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Home / Travel

A tale of two cities (+photos)

By Janetta Mackay, Shandelle Battersby and Janetta Mackay
NZ Herald·
4 Mar, 2008 04:00 PM5 mins to read

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South of Lichfield. Photo / Supplied

South of Lichfield. Photo / Supplied

KEY POINTS:

Planning a few days in Wellington or Christchurch? We've compiled a list of the best things to see and do...

WELLINGTON

Best way to while away the afternoon

The New Dowse Gallery - 45 Laings Rd, Lower Hutt, www.newdowse.org

Only a 15-minute
drive from the central city, Lower Hutt's Dowse Gallery is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of town for a couple of hours.

The gallery was extensively revamped in 2006 and continues its tradition of hosting diverse exhibitions. Viva readers will love the two current shows.

The Wind showcases the highlights and features footage of Issey Miyake's runway show at the Louvre in which a man-made windstorm was whipped up.

A Costura Do Invisivel showcases Brazilian fashion designer Jum Nakao's intricate paper dresses, photographs and film footage from his 2004 Sao Paulo show which culminated in a "shocking paper shred-fest". Both exhibitions run until June 22.

Best place to shop

Make a beeline for the Old Bank Arcade on Lambton Quay which is full of fabulous shops, especially the I Love Paris shoe store with its unique selection of shoes, boots and bags from around the world.

The capital seems to be the place to go for menswear - Cuba St's excellent Mandatory is joined by Wakefield Hotel, and in or around the Old Bank Arcade are Buck's and Dan Carter's Gas.

Best place to grab a coffee

Sorry Auckland but Wellington kicks your butt when it comes to cafes. A few of the places on and around Cuba St take its name literally and have a Cuban theme going on.

Local institution Fidel's is joined by Ernesto and on Courtenay Place you can find Cubita. All are brilliantly decorated and have fabulous food and coffee.

But for something really special, head out of the city to Petone's Go Bang, a cosy little cafe on Jackson St which is cheerily decked out with the finest home decor the 60s and 70s had to offer.

And Sweet Mother's Kitchen, Courtenay Place, has homestyle Creole and Mexican food served by the hippest young things in town.

Best place to pick up something to take home

Stumbling across Madame Fancy Pants on Cuba St was like candy for the eyes. This beautifully decorated store stocks designer clothing, bags, stationery, shoes, jewellery and more from labels like Deadly Ponies, Bim Kenesis, Jessie Tucker, New Kid, Itch Baby, MAW, MoHop and more.

Best place for a cocktail

Oh so many - Wellington also does bars much better than Auckland. The hottest place in town at the moment is Mighty Mighty which is owned by the people who run the excellent Matterhorn (both on Cuba St).

CHRISTCHURCH

Best way to while away the afternoon

Head over the hill to Lyttelton, it's only 20 minutes by car (or regular bus service) through the tunnel or take a longer scenic drive via seaside Sumner.

Very much a working port town, historic cottages line steep streets where Russian and Korean seamen pop into the pubs and shop alongside parochial locals, including a cool alternative set, injecting vitality to a once tired main street.

And there's an excellent Saturday farmers' market, which a friend swears is the best this side of Provence.

Best place to shop

Christchurch is hardly fashion central, but the retail area is stretching out beyond City Mall, snaking through the laneways opening up behind older inner-city buildings.

You can almost imagine you're in a mini-Melbourne in SoL square (that's South of Lichfield) with its mix of bars, cafes and boutiques.

The nearby stretch of High St heading south towards the polytechnic is home to designer stores including Plume and Victoria Black and Lichfield St has Honour and Obey - all three sell an eclectic mix of New Zealand and overseas labels as does Lynn Woods, north of the Square.

Sharon Ng in Barbadoes St is one of the few established Christchurch designers of note, making clothes with an arty edge.

Best place to eat and drink

Christchurch has a varied range of ethnic restaurants that belie the city's population mix. The Burmese Bodhi Tree in Colombo St is a standout: cheap, tasty and unique - anyone for tempura-style whitebait with a hint of lime leaves on spiced mango salad?

Chinwag EatThai in High St is good for a group, modern Thai in modern decor.

SoL square has the retro charm of The Fish and Chip Shop, the jazzy American-style eatery Fat Eddie's, Ishimoto's yakitori bar and Yellow Cross brewbar and pizza joint.

Best place to pick up something to take home

A curio is the way to go, Christchurch being one of the few cities that still has a decent number of second-hand and antique shops in the inner city.

From the legendary Smith's bookshop to a host of retro stores, there's something for everyone.

Vintage Anglepoise lamps were a snip at Chaos which is just a few doors down Manchester St from Smiths. Nearby, Mr Mod specialises in mid-century design.

Best place for a cocktail

Grownups might like Indochine, a modernist office conversion overlooking the Avon, which serves Asian nibbly things and mixes a mean cocktail. But if you're looking for the crowds, bypass the heaving Strip along Oxford St and head back to SoL square afterdark.

If you're lucky you might spot Dan Carter with new Crusaders teammate Ali Williams - Carter's Gas clothes store is here in His Lordship's Lane.

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