A stroll in Seoul

By GRAHAM REID

Many people visiting Korea from New Zealand go for business and don't get time to see much.

Here's a suggested half-day walk in Seoul - afternoon is the best time - for busy business travellers and casual tourists alike, which touches ancient and recent history, some contemporary art, allows you time for a beer and lets you feel the street life. But don't go on a Tuesday because the historic attractions are closed on that day.

Take the subway to Kyongbokkung and when you emerge above ground you will be outside the palace of the same name that was the royal residence for about 200 years in the Middle Ages.

During the Japanese invasion of 1592 most of the 500 buildings were destroyed and for a long period afterwards the palace lay in ruins.

Reconstruction began in the late 1800s but another Japanese invasion and the Korean War of 1950-53 meant few buildings survived. But large parts have now been beautifully reconstructed, and in the same grounds are the National Folk Museum and the famous Blue House, where the president lives (it isn't open to the public and is heavily guarded).

Head out of Kyongbokkung and, keeping the palace grounds to your left, walk to the main intersection (where there is an ancient and photogenic lookout in the triangle of the roads) and cross the road. There is an overbridge on your left. On descending the bridge bear slightly right and on your left is a fascinating street full of art galleries (contemporary and traditional) and art supply shops (the calligraphy brushes make nice presents). Wander to the end - the moneychangers upstairs here give good rates - and you will emerge near T'apkol Park where, on March 1, 1919, patriots and dissidents drew up a Declaration of Independence from the Japanese. Even today it's not uncommon to see anti-Japanese billboards and demonstrations at the park gate ("Made in Japan. No!").

Check out the patriotic friezes in the park and be prepared for old men to come up and chat.

Coming out of T'apkol you will find food stalls (try those chicken or pork kebabs, around $2) and an area where you can sit and have a beer under a tent when they appear around dusk. Or, if you prefer something quieter and more comfortable, look out for signs that read "Coffee and Beer 2F" which means a second floor air-conditioned bar.

Across the road are markets and street vendors, as cheap as anywhere in the city. Buy the leather bags is my tip.

When you've had enough fun you'll find a subway nearby because the line runs directly under this main road.

So, history at the palace, culture in the art street, conversation in the park, then food and a few drinks with friendly people? And all in about four hours. Can't say that about too many places.