Haus Yuriyal’s incredible artwork at The 11th Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art at QAGOMA in Brisbane. Photo / Chloe Callistemon
Love a thriving cultural capital? There are a few reasons you should put this Australian city on your radar.
London, Paris, Milan, New York, Melbourne ... and Brisbane?
One wouldn’t immediately consider the Australian river city as a titan of culture but just one weekend of eye-opening art exhibitions, impeccable dining, and world-class theatre shows is enough to prove it’s up there with the best of them.
And there’s no better time to take the quick three-hour trip across the ditch and experience it yourself right now, with The 11th Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art at the stunning Queensland Gallery of Modern Art (QAGOMA), the perfect excuse to explore all the city has to offer.
Since 1993, the Triennial has drawn more than four million visitors, and it’s pretty clear to see why.
Spanning two of QAGOMA’s striking brutalist buildings, The 11th Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art showcases 70 artists, collective and projects from more than 30 countries in an explosion of colour, texture, and sound. From skulls lined meticulously in morse code, to - and it feels bizarre saying this - a statue of Plato without Plato even being there crafted by Kiwi Zac Langdon-Pole, the exhibit expands your mind through a mix of surprise, delight, and in some cases clever visual trickery.
Another Kiwi, Brett Graham, is front and centre when you walk into the building - his moving sculpture exhibit Tai Moana Tai Tangata occupying the full length of the Long Gallery. Representing the relationship between Taranaki and Tainui Māori and the pact of solidarity they forged during the New Zealand Wars, the exhibit showcases monumental carved sculptures mixing traditional whakairo with British architecture.
An unexpected favourite of mine was Bombay Tilts Down, a work by Mumbai-based art collective CAMP and while I don’t want to spoil it, the blending of CCTV, blaring music and multimedia was both confronting and surreal.
Papua New Guinea collective Haus Yuriyal also created a jaw-dropping display in the second gallery, with their vibrant, colour-soaked “garden” combining traditional designs and materials in order to harness the theme of unity. Travelling with children? No trouble, every gallery has activities and information boards to help little art-lovers engage in the creativity.
Then, just moments down the road, you can continue to broaden your horizons and check out the gallery at wonderful Aboriginal Art Co. This first-nations-owned not-for-profit studio breathes Aboriginal spirit into the surroundings of an old bank vault, a creative space for Indigenous artists to develop, learn and showcase their work.
From traditional work based on the art styles of ancestral lands across Australia to modern takes on traditional techniques, the gallery is proof Brisbane’s Aboriginal art scene is flourishing.
For those who like to get out and about and explore the city, the 90-minute walking tour from the staff at the Museum of Brisbane blends history, art, and local insight into one great package. Our tour guide Brian brings a wealth of knowledge, telling stories about the city’s growth from a brutal penal colony to its thriving music and arts scene. You’ll pass heritage buildings from the 1800s, gorgeous cathedrals, towering skyscrapers, and even a 50-year-old infamous record shop, proving the city is really a prime example of blending the old with the new.
Foodie culture in Brisbane is absolutely booming, with elegant and unique dining experiences emerging from its rich, multicultural culinary scene.
On the top floor of the recently renovated Naldham House lies one of Brisbane’s best kept culinary secrets. Opened in February, The Fifty Six by Dap & Co. takes traditional Cantonese fare and elevates it to an impressive fine dining experience. But this isn’t pretentious fine dining. Eclectic modernist art pieces are scattered around the room that draw on the 1920s elegance of the building, and the ambience soundtrack covers everything from Talking Heads to Kings of Leon.
Make sure to get the set menu at AUD$85 ($93) per person for two, which comes with succulent spring rolls, a melt-in-your-mouth chicken broth with goji berries, and a daring twist on traditional sweet and sour pork.
Just down by the water on the Kangaroo Point Bridge, another new player also entered the scene and has instantly made its mark. Stilts Dining, the brainchild of Tassis Group and restaurateur Michael Tassis, takes the words elevated dining literally with its location perched perfectly above the water. The chic outfit and focus on premium meat and seafood done well make this the perfect spot for everything from a romantic dinner to a fancy meal with friends.
Their live oysters in bourbon sauce were as succulent as ever - a blessing considering the shortage of Bluffies in New Zealand - and their aged Wagyu was beautifully marbled and so tender that my butter knife slid right through. A special mention must go to the waitstaff, who were incredibly helpful and answered every stupid question this Wagyu novice had with a bucketful of knowledge. Again, no hoity toity here, just good vibes, great food, and impeccable service.
The brand-new Queens Wharf precinct is a marvel of modern engineering and design, with its crown jewel being The Star Grand Hotel, Casino, and Skydeck. Ideally situated next to the stunning new Neville Bonner bridge (which created a direct link to South Bank and the far side of the arts district) the state-of-the-art entertainment complex boasts dozens of restaurants, shops and bars overlooking the river.
The rooms are everything you could want and more from a luxury hotel, with a rainfall shower, KARL LAGERFELD amenities, a control panel for lights and blinds, plus elegant finishes at every turn.
Hotel guests also get their own private elevator access to the ever-so-popular Skydeck. Soaring high above the Brisbane skyline, the 23rd floor of the building features both a free viewing platform and vibrant rooftop bars and restaurants, the perfect place to catch the Brisbane sunset across the river.
Aloria, The Star’s signature rooftop restaurant, doesn’t fail to impress. The buttermilk Kingfish Crudo was the perfect blend of sweet and salty, and the rump cap was cooked to perfection.
If, like me, you think a stage show is the best way to immerse yourself in a country’s cultural scene, then book a show at the Queensland Performing Arts Centre (QPAC) Playhouse. Broadway hit Peter and the Starcatcher (a prequel to JM Barrie’s iconic Peter Pan novels) runs there until April 6, and it’s a spellbinding combination of comedy, puppetry and song.
Legendary Australian comedian Pete Helliar as Smee is standout with his droll comedy sense and fourth wall-breaking sensibilities, but the cast as a whole draws you into a magical world that is perfect for adults and families alike (especially those who don’t want to grow up).
With events like the Brisbane Writers Festival and Carrie: The Musical coming up in May, as well as new exhibits continually popping up at QAGOMA, the Brisbane arts and culture scene train is well and truly on a roll. It’s worth jumping on board for a ride for sure.
Getting there
Fly from Auckland to Brisbane direct with Air New Zealand, Qantas, and Jetstar daily.
Events and locations
Mitchell Hageman was a guest of Tourism and Events Queensland
The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.