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Home / Travel

Ask Lonely Planet: Explore Bordeaux's beauty by bike

NZ Herald
22 May, 2009 04:00 PM4 mins to read

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Immerse yourself in the varied cuisines Hong Kong has to offer. Photo / Supplied

Immerse yourself in the varied cuisines Hong Kong has to offer. Photo / Supplied

My partner and I are travelling to France in June and are keen to cycle from Bordeaux to Cahors. Where can we hire touring bikes, and any suggestions for must-see sights?
Sue Clark


As you cycle from Bordeaux you'll find the rolling hills of the wine country giving way to deep river gorges and high plateaus. The Atlantic Coast, too, offers some great riding, with magnificent beaches and expanses of pine forest.

In Bordeaux, sort out your equipment at any one of the 18 or so bike shops, such as Cycles Pasteur (42 cours Pasteur), near Place de la Victoire, or Cyclo Urbain. Expect to pay around $40/120 per day/week for bike hire. The Librairie Mollat (15 Rue Vital Carles) has a great selection of maps and guides for cyclists.

Towns along the way all offer accommodation, from camping to hotels, though smaller villages will have only a couple of B&B-type options. Lonely Planet's Cycling France includes details of places to stay and things to see en route.

One of the first places you'll come to after leaving Bordeaux is the medieval town of St Emilion, which overlooks the Dordogne River valley. Further west, Les Eyzies de Tayac is surrounded by prehistoric sites. The route then mostly meanders by the Vezere River, with hilly sections as it negotiates the cliffs or travels inland.

The beautifully restored town of Sarlat-la-Caneda features more heritage-listed buildings per square kilometre than any other European city. Between Sarlat and Vitrac-Port are the Chateau de Castelnaud, a classic cliff-top castle, and the fairy-tale Renaissance Chateau des Milandes. Near Cahors is St-Cirq Lapopie, which is classified as a historic monument with its cobbled alleyways lined with stone and half-timbered houses.

Passion for travel
We wish to attend the Oberammergau Passion Play in Germany in May or June next year. Is it possible to travel there independently and stay with a family?
Myra Wooderson


About 100km southwest of Munich is Oberammergau, a beautiful village surrounded by mountains and forest and crammed with highly decorative painted house facades. This town is a paradox of genuine piety and religious kitsch; its streets are full of shops selling religious wood carvings and glass paintings. This tradition harks back to the Middle Ages.

The epic Passion Play, which is performed once every 10 years, dates back to 1634. In 2010 performances will be held daily from May 15 to October 3. Ticket sales begin on April 20.We suggest you go to www.passionplay-oberammergau.com for information on tickets and packages.

It's also possible to buy tickets and arrange accommodation independently. Consult a good travel guide for details on places to stay. Renting a "Privatzimmer" (private room) in someone's home is also possible. The local tourist office (www.oberammergau.de) will be able to help you with rooms in private homes.

Getting to Oberammergau from Munich is very easy. Trains depart from Munich hourly, with a change at Murnau, and cost around $20 one way (1 hours).

Dim sum delights
My wife and I have a two-day stopover in Hong Kong on our way to Europe.We are yum cha addicts - do you have any recommendations?
Matt McGrath


There's no doubt that Hong Kong will give you great pleasure in that department. The act of eating dim sum is referred to as yum cha, literally "to drink tea", as this is what you have with it. The old-style traditional dim sum places don't have a menu. You just stop the waiter and choose something from the cart.

Wander around Central's Lan Kwai Fong and Soho and you're bound to find a place that takes your fancy. The Luk Yu Tea House on Stanley St is for hardcore dim sum eaters only. No English is spoken, trolleys go by like lightning, it's not cheap, but the food is authentic and delicious. Some of the food here may not be what you're used to.

For a more civilised atmosphere but with a great yum cha buzz, try City Hall Maxim's Palace, often cited as the best dim sum restaurant in town. It's in Hong Kong City Hall in Edinburgh Pl. Jump on bus 13. Yung Kee Restaurant at 32 Wellington St (MTR Central, exit D2) is a long-standing institution and has excellent dim sum from 2pm to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday and 11am to 5.30pm Sunday.

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