Caves and Crocs
Where better to show an Italian visitor the sights of 'real' Queensland than good old Rockhampton? One thing I did not foresee was just how much time we'd be spending underground.
After a quick dash around town, we decided to visit the Capricorn Caves, just 40 minutes drive from the city. Now, I've done some caves in my day - caves in Thailand, caves in Malaysia, caves in New Zealand. How good could these be?
Well, it brought me to tears, that's how good. The sheer beauty of sitting in the candlelit 'cathedral cave', with piped opera subtly setting the acoustic feelgood factor was too much, and out came the waterworks. I was pleased to see a burly footy player on our guided tour was equally moved.
These ancient caves have been attracting visitors since their discovery by John Olsen in 1882. He stumbled across the entrance and, after exploring solo for a few years, decided to invite a few friends up. Word spread like wildfire, and one of Queensland's first adventure tourism attractions was born - daintily attired women in their long frocks, accompanied by their equally resplendent menfolk, would trudge up to the cave site, then wade through centuries worth of bat poo just to experience the wonders hidden inside the limestone ridge.
Today, these are the only privately owned show caves on freehold land in Australia. Ken and Ann Augusteyn took over ownership of the caverns from the descendants of John Olsen.
Unlike most cave systems in Australia which are set underground, these caverns are located above ground level in a high limestone ridge and provide a pleasant atmosphere even for the most claustrophobic. The caves are wheelchair accessible, with ramps to the major gallery, Cathedral Cave.
A natural phenomenon occurs in one of the caverns during the Summer Solstice on December 22 each year. Ann Augusteyn explains: "Because the caves are located close to the Tropic of Capricorn, the Sun shines directly overhead at around 11am during the Solstice. Fortunately, there is a natural vertical shaft in the roof of the cave and the rays of the overhead Sun pour through with brilliant effect into the darkened cavern."
The caves are also home to thousands of tiny insectivorous bats. Though their presence is seasonal, visitors fortunate to be there at the right time are entertained by a mass sunset exodus when the bats leave for their nightly feed.
Tours range from easy to wild caving. There is a caravan park, camping and cabin accommodation available on site. Wallabies and other native fauna are plentiful, the bushland tracks are well maintained and there's a host of "orienteering" toys to play with, making this a wonderful alternative for those looking to stay in a perfectly natural, and somewhat unusual, location.
On the way home from the caves, the Italian was keen to see a crocodile (Europeans love to be scared witless) - as luck happened we were just in time to catch John Leaver's tour of his Koorana Crocodile Farm.
John and his wife Lillian came to Rocky after he'd spent years working in PNG. He learned much, he says, from the local people there about the treatment and respect of these creatures so, upon returning to Australia, established the farm which operates as a commercial enterprise.
Although a conservationist to his bootstraps, John believes one of the best ways to ensure a safe future for these ancient creatures is to keep them commercially viable - he breeds and harvests crocs but, at the same time, runs an entertaining and informative tour operation. Farming and conservation of crocs can, according to John, go hand in hand. Education is the key message on his tours.
Still, there's enough snapping, jumping and close-up hand feeding to keep everyone gasping. You get to hold a baby croc, see hatchlings and walk through the enclosure, safe enough yet close enough to bring some real thrills.
Back in town, we decide to pay a late afternoon visit to the Rockhampton Botanic Gardens and Zoo - a free attraction on the edge of a huge lake which is truly serene. After a quick stroll through the zoo, which is a beautifully maintained collection of mostly native and protected animals (koalas, possums, echidnas and so on, with a great reptile collection and aviary), we sit by the lake to watch sunset.
My companion finds a stale pack of biscuits in the car and crumbles them for the ever-increasing array of ducks and waterbirds gathering near shore. She is delighted when a strange head pops up, then another, and another, all after a share - the ducks are joined by some very determined turtles looking for a feed.
She loves it. I don't tell her about the sign just out of site. "Beware, crocodile sighted here." Why spoil a beautiful memory?
By Julie McGlone