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Home / Travel

Argentina: The beautiful game

By Rob McFarland
Herald on Sunday·
24 Feb, 2008 07:00 PM4 mins to read

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Argentinian football fans are some of the most passionate in the world. Photo / Rob McFarland

Argentinian football fans are some of the most passionate in the world. Photo / Rob McFarland

Rob McFarland embraces the mania of a Buenos Aires football crowd.

KEY POINTS:

When I ask Barney, our Argentinian guide, which football team he supports, his voice takes on a low, serious tone.

"Normally I support Boca Juniors," he replies, looking round conspiratorially, "but tonight I will support the local team, Velez."

After I jokingly suggest I'm going to cheer for Sport Club Internacional, their Brazilian opponents, a look of horror crosses his face, and, for a moment, I think he might throw me off the bus.

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Clearly, "futbol" is not a subject to be joked about in this part of the world. The beautiful game is by far the most popular sport in South America and Argentinian fans are some of the most passionate in the world. Teams are supported with a religious-like fervour and to stand on the terraces cheering alongside the locals is an exhilarating experience.

Argentinian tour companies such as Tangol offer football tours in Buenos Aires including admission and transport, but, if your Spanish is good, you can simply hop in a cab and buy a ticket at the turnstiles.

While it's not vital to understand the complexities of the Argentinian league system, it is worth knowing that the 20 first-division teams play in two tournaments each year, which run from July to December and February to July.

There are also international competitions, such as the annual Copa Libertadores, in which teams from all over South America compete.

The match we had tickets for was a Libertadores game and one that carried particular significance given that the local team, Club Atletico Velez Sarsfield (or Velez, for short), were taking on the Brazilian champions, Sport Club Internacional.

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As a tourist, it's recommended you get a ticket for the "platea" (seated section) as opposed to the more rowdy "entradas populares" (terrace), where the local supporters hang out.

Despite a torrential downpour that had lasted all afternoon, the entradas populares was already packed and in full voice when we arrived, with people dancing and singing. Ten minutes later, an entire band assembled in the middle of the stand and started a drumming accompaniment that didn't falter for the duration of the game.

After the referees were escorted on to the pitch by two riot police (clearly, not popular men), play got under way at 7.30pm.

Eighteen minutes later, Velez scored their first goal and the whole stadium erupted. Suddenly, everyone jumped out of their seats and started dancing; macho-looking Maradona lookalikes hugged and kissed each other; streamers and bits of torn newspaper filled the air.

I looked across at the populares section and the crowd was moving in one huge mass, jumping up and down in time to the drumming.

An enormous banner of the club's mascot was unfurled and made to dance along with the music. I've never seen a group of people go so crazy.

A second goal came three minutes later and the whole spectacle was repeated again. I became so enthralled with the reactions of the crowd, I stopped watching the game entirely.

Three rows below us, a group of young boys spent most of the second-half tearing up old newspapers in hopeful anticipation of a third goal. Their efforts were finally rewarded in the 81st minute when Velez scored again and they gleefully tossed their handiwork high up into the stand.

When the final whistle blew, Velez had comprehensively beaten their Brazilian opponents 3-0, and, while the game itself had been entertaining, the antics of the crowd were far more captivating.

Even if you think football is about as interesting as a shower curtain conference, I'd still recommend going along for the exuberant atmosphere and the cultural insight.

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Just make sure you know which team to support.

Rob McFarland travelled as a guest of Tucan Travel and Aerolineas Argentinas.

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