Fremantle Markets, dating back to 1897, remain a top tourist draw. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
Fremantle Markets, dating back to 1897, remain a top tourist draw. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
From coffees on the Cappuccino Strip to cocktails in a converted cell block, Fremantle may just be Western Australia’s most delightfully eclectic town, writes Julia D’Orazio
A few weeks ago, a Sydneysider came to visit me in my new home turf, Fremantle, a 30-minute train ride title="https://www.nzherald.co.nz/topic/australia-holidays">south of Perth’s CBD. Knowing he appreciates a “European vibe”, I recommended we meet at Gino’s, a quintessential Italian trattoria along the famed “Cappuccino Strip”. Reinforcing the strip‘s moniker, the four-decades-old institution gilded with homeland memorabilia is perfect for people-watching and soaking in the ambience along the port city’s main thoroughfare. Most importantly, it serves a decent cuppa.
Gino’s is a great introduction to what locals affectionately call Freo. But after a caffeine hit, where to go next? Pick your vibe; Fremantle isn’t short of them. Western Australia‘s European enclave contains the state’s largest concentration of Victorian-era buildings, a colourful tapestry of history, quirky character, and a stellar food and bar scene. While the walkable city continues to evolve amidst heritage sites and shorelines, its eclectic identity and ethos have stayed put. Take it from a local; there is always something to discover – even if you think you know it like the back of your hand.
Firstly, Fremantle’s revered cafe culture doesn’t stop at the Cappuccino strip. Other neighbourhood coffee go-tos include Roasting Warehouse, housed in a former petrol station, Moore & Moore, and Good Things, located opposite the Hougoumont Hotel (more on that later). Plonk yourself on a picnic chair under the watchful gaze of two colourful zebras – one of Fremantle’s most photographed murals – at all-day breakfast hangout Ootong & Lincoln.
For something distinctively Fremantle, explore backstreets and cell blocks in the city’s newly dubbed “Convict Quarter”. In recent times, it has gone from hostile to hospitable with the boutique Warders Hotel and bistros The Old Courthouse, Emily Taylor and the newly opened Moon & Mary housed in 19th-century convict-built structures.
The latter lets guests experience life behind bars with old cell blocks 189 and 996 and prisoner recreation grounds converted into dining rooms. Carved graffiti inscriptions and exposed wall layers give insight into Moon & Mary’s past notorious life. Thankfully, prison catering has changed quite a bit in this century with Asian-fusion share plates such as smoked duck, dumplings, seared Fremantle octopus – a local speciality – and boba-infused cocktails on the menu.
Moon & Mary - DZuks. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
For more jail time, a short stroll away is Fremantle Prison. Built in the mid-19th century, it is Western Australia‘s only Unesco World Heritage building and is one of the largest surviving convict-built prisons worldwide, spanning six hectares in the city’s heart. Within its stately quarried limestone walls, it hosts several prison tours, including its wildly popular after-dark tour. While ghosts are believed to wander its halls, punters are guaranteed a fright from unexpected encounters by torchlight.
Fremantle Prison is the state’s only Unesco World Heritage-listed building. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
A hive of activity
Be amongst humanity again at Fremantle Markets. Established in 1897, the city’s OG tourist attraction is a maze of trinket stalls, souvenirs, and street food vendors. On opposing street corners are the Norfolk Hotel, a beloved beer garden and The Old Synagogue, the once-sacred site now a multi-restaurant and bar venue.
Another crowd-puller is the state’s biggest brewhouse, Gage Roads. Savour a pint in the historical B-Shed and watch cargo ships manoeuvre the harbour. If travelling with young ones, entertain them at FOMO Freo. The new-age social hub, with bowling, mini-golf, arcade games, and axe-throwing all in one, is adjoined with an upmarket food hall.
A great place to shop, snack and bar hop is Fremantle’s West End. High St is the go-to place for independent stores, vintage finds as well as good times with a slew of cafes and late-night options. Lunch hotspots Common Bakery and High on 55 offer affordable eats for under $20.
Come nightfall, moody vinyl bar and restaurant “Ode to Sirens” is just as renowned for its Greek eats as it is for the beats, with live DJ spins and, most recently, intimate gigs. Be transported to Italy, sitting streetside al fresco at trendy pasta and wine bar Vin Populi.
Busker at Fremantle Markets. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
A city of merriment makers
Speaking of wine, there are many places offering tipples made onsite. Far from vineyards, H&C Urban Winery is the first of its kind in the state, endeavouring to demystify the state’s wine scene, producing wines in its century-old warehouse. (Its share plates are some of Fremantle’s best.)
Less than 10 minutes on foot is the Republic of Fremantle on Packenham St. Established by three locals, the sleek distillery features an impressive and gargantuan custom-designed German distiller that engulfs the venue. Take a taste of Fremantle home in a bottle by joining a gin-making class, which includes sampling its gin and vodka range.
Vin Populi. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
Do you prefer distilled spirits? House brews? To borrow a line from the iconic 2000s Old El Paso girl: “Por qué no los dos.” Head to South Fremantle to enjoy the whole she-bang of booze all under one roof at Running with Thieves. The one-stop-shop restaurant, brewery, distillery and bottle shop produces all its rotating beers, gins, vodkas, whiskeys and rum onsite. Double-dip activities by joining a brewery and distillery tour behind the bar, sauntering beer vats, barrels and colossal copper pots to learn how each is crafted and includes guided beer tastings. Missing a taste of home? Its Japanese lager and session ale uses Kiwi hops.
Republic of Fremantle Gin School. Photo / Jarrad Seng
Where the locals unwind
Sticking to where locals rendezvous, save some coin by grabbing a fish and chips takeaway at Sealanes Seafood Market and have a low-key sunset outing at South Beach. Or, for a boujee sundowner affair, visit the Brazilian-inspired venue Madalena‘s Bar & Restaurant. Go upstairs and relish mid-century aesthetics and ocean views. The award-winning venue is the place to linger, indulging in small seafood bites (local sardines on toast, oysters, toothfish belly croquettes) and sipping after-darks (Panic! at the Pisco is a personal favourite).
Madalena's, South Fremantle. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
Circle back to where your Tour de Freo started with a stay at the Hougoumont Hotel. The intimate 37-room boutique hotel is in the thick of all the action, just 90m from Gino’s and offers simple luxe, well-appointed rooms.
While there’s not so much of a view from a state room window, head next door to the hotel’s shipping container nano-brewery, Calamity Rod, where guests can enjoy a complimentary wine and cheese happy hour. The courtyard is a neat spot to unwind after a full day exploring. Another much-welcomed hotel perk is free bike hire, but if you prefer to have a local show you around, Fremantle Bikes offers half-day e-bike tours touring the port city and further afield.
Exterior Hougoumont Hotel offers free bike hire for easy exploring around Fremantle. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
The hotel’s prime location is a winner, with Bathers Beach less than 10 minutes on foot. But for a typical Perth brochure-worthy coastal setting, head to Port Beach, less than a 10-minute drive. Enjoy a refreshing dip, then sweat it all out in a shipping container sauna (Alchemy Sauna) just metres from shore – another glorious and scenic spot to perk yourself up in Fremantle. How good.
