A winter's day in London

MEGAN SINGLETON escapes from a grey London day by exploring the city's art galleries and pampering herself.

Memories of dark afternoons, misty rain and freezing temperatures make it hard to imagine why so many Kiwis want to live in London.

Tubing in from Heathrow on a grey day, my first thought was not "get me to Oxford St" or even bemoaning how much I paid for my ticket when I converted it, but that the city could be brightened up with a jolly good water-blast.

But having enjoyed seeing friends, spending my deflated dollar and eating cheap curries, I discovered there was plenty to do despite the climate.

If you're travelling on a budget (as anyone spending the kiwi dollar is), you'll love London's museums and art galleries, many of which are free to enter.

The Tate Modern in the former Bankside Power Station near Blackfriars Bridge has some of the most interesting and outrageous contemporary painting and sculpture from 1900 to present day. Spread over seven floors with themed areas, you should allow three or four hours for a really good look at the works of Picasso, Degas, Bacon, Dali, Rothko and more.

But for something more historical, the little-known Wallace Collection in Hertford House, Manchester Square (behind Selfridges) is home to the finest collection of art assembled by one family in Britain.

Formerly owned by Sir Richard Wallace, the illegitimate son of the 4th Marquess of Hertford, the family built up this 5470-piece collection over 200 years. It is shown in the original family home bequeathed to the nation in 1897 by Sir Richard's widow, Lady Wallace.

Sir Elton John is a trustee of this national museum and its stunning treasures include one of the best collections of French 18th-century painting, porcelain and furniture in the world, along with an array of 17th-century paintings, watercolours and armoury. You can even try on a 400-year-old helmet.

By the time you have roamed the galleries for hours, you'll be dying for a foot massage. These are hard to come by without an appointment, but Nail Haven at Selfridges and Top Shop at Oxford Circus offer a drop-in pamper session.

Send the blokes to the electronics department for an hour and indulge yourself. For £15 ($45) the Xpress Pedicure is worth it. You'll spend between 30 and 45 minutes with your feet soaking in a warm bubbly foot bath while relaxing in the massaging chair. Your toenails will be shaped, buffed and four coats of polish applied, heels exfoliated and feet and calves moisturised.

But plan to do this at the end of the day, as you will be so relaxed you'll want to float home. Top Shop also offers nail art for a night at the theatre, and let's face it, it would be rude to leave London without taking in a West End show.

Instead of forking out £50-plus ($150) for an evening performance, try the cheaper matinee. They may not have the same leads as the evening show, but unless it's Nicole Kidman you've gone to see, it won't make much difference.

For cheap evening tickets, several booths in Leicester Square sell half-price tickets on the day and are worth queuing for, but you have to get there by about 9 am.

If it's decadence you're after, take a black cab to the Ritz on Piccadilly for a fancy afternoon tea, where you can sip your tea to the accompaniment of soft piano music.

Even with three sittings an afternoon, you need to book two weeks in advance for weekdays and a couple of months out for weekends. But the gold, latticed ceiling and ornate art and furniture make it worth popping in for a look.

If you are lucky enough to be seated, £27 ($81) will provide you with a three-tiered cake stand of sandwiches, fresh scones and clotted cream, home-made pastries and, of course, tea or coffee. (It pays not to have eaten all day.)

If the Ritz can't take you, just wander 100m towards Piccadilly Circus and have afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason. It's not quite as posh, but it is a fun way to kill an hour, people-watching.

And at £10 ($30) cheaper for the full afternoon tea, you'll have money to spend on their gorgeous preserves to take home before you wander out into the dark afternoon.

case notes

Tate Modern, Bankside

Admission free, Sunday to Thursday 10 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-10 pm

Phone 44 207 887 8008

The Wallace Collection

Admission free, Monday Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm

Phone 44 207 563 9500


Nail Haven Selfridges

Phone 44 207 318 3401

Nail Haven, Top Shop, Oxford Circus

Phone 44 207 927 0122

Book theatre tickets online at Albemarle of London

Phone 44 207 637 9041

The Ritz

150 Piccadilly

Phone 44 207 493 8181

Fortnum and Mason

181 Piccadilly

Monday to Saturday, 10 am-6.30 pm

Phone 44 207 734 8040