Fremantle's Little Creatures brewery heaves across two levels. Photo / Supplied
Overlooked Perth offers Anna King Shahab more dining options than she can possibly hope to sample at once.
Sydney is famous for its charming village bistros and glitzy waterfront establishments, Melbourne its laneway tapas and casino bling spots, but the third biggest city in Oz is bursting with a culinary charm all of its own. Perth, a comfy seven-hour flight (three movies: time flies) from Auckland on Air New Zealand's aptly named Dreamliner, boasts more cool garden/rooftop/underground/large-and-bustling eateries and bars than you can hope to tick off. And, within a 30-minute radius you have the charming port city of Fremantle and the scenic winemaking area Swan Valley, each offering distinct gourmet experiences to complement Perth. Here's why we can't wait to get back.
CLOSE FOR COMFORT
In the central city, Northbridge is built on hospitality. Home to the city's bar culture, recent changes in licensing mean it's more buzzing than ever, and the vibe here is as much about great casual food as cocktails and craft beers. Roe St marks the start of the precinct and also the entry to Chinatown. There's excellent yum cha and Cantonese fare here, with burgeoning northern Chinese options (dumplings and noodle fans rejoice) plus plenty of Vietnamese and Malaysian eats to be had, too.
Roe St is also home to The Standard where, on an unusually warm spring night we grabbed a table in the back garden and ordered far too much food; the pick of the bunch was the crispy eggplant and the Malaysian chicken - oh, and the beautiful broccolini to inject a bit of virtue.
The Standard takes bartending seriously and they do this fabulous thing of taking one great drink and offering it five ways, changing this up every few months. We had the luck of encountering the Negroni, and the two versions we tried (the "Lionel Ritchie" and the "Dr Pama") were simultaneously audacious and seductive, as a good Negroni should be.
MORE IN NORTHBRIDGE
Lucky Chan's Laundry and Noodle Bar: This crowdfunded hotspot is so on trend with its underground feel (you enter through a faux laundry), ramen and bao at friendly prices.
Ezra Pound: Bookish types best head to this spot with its loaded bookshelf, to be browsed with a cocktail or wine in hand, from a list that changes regularly.
Pleased to Meet You: Cheap-eat heaven with a diverse selection spanning banh mi, pulled pork and bao in a cheerful canteen atmosphere.
SWANNING AROUND
The Swan Valley is only 20 minutes' drive from the centre of Perth and is the historical home of winemaking in Western Australia. Vines were first planted in the region at Sandalford Estate in 1840 so it's only fair to pay homage with a visit to their cellar door. It's an excellent spot for tastings and a history lesson from the knowledgeable staff, and the adjoining restaurant is top-notch - make sure you book, though.
Sandalford produces very good examples of the fortified wines the region is known for. Their Liqueur Tawny is mellow and affordable, and the premium Sandalera is a dessert in itself, complex and often used in desserts in the restaurant.
Close by and equally bustling is the more recently developed Mandoon Estate. This behemoth of a building houses a brewery (with informal dining), a cellar door for tastings and a fine-dining restaurant. On the sunny lawn Friday to Sunday, there's live music, and families and friends chill with a packed lunch or order onsite - meals are a well-priced $15 or so, and you can buy beer or wine from the cellar door to enjoy.
We dined at the restaurant and my, what a treat! There are substantial gardens and the entree we loved, the Taste of Spring was mostly still in the earth just hours earlier.
Fact: The Swan Valley was named the first Humane Food Region in Australia, in a joint initiative with the RSPCA. A large and growing number of eateries only use ingredients from humane sources.
FREO FLIRTATIONS
Fremantle is the port sister city to Perth, and at only 30 minutes' drive away it's a satellite of sorts, but unquestionably has its own proud personality. The day I arrive the streets are decked in purple for the local Aussie Rules team; the pubs overflowing with eager fans, and a win spelling bonhomie on the town later that night.
Get a feel for the place by calling into the Fremantle Market, open Friday to Sunday day and night. Fresh produce, charcuterie and cheese, Korean-fusion burgers, Venezuelan arepas and Brazilian baked potatoes ...
The historic Docks area is lined with seafood restaurants and also home to Little Creatures brewery - it's huge, it's heaving across two levels and it's a great place to come for pizza and craft beer.
The brewery was sold a few years back so it may not be so indie these days, but it certainly has its heart in the right spot and locals and visitors alike flock there.
Equally as big is the venture the Little Creatures founders went on to pour their heart and dimes into: the casual but smart Bread in Common. Take Depot in Auckland and times by five, add some serious brick ovens in the back wall (with freshly baked specimens delivered to your table), a mezzanine level, and loads of great Western Australian wine on the list.
Another delicious discovery was The Mantle in the city's industrial East End - a shared space similar to Ponsonby Central, but edgier, sexier.
It's a great place to start or end the evening with a drink, or stay longer and grab dinner there: there's Don Tapas (the line-up of house-cured jamon and bresaola on display is impressive indeed) and Short Order Burger Co, a cart operation turning out seriously tasty examples - beef patties come pink, as they well should.
Round off your meal with artisan gelato from Stampede; flavours change regularly and might include bacon with macadamia and toffee or rosemary olive oil. And the night can only get better when you pull up at the bar, Alter Ego, where the groomed beard and pomaded hair count is off the charts. Order the Manhattan, which is served under a smoke-filled cloche.
Or if you're a fan of a tart tipple, go the pisco sour which the bartender sets alight: refreshing, flavoursome and satisfying, with a bit of theatre - much like the city it was made in.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand offers almost daily nonstop flights between Auckland and Perth. Seasonal nonstop flights are available between Christchurch and Perth from December 12 to April 29. You can also fly with partner airline Virgin Australia via Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Perth.
Where to stay: The Mercure is a comfortable and affordable way to ensure the city's many delights are only a walk away. In Fremantle, The Hougoumont offers respite to the "monkish traveller": cabin-size rooms that have everything you need and nothing you don't, at a price to suit.
The writer travelled courtesy of Tourism WA and Air New Zealand.
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