Waitawa Beach is one of the stops on the Te Ara Moana kayak trail. Photo / Auckland Council
If you think you know everything there is to see and do at Auckland's beaches, think again, writes Sarah Ell.
Sitting astride two harbours, with the sheltered waters of the Hauraki Gulf to the north and the Firth of Thames to the southeast, Auckland has an abundance of coastline. And thanks to forward-thinking planners who bought up coastal farmland and converted it into parks, we have an enviable access to many beautiful beaches.
In the last days of the Auckland Regional Council, the purchasing of land for parks continued apace.
In the past decade, the core regional parks at Long Bay — visited more than 1.3 million times a year — Shakespear, Wenderholm, Tawharanui and the Waitakere Ranges have been joined by new and exciting parks to the north, such as those at Scandrett, Pakiri and Te Arai; on the Kaipara (Atiu Creek and Te Rau Puriri); and to the southeast, with a string of new parks along the Tamaki Strait and Firth of Thames coast.
Some of the more recently opened of the 26 parks have relatively fewer facilities than the more established sites.
However, Auckland Council's manager of regional parks, Richard Hollier, says development is ongoing to make sure people can not only visit and enjoy, but also stay in the new parks. Here are a few of lesser-known gems to explore this summer.
The northernmost parks, once part of the Rodney district, face the northern Hauraki Gulf, looking out at Little Barrier Island.
In 2008 the former Auckland Regional Council purchased 50ha of regenerating bush, wetlands and coastal dunes at Te Arai, south of Mangawhai Heads, and this year received a gift of an adjoining 200ha from local hapu Te Uri o Hau.
Pakiri Beach is a traditional horse riding spot. Photo / Supplied
The new, enlarged park will not be fully open until 2016 but in the meantime the headland portion of the park offers wild walks and panoramic views of the coast. There are also picnic areas and a campervan park for overnighting.
Just to the south is Pakiri, fronting on to almost a kilometre of white-sand surf beach, lined with gnarled old pohutukawa, offering sheltered spots for picnicking.
"It's a beautiful beach, but you have to be careful swimming there," says Hollier.
"It is patrolled in summertime at the road end but is not safe further north."
There are no accommodation facilities at Pakiri but there is a classic Kiwi campground just along the road. The movie Savage Honeymoon was filmed here but don't let that put you off — the family-friendly campground doesn't condone bogan behaviour!
One of two parks on the Kaipara, Atiu Creek was formerly a farm owned by Pierre and Jackie Chatelanat, who gifted it to the nation in 2005 — the largest gift of land in the region since Sir John Logan Campbell donated Cornwall Park to the city in 1901. At 847ha, it is the third largest regional park and while it doesn't offer any beach action — the Kaipara is very tidal, and the coastline is mainly muddy estuaries — there are fantastic views of the harbour.
Atiu Creek farm was gifted to the country by the Chatelanats. Photo / Bruce Tupp
Atiu Creek is still a working cattle and sheep farm, so there are walks through farmland as well as through standing and regenerating bush, much of it planted by the Chatelanats. There are mountain biking and horse riding trails and a holding paddock next to the campground to "park" your horse if you stay overnight.
Accommodation is also offered at Courtyard House, formerly the Chatelanats' home, which sleeps up to 14, or the smaller Atiu and Takahe cottages.
"The house has proved really popular since it opened about six months ago," says Hollier.
"It's a beautiful house and people are really enjoying staying there."
Te Rau Puriri, which was also acquired in 2005, lies near the tip of the Kaipara South Head, so it's a bit of a hike to get there — it's about 30km northwest of Helensville. The isolated, beautiful park includes a large dune lake and, after a 90-minute walk, a long strip of sandy beach populated only by seabirds.
"This is another great place for horse riding - there is an area at the entrance for horse floats and you can ride down from there into the park," says Hollier.
WAITAWA AND THE SOUTHEAST COAST
Waitawa Regional Park is one of five parks along the Tamaki Strait-Firth of Thames coastline, acquired in the late 1990s and early 2000s, and was opened to the public only in March this year. Just west of Kawakawa Bay, its 188ha of parkland is spread across three small peninsulas and two sheltered bays. The pretty beach at Mataitai Bay is accessible only on foot and is framed by two pa sites, with views across to the Coromandel Ranges.
For more active recreation, the council has formed a network of mountain biking tracks, ranging from easy to advanced: try the "Exploding Legs" trail if you dare. A championship "disc golf" course has also been set up, in case you want to take your Frisbee along.
Although a big slip took out one of the park's major roads, visitors can still walk or mountain-bike to the beaches. There will be a bach available for rent there from this month, and there is also a seaside campground for users of Te Ara Moana ("the sea-going pathway") self-guided kayak trail, which connects the Omana, Duder, Waitawa, Tawhitokino, Tapapakanga and Waharau regional parks.
Auckland Sea Kayaks offer maps, camping details and guidance for these expeditions, up to five days, with their safety and equipment hire.
"People are really getting to know about the kayak trail," says Hollier.
"It's a bit like the Hillary Trail — you can do sections of it that appeal, or do the whole thing over a few days. There are some beautiful, quite remote campsites along the way."
Auckland's only island regional park is on the southern shore of Waiheke, on Rocky Bay, directly across the island from Onetangi. The park surrounds a sweeping, child-friendly bay and is mostly bush-clad, with a wetland in the southern corner. Walks through the bush offer views across the Tamaki Strait to the mainland.
Along the beach there are plenty of picnic sites, with barbecue facilities at the Poukaraka Flats campground, considered one of the best of the park campgrounds.
The tip is to stay later in the summer, when bookings are light and you may even get the place to yourself.
You can also park up your motorhome at the self-contained campervan site.
"The beach is quite tidal and shallow, but lovely when the tide's in, and there is lots of bird life and some great walks," says Hollier.
Check out all the regional parks at regionalparks.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz. To book a campsite, bach or lodge to stay in, call (09) 301 0101. Bookings are essential as popular sites fill up fast; you cannot camp without a booking.
Regional parks with baches or other accommodation to rent: Anawhata, Atiu Creek, Awhitu, Huia, Mahurangi, Scandrett, Tapapakanga, Tawharanui, Waitawa, Wenderholm.
Regional parks with campsites: Anawhata, Atiu Creek, Awhitu, Duder, Karekare, Mahurangi, Omana, Shakespear, Tapapakanga, Tawharanui, Tawhitokino, Waharau, Waitawa, Wenderholm, Whakanewha, Whatipu.
Keep kauri standing
Kauri in the Waitakere Ranges have been infected with a micro organism which causes kauri dieback disease. Currently, kauri in other areas such as the Hunua Ranges, and on the Hauraki Gulf islands other than Great Barrier, are free from the disease, but if you are visiting Auckland's regional parks this summer, help to prevent its spread by:
• Cleaning shoes, tyres and other gear before and after visiting kauri forests.
• Staying on designated tracks and keeping off kauri roots.
• Looking out for kauri protection zones (where tracks are closed) in the Waitakere Ranges and Hunua Ranges.
See kauridieback.co.nz for more information.
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