A rapid introduction to Finnish watersports

Jennifer Ennion finds exhilaration in Kuhmo's bracing waters.

I stand above the rapids, ready to jump in. The waves peak and dip and charge toward exposed rocks and the concrete pillars of the bridge above.

It's autumn, yet the water is as bracing as you'd expect in Finland. To combat the onset of pneumonia, I'm dressed head to toe in a dry suit, with my head also covered by a neoprene hood, my fingers in gloves and my feet in booties.

I'm also wearing a helmet, in case I hit unavoidable rocks hidden beneath the river's surface. I have faith in my local guide, Urpo Piirainen, but not in myself.

With one foot in Pajakkajoki river, Urpo holds out a hand and coaxes me from the timber boardwalk that travels, for a short while, along the shore.

I step down a few rocks and gingerly lower myself into the water - the chill of which I feel instantly in spite of my seal-like attire.

Then, while lying on my back, I give Urpo a thumbs up and I'm off - floating down rapids in Finland. Water rushes around my limbs and face, pushing me sideways as I travel quickly downstream. I stroke frantically, over-correcting and spinning the opposite way.

Despite my initial trepidation, I can't help but laugh aloud, like the crazy woman I am, floating down a Nordic river in a dry suit.

After a few more frantic strokes, I manage to steer straight, with feet first so to protect the rest of my body from any potential collisions.

Then, as quickly as it began, the end of the boardwalk nears and I again flap about frantically to the shore.

Like a drowned rat, I pull myself out of the water and high-five the few friends who took the plunge ahead of me. Despite our dry suits and copious layers of clothing worn underneath, we stand shivering but with smiles broad. We've just floated down rapids in Scandinavia, and couldn't be happier.

Looking back at the undulating waves from the shore, it's now clear how small they actually are, but still, mission accomplished.

Rapid floating isn't exactly what one thinks of when planning a trip to this far corner of Europe. For Antipodeans, holidays here are centred on seeing the aurora borealis (Northern Lights), visiting reindeer farms and perhaps trying dog sledding. And that is exactly what makes rapid floating so intriguing - it's unusual. Plus, it makes for good dinner-table conversation upon your return home.

Urpo has been operating rapid floating tours in the Kuhmo region, about 40km west of the once-disputed Russian border, since 2001. Groups sizes are mostly small, maxing out at four people, but more often including couples or solo travellers.

Urpo will, however, take groups of up to 10 people on special request. When I ask him why he started such an interesting tourism business, he grins and says: "I like a little bit of adventure and excitement."

That's obvious from the twinkle in his eyes.

We do some more rapid floating, to the bemusement of locals and other tourists, before retiring to a nearby teepee to thaw out. Huddling around a campfire, the handful of us clasp hot cups of cocoa while tapping our toes in an attempt to bring feeling back into them.

We've had a blast but are now eager to return to the comfort of Hotel Kalevala, a high-ceilinged timber building reminiscent of a ski lodge.

That night, we dine on reindeer stew with pickles, lingonberry and mashed potato, and laugh about our escapades, eventually convincing ourselves to head back into the water.

We heat up first in the hotel's saunas and spas, before skipping our way in the cold night to the lake on the hotel's shore.

Once there, we forget about our need for dry suits during the day, and strip down for a skinny dip among friends.

After all, it's the Finnish way.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: From Helsinki, you can take a short flight to Kajaani airport and then a 90-minute drive to Kuhmo.

Staying there: Hotel Kalevala is a large, lodge-style hotel on the shore of Lake Lammasjarvi, in eastern Finland. Rooms are warm and comfortable, and have en suites. There is also a spacious dining room, where traditional Finnish meals and buffet breakfasts are served.

Playing there: To book a rapid floating tour, see wildtaiga.fi, email urpo.piirainen@erapiira.fi, or you can organise one through Hotel Kalevala.

If travelling to wilderness areas in Finland between June and September, be sure to pack a strong insect repellent, as swarms of mosquitoes are common and at their worst in July.

Further information: See visithelsinki.fi and visitfinland.com.

The writer was a guest of Finnair and Visit Finland.

- AAP