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Home / Travel

Ask Lonely Planet: Fiesta of culture, colour and coast

NZ Herald
13 Nov, 2009 03:00 PM5 mins to read

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My partner and I would like to head to Mexico end of May 2010. We have about three weeks at the end of a Europe trip and ideally would fly into LA to visit a friend. We were wondering if there would be a couple of route options, perhaps from Mexico City, that would encompass a bit of a cultural experience and also some beach time, which we love.
Nick Kemplen


Here are two options you might consider: this first option begins in the centre of Mexico and continues south, through Oaxaca and Chiapas states - with indigenous populations, pre-Hispanic ruins and dramatic scenery - to the ancient Mayan cities and Caribbean beaches of the Yucata'n Peninsula.

Start your trip by exploring fascinating Mexico City, including a visit to the awesome pyramids of Teotihuaca'n. Then head east to colonial Puebla before crossing the mountains southward to Oaxaca, a lovely colonial city with Mexico's finest handicrafts at the heart of a beautiful region with a large indigenous population, and the ancient Zapotec capital, Monte Alba'n.

Cross the Sierra Madre del Sur to one of the sun-baked beach spots on the Oaxaca coast, such as Puerto Escondido, Mazunte or Zipolite. Then move east to San Cristo'bal de Las Casas, a beautiful highland town surrounded by indigenous villages, the lovely jungle lake Laguna Miramar and Palenque, perhaps the most stunning of all Mayan cities, with a backdrop of emerald-green jungle.

Head northeast to colonial Me'rida, the Yucata'n Peninsula's cultural capital and the base for visiting the fine Maya ruins of Uxmal and those along the Ruta Puuc. Next stop is Chiche'n Itza', the Yucata'n's most awesome ancient Mayan site. From there, head to Tulum on the Caribbean coast, a Maya site with a glorious beachside setting, and then make your way northward along the Riviera Maya toward Mexico's glitziest resort, Cancu'n.

On the way, halt at hip Playa del Carmen and take a side trip to Cozumel for world-class snorkelling and diving.

If you plan on driving, the second option forms the route of an all-time classic Mexican road trip, along the Transpeninsular Highway from the Mexico-US border to Los Cabos - but you will forego Mexico City.

This 1800km trip along the world's second longest peninsula will take you from surf beaches to colonial missions, across cactus-strewn deserts and into waters teeming with spectacular marine life and will fit nicely into three weeks.

Start off by getting a feel for the famous border buzz of Tijuana. Next, head down to sample the surf and wines of Ensenada before moving south to watch the whales from close quarters on Laguna Ojo de Liebre. Cross the Vizcai'no desert to the leafy oasis of San Ignacio and check out the ancient rock art of the Sierra de San Francisco. Follow this up by hitting the Sea of Cortez for diving or kayaking in the waters off either Mulege' or Loreto.

Further south, cosmopolitan La Paz provides access to beaches and the marine life of La Ventana. Try snorkelling or diving the coral reef of uncrowded Cabo Pulmo before hitting the towns of Los Cabos at the foot of the peninsula - the tranquil San Jose' del Cabo and the frenetic party scene of Cabo San Lucas. Slip away to artsy Todos Santos for a change of pace.

Day trips from Nice
I will have four days to myself in Nice next April while my husband attends a conference there. What day trips could I do, apart from boarding bus full of other tourists, that would help me see the nicest spots either on the coast or inland? I speak French so it would be nice to meet locals.
Juliet McArthur


You'll need a day in Nice to admire the city's superb Promenade des Anglais and numerous good museums, and get lost in the back streets of the old city, Vieux Nice. But don't linger too long: there are rewarding trips radiating out in every direction from Nice. The mountain railway operated by Chemins de Fer de la Provence offers a scenic trip to the spa town of Digne-les-Bains. This four-hour journey is a big ask for a day trip so you may want to hop out at the lovely Puget-Theniers for lunch at the Edelweiss restaurant. This train leaves Nice from a different station to other services. The mountain train leaves from the Gare du Sud.

Heading east from Nice, the coast as far as Menton is magnificent, and there's no need for a hire car. Public transport is frequent, cheap and gives access to some marvellous spots all along the seafront.

The Nice to Ventimiglia train and bus number 100 runs every 20 and 15 minutes respectively all day and call at show-stoppers like Villefrance-sur-Mer and the belle époque resort of Beaulieu-sur-Mer. If you're around on a Friday the astonishing market at Ventimiglia, over the border in Italy, is quite a sight.

One area you will need a car to explore is the Grand Corniche, the high road out of Nice which leads to quaint villages like La Corbie, Peille - a remarkably intact hilltop village - and Coaraze. Great restaurants line the hair-raisingly twisty and hilly roads.

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