The Murray Art Museum Albury has an historic facade but inside exhibits risky and modern art. Photo / Supplied.
Sarah Downs discovers a rural cultural hotspot in Albury, NSW
I'll admit, the first thing that felt appropriate walking down Albury's main drag — a regional city in southern New South Wales next to the Murray River — was to plug Lil Nas X's twangy banger Old Town Road.
It's town centre looked a bit Invercargill-chic (used endearingly) and rather quaint after a glitzy stint in Sydney's urban sprawl which I'd left behind after a snappy descent into Albury's teeny airport. Let's just say the mob of early diners making a beeline for the Commercial Club's Friday buffet didn't help the case of feeling rather youthful.
For years this riverside city has been seen as little more as a pit-stop for motorists making the long trek between Sydney and Melbourne. You can drive from the latter in just over three hours, and it's nearly six hours to Sydney. Or you can fly in just 90 minutes.
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What I soon discovered, however, after an initial hasty judgment, was a place shaking off that much-maligned "old town" stereotype with plenty of bright, modern attractions dotted throughout a spacious, country setting. So really, as Lil Nas X sang, it's like a "cowboy hat from Gucci".
HEY MAMA
Albury's shiniest new drawcard is The Murray Art Museum Albury.
Fronting QEII Square on Dean St, the museum, known as MAMA, had a $10.5 million makeover in 2015 transforming the original gallery, an 1860s Lands Office and its 1908 Town Hall, into a spectacular light-filled extension. There are now 10 eco-friendly indoor and outdoor gallery spaces.
Much as the Bendigo Art Gallery in Victoria helped raise the city's cultural profile (now one of Australia's most popular galleries) it's hoped MAMA's revamp is enticing visitors towards a longer stay.
Like everything in MAMA, it is contemporary, with a focus on risk-taking exhibitions and emerging artists. The annual MAMA Art Prize, for regional artists, accounts for most of the pieces in their permanent collection.
When I visit, an installation by Brisbane artist Archie Moore is on display in the lofty foyer. The work Friendship comprises a monstrous black weave hanging from the ceiling and a blood red "X" painted on the marble floor. Jeepers.
MAMA also has a strong photography section, with over 600 works dating back to the 1960s and holds the biennial MAMA Art Foundation National Photography Prize; one of Australia's longest-running celebrations of photography.
Beyond MAMA is the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk, a 5km track along the mighty Murray River with installations and sculptures from the local Wiradjuri people. With artworks such as The Bigger Picture by Katrina Weston and Bogong Moth Migration by Ruth Davys framed by the breathtaking river scenery, it's easy to see why this meeting of indigenous culture and nature (you can walk or cycle the trail) is a top pick for the area.
TOP FLOOR
A hotel that complements an arty experience is Atura Albury, where communal spaces feature funky decor and bright pops of colour. With rooms from $140 a night, the hotel is Albury's tallest building — at seven-storeys — and is on Dean St right in the town centre, within walking distance of MAMA and the Botanic Gardens.
To be honest, I'm not so taken by the yellow splodge murals in my room or inflatable pink cow living in the pool. The complimentary retro bikes, a downstairs bar and restaurant, free Wi-Fi and proximity to the main street are what sell a supremely comfortable stay.
Atura's Roadhouse Bar and Grill restaurant on the ground floor is popular with locals and offers steaks, burgers, and hearty pub fare, There's also a full cocktail menu.
ON YOUR BIKE
Albury is home to over 40km of on-and-off-road trails that snake around the city and along the Murray. For adrenaline seekers, the Wagirra Trail has some of Australia's best mountain bike tracks, and a bike and a guide from Albury's Fastline Bikademy will set you up nicely.
Or stay on two legs and hike up Monument Hill, the city's war memorial, for great views across the city. The Botanic Gardens, established more than 130 years ago, is worth a visit. Surrounded by vibrant florals, it's a leisurely spot to read for an hour on a sunny day.
For a brush-up on history, try the Albury historic walking tour app. The two-hour tour shows off 21 sites, all built during the area's rich, pioneering history (it was once a contender for the national capital), with some fine turn-of-the-century architecture to take in. One of the highlights of the tour is a visit to the Albury Railway Station, a covered platform, and one of the longest in Australia.
FILL YOUR PLATE
It's not just a cultural boom that Albury is experiencing. The food and wine scene is just as inviting and it's worth visiting for a couple of days of decadence alone.
The choice ranges from Tim Tehan's Canvas Eatery — a bright space at the back of MAMA that delivers epic brunch and laid-back evening dining; to Alex Smit's River Deck Cafe, which nestles proudly on the Murray River and sends out Michelin star-worthy meals.
Bistro Selle is a must for dinner — the first joint project from dynamic hospitality duo head chef Tara Davies and owner Matthew Fuller. The cosy space on Olive St heroes pristine Australian produce and isn't afraid to push boundaries — crispy tripe is a signature and delicious.
The wine list includes an array of local, national and international drops. If you can't decide Matt will come back with something near perfect from his "sneaky cellar" the floor below.
Also check out Mr Benedict cafe for house-made kombucha, Nord Bakery for freshly-baked Scandi treats and The Essential Ingredient for local artisanal food, cookware, kitchen equipment and more.
GETTING THERE
Qantas flies direct to Albury year-round from Sydney or Melbourne. Return from $250-$400.
STAYING THERE
Atura Albury
aturahotels.com
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