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Home / Travel

Alternative destinations: In West Iceland, take the glacier less traveled

By Danielle Braff
Washington Post·
9 Feb, 2019 01:00 AM3 mins to read

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A glacial ice cave in the Skaftafell National Park, Iceland. Photo / Getty Images

A glacial ice cave in the Skaftafell National Park, Iceland. Photo / Getty Images

Offering alternatives to overcrowded destinations: You can explore a cave, go into a glacier, sit in a geothermal bath and more in West Iceland.

In Reykjavik, scarce lagoon tickets, crawling traffic and booked restaurants.

Iceland has become the coldest tourism hot spot - and for good reason. A relatively easy flight from practically anywhere in the United States deposits passengers a short drive away from the Blue Lagoon; an hour later, you can be neck-deep in the lava field's natural geothermal spa.

A woman floats in the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa which is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland. Photo /  Jabin Botsford
A woman floats in the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa which is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland. Photo / Jabin Botsford

The Golden Circle is another must-do. It's about a 300km loop from Reykjavik to the center of Iceland and back. Visitors pass through glorious landscapes that include molten lava eruptions and some of the most spectacular waterfalls before returning to a once relatively quiet capital city now booming with restaurants, souvenir shops, museums and bars.

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While it's still possible to find spots in Iceland that look like a mural, its go-to destinations are often overcrowded. Tickets for the Blue Lagoon are frequently sold out. The Golden Circle has become so tourist-ridden that you can simply follow the slow-moving buses rather than use GPS. And if you dare enter a Reykjavik restaurant without a reservation, you'd better be dining at 4pm If you prefer the road less traveled, go here during the less popular winter months (though it's cold and dark) or make your reservations early.

The Blue Lagoon is one of the most popular attraction in Iceland. Tickets are frequently sold out. Photo / Jabin Botsford
The Blue Lagoon is one of the most popular attraction in Iceland. Tickets are frequently sold out. Photo / Jabin Botsford

In West Iceland, a lava tube, glacial cave, geothermal pool and more.

Remarkably, however, you can experience geothermal saunas, glaciers, caves and more after driving about an hour northwest from Reykjavik to a portion of the country that seems virtually untouched by tourists: the region known as West Iceland.

The water flowing into Krauma, a geothermal bath in Reykholt, arrives directly from the smallest glacier in Iceland before being dispersed into five baths of varying temperature. (Only true Icelanders could dip more than their toes in the hottest of the baths.) If you go midweek, you may be the only people here.

The sun starts to set after midnight in the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, home to the Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum. Photo / Karly Domb Sadof
The sun starts to set after midnight in the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, home to the Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum. Photo / Karly Domb Sadof

Vatnshellir Cave, within Snaefellsjokull National Park, offers guided tours of an 8000-year-old, below-the-surface lava cave. After descending in a spiral, wearing a provided helmet and headlamp, you'll feel like you've entered a different planet. (Pro tip: Although it may have been warm enough for a fugitive couple to allegedly live there comfortably centuries ago, it's now bitterly cold in winter, so dress appropriately.)

If you take the Into the Glacier tour, which departs from Husafell or the Klaki base camp, depending on the season, you'll ride in a ridiculously large vehicle - or atop a snowmobile - to Iceland's second-largest glacier, Langjokull. Then, you'll enter a minuscule opening into a magnificent ice cave, complete with an ice bar and an ice chapel. Yes, you can get married here.

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Learn about fermented shark meat at the Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum. Photo / Getty Images
Learn about fermented shark meat at the Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum. Photo / Getty Images

West Iceland also offers the only full sheep farm in the country: At remote Bjarteyjarsandur, visitors can herd sheep (traditionally, children race after the animals while adults sip whiskey and watch), shear sheep, pick wild mussels and do other chores, depending on the season. Guests can stay at one of four on-site mountain cottages, as well as inside the farmhouse with the owners, and experience a true farm-to table meal at the farm's tiny restaurant.

Another only-in-West-Iceland experience is the Bjarnarhofn Shark Museum in the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, where you can learn all about fermented shark meat, a traditional Icelandic dish, and sample it along with Iceland's signature spirit - Brennivín schnapps.

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