenir shops were very impressive ... what a bunch of kidders.

We also went down into the Megalong Valley, a tranquil area of gum forests and farms, framed by more spectacular stone cliffs. Steve and his wife Mary often come here walking, and it's certainly a beautiful area, but it looks pretty tough country to me and climbing the trails up those stone faces on a hot day must be murderous.

There was a sign of just how harsh these hills are at another stopping point, the Explorers' Tree, the termite-eaten stump of an ancient blackbutt tree on which explorer William Lawson reportedly carved his initials in 1813 when he, along with Gregory Blaxland and Charles Wentworth, became the first Europeans to cross the Blue Mountains, opening up the interior for settlement.

The terrain is so rugged that several earlier trailblazers were unable to make the crossing and this bold trio only did so after a terrible journey which left them ill and nearly killed their horses.

An even crueller reminder lies a short distance up the track which leads past a clearing with several mounds of stones, some with larger rocks at their head, marking the graves of a dozen convicts who died building the road through the mountains.

On the way back into Sydney Steve took us to another grave, which lies on the outskirts of the Blue Mountains town of Faulconbridge, that of Sir Henry Parkes, five-times premier of New South Wales.

Parkes' face appears on the A$5 note because of his title as Australia's Father of Federation, the man who more than anyone else led the states to unite into a single country in 1901.

I was interested in Sir Henry because he wanted New Zealand to be part of the new Commonwealth and it's largely thanks to him that the Australian constitution still contains a provision for us to join up one day.

His grave is a rather humble one, although his headstone has been joined by a small obelisk erected to mark the centenary of federation, acknowledging his work.

The cemetery is a peaceful place, a good spot for musing on the fantastic rugby, league, cricket and netball teams which would have resulted if he had got his way.

But, then again, if we were part of Australia, who would they use as the butt for their jokes about the view from Echo Point ... and who would we be able to laugh at for calling their beer XXXX because they can't spell?

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand offers more than 50 non-stop flights every week from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch to Sydney, with connections available from all around New Zealand.

Where to stay: The Grace Hotel, an art deco hotel in the heart of the city, is an easy walking distance from most attractions including Mardi Gras.

Blue mountains: For details see visitbluemountains.com.au, visitnsw.com or bluemountainsonline.com.au.

Further information: For general information on visiting Sydney see sydneyaustralia.com.

Jim Eagles travelled to Australia with help from Air New Zealand and Tourism NSW, but made his own way into the Blue Mountains.