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Home / Travel

A warbird's eye view of Auckland

By Victoria Bartle
NZ Herald·
8 Apr, 2008 03:08 AM6 mins to read

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KEY POINTS:

Flight attendant Lesley Brown's eyes are fair glistening; her grin almost breaking into laughter as she tells 30 scenic flight passengers about her love for "the Dak" - an almost 60-year-old Dakota DC-3 aircraft that has become a familiar sight over Auckland city.

This is an unexpected departure from the usual "what to do if an oxygen mask drops in front of you" speech given to airline passengers (though that does come later).

If Brown's joyful spiel raises a cynical eyebrow anywhere in the cabin, the proof of her passion is in her pay packet: there isn't one.

A flight attendant in the 1960s - when New Zealand's early airline, NAC, had a stable of 29 DC-3s working the skies - she is one of four women working as cabin crew on the Dakota. All of them do the job purely "for the love of it", as do the pilots, co-pilots, engineers and ground staff.

The Dak (as it is fondly known by those who work on board), provides a less-conventional way for international tourists and New Zealanders looking for a little nostalgia, to sight-see from above Auckland and the greater North Island.

Although devotees of such warbirds pale at the suggestion, the Dakota DC-3 is not the most beautiful aircraft to ply our skies.

But take your turn stepping on to the flight deck during one of the Sunday scenic flights, and you'll come back to earth having discovered - or having been reminded - that Auckland has to be one of the most beautiful harbour cities in the world. And the Dakota DC-3 is possibly the best way to see it.

For tourists wanting uninterrupted views, one of the Dakota's best assets is her windscreen, which is like a giant picture window compared with a little aeroplane's cockpit. The scenery unfolds like the Discovery channel on a movie-sized screen.

The flight deck is spacious enough to stand up in, without having to duck. And you could almost feel comfortable pulling up a chair between the pilot and co-pilot - if it wasn't for that bunch of levers and buttons and knowing someone else is waiting their turn.

Whether it's from the flight deck or your passenger seat window, Auckland from this angle is stunning and almost alarmingly close if you're used to flying in on a Boeing 767.

The Dakota is allowed to travel around the city and over the harbour and islands as low as 300m.

It's the difference between looking way down at the buildings, and feeling as though you're looking over towards them; that maybe the crews out practising on the big America's Cup yachts can see your face eagerly pressed up against the window as the Dakota circles around them a couple of times.

Gliding over the houses that hem the cliff-tops around Bucklands Beach, Howick, St Heliers, Herne Bay and the North Shore would make great footage for a documentary on what's behind the gates of the homes of the rich and famous. And then you're out over the sea.

Aucklanders would be struck by just how close Rangitoto Island is to Motutapu Island; how different its volcanic landscape is from the lush, spring-green grass that seems to blanket Motutapu, Motuihe and Browns Islands. This is a great way to get your local geography in perspective.

Throughout the flight - apart from take-off and landing - passengers can walk around, chat with the flight attendant and check the views from various windows, though the seating in relation to the window heights might seem a little odd.

Two abreast on each side of the aisle, the seats originate from a commercial 757, and were fitted to replace the webbing that provided the only furnishings in the Dakota when she was built in 1943 for the United States Army Air Force.

That the windows seem to be set a little lower than on commercial aircraft is really not that obvious (though the modern, patterned upholstery does seem a little at odds with the authentic 1944 D-Day colours on the plane's exterior).

Tall people will automatically hunker down or tilt their heads to take in all the views. Short people will think the set-up was thoughtfully planned just for them.

There's no time for refreshments and snacks during the half-hour flight, but passengers start their adventure with Devonshire teas and coffee in the Warbirds Headquarters at Ardmore Airfield - the home of the Dakota.

While we might never lay eyes on the men or women we trust to pilot us to holidays and business all over the world, the Dakota's crew will more than likely wander across the tarmac with you, taking their seats in the open flight deck, having just shared tea, scones and a chat with their latest passengers.

But don't nervously wonder if this relaxed attitude means these guys fly planes just for a hobby.

The majority of this DC-3's pilots and co-pilots are either employed by, or recently retired from Air New Zealand. Having the know-how to fly big passenger aircraft was their real job. Flying the Dakota on their days off, they make full use of the open flight deck to have fun with the passengers.

While Lesley Brown is giving a compact history of the Dakota, the pilot and co-pilot are getting things started.

Regular implement tests produce sounds remarkably like a bicycle bell and the amusing beep, beep of an impatient Fiat Bambina horn.

The bell is actually a test for the engines' fire warning circuits and the horn is for the undercarriage warning system.

The engines turn over (vaguely reminiscent of Dad's old Hillman) and as the plane begins to move, there's a feeling of pulling something very heavy until it gathers momentum. What has become a familiar rumble to Auckland residents on the ground, is a constant drone in the cabin. It's simpler to concentrate on the stunning views than to bother with conversation.

A tour of the hangar that houses some of the association's historic planes brings an end to the sight-seeing package, and for those who choose to charter the plane, the Dakota's crew can arrange a barbecue breakfast, lunch or dinner.

The Auckland Scenic Flights cost $65 each and $40 for children aged between 3 and 14. There are packages for families and groups.

The Dakota is also available for private or corporate charters, and the pilots will fly to any province for sightseeing and special events.

New Zealand Warbirds

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