Sail through Alaska’s breathtaking landscapes, spot wildlife and explore charming coastal towns on the Discovery Princess. Photo / 123RF
An Alaska cruise offers stunning scenery, guaranteed nature spotting and unbeatable views both on and off the ship, writes Rebecca Barnes
Wherever there’s spawning salmon in abundance, bears will follow. Alaska has more than its share of brown bears – around 30,000 to be exact – and, while a sighting is on the wish lists of many, when in bear country, common sense is essential as these powerful creatures possess the speed of racehorses and can easily outpace fleeing humans.
“Get ready to use your thumb – if it covers the bear you are safe, if not, you’d better make some plans,” Discovery Princesses’ resident Alaska naturalist Michael Modzelewski shares in a semi-serious tone at one of his onboard talks, where we also learnt that an eagle’s high-definition eyesight enables them to spot an ant on the ground from the height of a 10-storey building.
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Modzelewski, who is known as “The Prince of the Princess ships” (guests are known to only book cruises that he is on), is an encyclopaedic source of Alaska knowledge, and there’s very little he doesn’t know or hasn’t experienced.
A couple of days later, at the Chilkoot Lake State Park in Skagway, we watch transfixed from the safety of our small bus as a family of brown bears – a robust mother and two playful cubs – emerge from the dense forest and amble straight into the Chilkoot river to gorge on pink salmon. It’s a definite bucket list tick with thankfully no digits required.
Princess Cruises has been sailing to Alaska for more than 50 years – in fact, more people choose to cruise with Princess in Alaska than any other line. A coolcation to this dynamic destination also offers the perfect opportunity to add on a pre- or post-cruise stay in one of five departure ports, including Vancouver and Seattle: the Port of Seattle offers around 200 departures each season.
I’m sailing on a seven-night Inside Passage itinerary which calls at Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway, with scenic cruising in Dawes Glacier to Endicott Arm – a narrow fjord located around 50 miles southeast of Juneau – and a stop in Victoria, Canada.
The 3660-passenger Discovery Princess docks downtown in Alaska’s capital, Juneau, which is a very walkable and scenic city with a gold-mining history. It’s also the only state capital in the US that can only be reached by air or sea. We stroll the narrow streets featuring original 19th-century architecture, while other passengers sign up for whale watching and tours to the spectacular Mendenhall Glacier.
Kayaking is also popular, and we brave the weather for some sea kayaking in the vicinity of the Mendenhall Glacier. Conditions aren’t the most favourable, but the rain doesn’t stop some curious seals surfacing just metres from our kayak, as well as a more formidable sea lion.
An Alaska cruise on Discovery Princess is a pretty casual affair: on a typical seven-day itinerary there are usually two dressier evenings. While there’s no pressure to participate, I take the opportunity to make more of an effort when I can, but also enjoy the relaxed vibe of wearing a sweatshirt to dinner.
On this Ocean Medallion-enabled ship, all the signature Princess touches – Movies Under the Stars, the Good Spirits at Sea cocktail experience and the immersive 360 Dining Experience are available to enjoy; there are also a number of restaurants, bars and lounges plus two speciality restaurants – Bistro sur la Mer and Sabatini’s. We also make use of the adult-only lounge area The Sanctuary, along with the Lotus Spa and The Enclave thermal suite.
Mainly accessible by sea, Alaska’s first port city Ketchikan is located at the southernmost entrance to the Inside Passage. Known for its diverse scenery, rich native culture and totem poles, highlights include the Tongass National Forest, the salmon-rich Ketchikan Creek and lumberjack shows.
“We’re going to find some critters!” our boat skipper Terry from Texas declares, as we set off from the port towards Annette Island on a Wildlife Safari Cruise and Beach Bonfire excursion. We scan the horizon, and soon enough spot harbour seals and a few humpback whales in Nichols Passage.
Terry tells us that Ketchikan has a reputation for being the fourth wettest place in the world, and as we approach Annette Island, the heavens open as if on cue. I playfully scold our skipper for tempting fate, although any downpour is unlikely to dampen our spirits as we toast marshmallows and devour s’mores in front of our toasty, tarpaulin-covered bonfire.
I’m not particularly fond of early starts, but a heads up from Modzelewski ensures we set our alarm for 5am the following morning and order breakfast in the room, so we don’t miss the dramatic approach to Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier.
Blessed with idyllic weather for the sail in and wrapped up well against the morning chill on our stateroom balcony, our sleepy heads are soon a distant memory as we nibble on fresh pastries and fruit while our ship drifts past lazy seals on ice floes, and the light changes as dawn shifts into a new day.
We switch on the TV to hear Modzelewski’s fascinating commentary on the ship cam channel, and the captain skilfully manoeuvres a 360-degree turn so everyone gets a great view of Dawes Glacier. It’s simply the most energising way to start the day, and we top it off by drinking steaming hot chocolate on the top deck while at anchor in Endicott Arm.
When we’re not at sea taking in the undeniably stunning scenery, our Alaska cruise involves even more exploration ashore. Skagway, which is located in the Inside Passage and famed for the vintage trains operating along the steep White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad, is also known for dog sledding and salmon runs. Wildlife fans wanting to see bears, harbour seals and bald eagles, can follow our lead and sign up for a small group trip to Chilkoot Lake State Park.
Having visited briefly once before, I’m a big fan of Victoria, which is located on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, off Canada’s Pacific coast. Known as the “Garden City” thanks to its green spaces, it’s a definite change of pace to Alaska’s frozen landscapes, but nevertheless not to be overlooked.
Whether you’re into history, sightseeing or integrating with the Victorians, there’s lots to see and do for all ages, including the verdant Butchart Gardens, Craigdarroch Castle and Royal BC Museum. We dock just before sunset and enjoy strolling around quirky Fisherman’s Wharf which is walkable from the port, ogling the vintage cars driven by the locals, and exploring the city on foot before grabbing dinner downtown.
I didn’t know quite what to expect from Alaska on a ship the size of Discovery Princess, but the intimate and immersive experience has definitely whet my appetite for more adventures in this super-cool destination.
The 7-night Inside Passage cruise, roundtrip Seattle, onboard Discovery Princess calls in at Ketchikan, Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier (scenic cruising), Juneau, Skagway and Victoria.
Find out more at princess.com
The first new ship to service Cook Strait is expected to arrive in February 2029.