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Home / Travel

Ask Lonely Planet: Seven days in musical heaven

NZ Herald
12 Jul, 2009 04:00 PM6 mins to read

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Classical music lovers put the Vienna Boys' Choir at the top of their Austrian itinerary. Photo / Brett Phibbs

Classical music lovers put the Vienna Boys' Choir at the top of their Austrian itinerary. Photo / Brett Phibbs

In October I will be visiting a friend in the Ticino region of Switzerland. I'm keen to spend a week in a bordering country, though I've already been to France, Italy and Germany. Can you recommend a good one-week itinerary to take in all the highlights of Austria?
- Phil Crosby

Austria is certainly worth taking at least a week to explore. Expect snow-capped peaks, verdant valleys, graceful old cities, quaint rural villages and a cultural reservoir to rival those of Italy, Germany and France. You'll need a couple of days exploring the elegant streets of Vienna, making sure you visit the Hapsburg palaces and the unfathomable Kunst Haus Wien. Maybe even take in a performance by the Vienna Boys' Choir while you're there.

Then make your way to the Salzkammergut, Austria's Lakes District. This picture-perfect wonderland of glassy blue lakes and craggy peaks offers great hikes, boating, swimming or just an opportunity to sit on the shores admiring its beauty. Hallstatt and St Wolfgang are two must-see towns, while Bad Ischl is the place to go if spa resorts are your thing.

Then head to the baroque city of Salzburg. It may seem like every other tourist in Europe is there with you, but this city still has great charm and is worth a visit. Once Salzburg was famous for Mozart; now it's famous for Mozart's Balls (of the chocolate kind, that is).

For Tyrolean culture, cuisine and architecture, you can't go past Innsbruck. The medieval Old Town is ideal for a lazy stroll, but this city also has a kind of meatiness that makes you want to delve deeper and explore its night culture. See what's on at the Treibhaus, or club the night away at Couch Club.

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Baggage for beginners

I'll shortly be heading off on my first extended trip to Europe (two months) and I've decided to try and pack as light as possible. I'll be doing a fair bit of country-hopping and don't want to be dragging a heavy suitcase around with me (I'm 63 so a late bloomer as far as solo travelling goes). Any tips on best practices for travelling light would be much appreciated.
Margaret Anderson

Ideally, a backpack or shoulder bag that can be squeezed on as cabin luggage is the best way to go. A smaller carry-on size case with wheels and pull-out handle would be perfect if you can pack lightly enough, but if you'd prefer to take a suitcase, make sure it has wheels.

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To help you choose what to pack, keep in mind that wearing several layers of light clothing provides more warmth than a single thick layer, so leave those bulky jumpers at home. It also gives you more flexibility if the weather turns warm. Wash your clothing as you go, and leave at least a quarter of your bag empty for purchases. A quick rundown of what to pack could include: underwear, a couple of T-shirts, one or two blouses, a pair of trousers and a skirt, cardigan/jumper, a foldable sunhat, walking shoes and sandals, a raincoat with a hood or an umbrella, and a scarf.

Non-clothing essentials would include some cash, a credit or debit card, photocopies of your travel documents, a padlock, a day pack - which ideally can be attached to your carry-on bag - some Ziploc plastic bags, safety pins, sewing kit, earplugs, sunglasses, clothes line, travel-size toothpaste, shampoo and soap etc, sun block, laundry soap, a universal sink plug, a product to help combat jetlag, bandaids, a charger for your mobile phone, camera and/or computer, an adapter, batteries, alarm clock and, perhaps, a calculator.

It's a good idea to do a trial pack, then check each item and ask yourself if it's really necessary.

While packing, keep in mind that you'll need to transfer any liquids or gels into a 100ml container or smaller in carry-on luggage for flights. Such liquids include perfume, cosmetics, creams, toothpaste, sun cream, deodorants and shampoo. The containers need to be carried in a transparent, resealable 1-litre capacity plastic bag measuring around 20cm by 20cm. Nail scissors and razor blades are not allowed in cabin luggage.

Medieval theme on menu

I am having an extended stay with friends in the UK in August and plan to fly to Portugal to spend two weeks there. What do you suggest would be a good itinerary?
Maryana Volkus

Allow three days to stroll the hilly maze of lanes that is Lisbon. Make sure you include a night of fado (songs) in the ancient Alfama district. A trip to the Belem quarter is also a must; immerse yourself in Portugal's Golden Age here and see Lisbon's most emblematic religious building, Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

Sintra, less than an hour from Lisbon, is a twinkling tiara of stunning palaces and manors surrounded by lush countryside. It's best appreciated at dusk when the coach tours have left, so try to spend a night here. Nearby Obidos is an exquisite walled village that was a wedding gift from Dom Dinis to his wife, Dona Isabel.

Then carry on to Porto in the north, Portugal's second-largest city. This lively place has a gritty old quarter and a tangible sense of history, with medieval churches, museums and countless eateries and cafes. This is the place to enjoy a tipple at the port lodges on the river. To see some of the most stunning scenery in the country, make your way to Parque Nacional da Peneda-Geres in the far north. There are plenty of hiking trails and camping spots here. The park's main centre is at Caldas do Geres, a sleepy hot-spring village.

Moving south again to central Portugal, you'll want to spend a couple of days in Unesco-listed Evora, home to medieval narrow alleys juxtaposed with opulent mansions and palaces. This is just the backdrop, however, to a lively student town that's surrounded by wineries and dramatic countryside.

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Unless you feel you've overdosed on all things medieval by now, make the short trip to Monsaraz, a magical hilltop town with magnificent views. Nearby is Menhir de Outeiro, one of the tallest megalithic monuments ever discovered.

Finish up with a few days of pure relaxation in the Algarve, a holiday-brochure heaven with superb beaches in the country's far south. If the development on the coast is too much, move inland a little to enjoy the forested slopes of Monchique, the fortified village of Silves and the windswept, historic Sagres.

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