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Home / Travel

Ask Lonely Planet: Scouting sleep options on the Silk Road

NZ Herald
9 Jul, 2010 04:00 PM5 mins to read

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Pay a visit to the famous Terracotta Army upon entering Xian along the Silk Road. Photo / Jim Eagles
Pay a visit to the famous Terracotta Army upon entering Xian along the Silk Road. Photo / Jim Eagles

Pay a visit to the famous Terracotta Army upon entering Xian along the Silk Road. Photo / Jim Eagles

In September/October I am planning to travel in China: Beijing, Xian, Dunhuang, Turpan, Kuqa, Kashgar, Tashkurgan, Kashgar, Hotan and Urumqui by train and bus, then return flight to Beijing. In general I will be staying in three-star hotels and I understand there is often a good discount for face-to-face, over-the-counter purchase of accommodation. This would mean not booking ahead, but hoping that there are vacancies. Some of these smaller centres have only two or three hotels that accept foreign travellers so I wonder what your advice would be re booking ahead versus possible discounts over the counter. The second option also means carrying a relatively large sum of money in cash as many of these hotels do not have credit card facilities.
- Jackie Addenbrooke


Christopher Pitts, co-author of Lonely Planet China, writes:

Sounds like a great trip. The Silk Road is a fantastic way to become acquainted with China's ancient history and diverse ethnic groups and landscapes. Autumn is certainly the best time to visit the northwest but, you should remember, it is high season. However, this autumn will probably be slower than usual as a result of last year's unrest in Xinjiang.

As far as hotels in China go, you should always book ahead for the big cities - in this case Beijing and Xian. It's way too much of a hassle to show up without a reservation in such places, and, in any case, you can probably find some decent discounts online.

Your other destinations are a different matter. Discounts in mid-range and top-end hotels are very common, and, if travel to Xinjiang does wind up being slower this year, you may be able to find some very good deals. As you said, you won't be able to use a credit card, though you can use certain ATMs in Dunhuang, Urumqi and Kashgar, so you can always make withdrawals in these strategic spots which will reduce the overall amount of cash you need to carry. Travellers' cheques are also a reasonable alternative in Xinjiang, and it may not be a bad idea to carry some as an emergency backup even if you plan on using your bank card the whole time.

When scouting around for a hotel, remember that many mid-range options in China aren't always in great condition, and you absolutely should look at the rooms first before you decide to stay. If business is slow, some places may offer you another discount on top of the advertised one - it doesn't hurt to try and negotiate. Also keep in mind that many hotels in this region won't accept foreigners, so in smaller towns your choices will probably be limited.

A final note: travel to Xinjiang is much more restricted than other places in China. Because of last year's ethnic unrest, at the moment there is essentially no internet access in the province (ie, no email) and international phone communication was only restored two months ago. Make sure to check the Thorn Tree for the latest updates before you go and to share useful information with the other travellers while on the road. And have fun.

Fly Australia's east coast

After retiring from work in the UK we are visiting my sister and her husband who live in Auckland. This is our first visit to New Zealand and after a month-long driving tour around the South Island, which we thought was absolutely wonderful, we are moving on to Australia. We have already booked our flights between Sydney, Uluru, Cairns and Brisbane. After driving 4000km in 30 days in the South Island, we would like to get from Brisbane to Sydney via public transport where we catch our next flight to Los Angeles. Are you able to provide us with information regarding the availability of public transport on this route and which is the best method?
- Jane & Steve Holmes


Lonely Planet's Asia-Pacific travel editor Shawn Low writes:

To be honest, if you're prepared to search for them you can get some superb deals on flying. Check the usual assortment of budget airlines that ply the Brisbane to Sydney route. These airlines include Jetstar and Virgin Blue. Also look out for Qantas Red E-deals on their website for near-budget airline prices. The flight time is just over an hour.

If you don't want to fly, the train is also a good option. There's a daily Countrylink XPT train from Brisbane's Roma St station to Sydney Central station. You depart in the morning and arrive in Sydney in the evening (14 hours total). Book tickets at countrylink.info.

It all depends on whether you prefer trains to planes.

If time is of the essence, a flight would be the way to go. If you can afford to take your time and want to see more of the countryside then go by train.

Win a Lonely Planet guide book

Get the information you need to make your big trip a success. Email your travel questions to travel.info@lonelyplanet.com and they'll be
answered by Lonely Planet's experts. In addition the best question each week will earn a Lonely Planet guide book. To give yourself a chance to win, add your postal address and the guide book you'd like to receive. You can find out about Lonely Planet books at LonelyPlanet.com. Not all questions are necessarily answered and Lonely Planet cannot correspond directly with readers, or give advice outside the column.

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