8th Wonder Brewery in Houston, USA. Photo / Houston First Corporation 2
For too long the northern states of the USA have branded themselves as the (self-titled) kings of cuisine, but things are turning incredibly gourmet in the South, writes Alex Mitcheson
The USA’s south has always depicted itself as a place where comfort food reigns supreme: big serves and flavoursome simplicity are key. But Houston — sandwiched between the abundant Gulf of Mexico and the uninterrupted fertile plains of Texas — is impatient to show the world a gourmet landscape and top-notch bar scene convincingly rivalling its northern neighbours. There’s passion and quality produce in spades, meaning the country’s fourth most populous city needs to be on your eating-out radar.
8am: Start your day the Texan way
The adage that everything is bigger in Texas doesn’t stop at breakfast. Even if you’re not a big eater first thing, you must make an effort to indulge in breakfast at family-owned and run Gatlin’s BBQ. Having beef brisket to start your day is very Lone Star State, and in the form of breakfast tacos with eggs, cheese and pico de gallo, it’s not only indulgent, it’s delectable with every bite. Traditionalists are catered for with wings and waffles, while fans of sweet things fall hard for the array of muffins. Luckily, they also take their coffee game seriously, with differing roasts available for your caffeine fix.
Gatlin’s BBQ - 3510 Ella Blvd Bldg C Ste A, Houston
1pm: Try a spectacular food court
Take one disused behemoth-sized postal sorting warehouse and create an all-encompassing, multifaceted event, culture and food space — voila, you have Houston’s POST. A lot is happening here, but the neon-lit Market Hall might just be the stuff of foodie dreams. The cornucopia of cuisine available stuns with sophisticated-yet-refined fast-food options such as neo-fjordic seafood at Golfstrømmen and beautifully handcrafted Cantonese fare from Loy Dim Sum. Between scoffs, wander the space entirely, catching rotating art installations and unmatched cityscape views from the elevated Skylawn.
POST - 401 Franklin St, Houston
7pm: Dine on celebrity chef fare
Celebrated chef Evelyn Garcia is no stranger to TV appearances, so when she opened Jūn in one of Houston’s most sought-after neighbourhoods, people sat up and took notice. After honing her skills in New York, she and co-owner chef Henry Lu have created a restaurant hinged on the intelligent melding of Southeast Asian and Texan flavours. Think meaty Gulf Coast oysters with fermented mango mignonette. The food sings, the setting is ultra-chic, and the attentive service is flawless: this is where Houston’s upper crust comes to dine.
Jūn - 420 E 20th St, Suite A, Houston
10pm: Leave room for a cocktail — or two
The city’s going-out scene has come on in leaps and bounds in recent years, undoubtedly enabled by late-night cocktail haunt Julep. Being James Beard awarded and listed as one of North America’s 50 Best Bars are both impressive feats. Still, when you pull up a seat and take your first sip, you’ll fully appreciate why. There are enough considered signatures to keep the late-night sipper occupied, underpinned by a respectful nod towards the Texas mainstay of whiskey with variations on the classic mint julep. These drinks are made approachable and moreish, perfect if you’re not usually a fan of this polarising spirit.
Julep - 1919 Washington Ave, Houston
11am: Brunch like nobody is watching
If lie-ins and bottomless mimosas raise your heart rate, rest assured Texas has you covered with a robust understanding of the art of brunching. Houston’s Museum District is already worth a visit; if you were unsure, iconic Southern eatery Lucille’s will certainly tip the balance. Brothers Chris and Ben Williams have lovingly created a venue that pays homage to their culinary innovator great-grandmother, Lucille B Smith, with delicious takes on classic, time-honoured Texan plates. Perhaps you’ll be tempted by the ox-tail omelette, or this could be your first taste of shrimp and grits. Either way, the diner atmosphere and generous portions will captivate you from start to finish.
Lucille’s - 5512 La Branch St, Houston
3pm: Have a beer with the locals
Break up your day by dropping by the graffiti-covered, artsy district of EaDo (East Downtown) and checking out one of a few craft breweries. 8th Wonder Brewery — taking inspiration for its name from the moniker often ascribed to the Astrodome — is an industrial-style, family-friendly affair where fresh, fun beers pour all afternoon long. You’ll quickly lose time here with the multiple spaces to hang out in, vintage arcade games, and 36ft-tall Beatles sculptures providing a brilliant photo opportunity.
8th Wonder Brewery - 2202 Dallas St, Houston
8pm: Experience an Asian labour of love
Behind an unassuming door, Money Cat has been creating a stir among Houstonians. The modus operandi is simple: deliberate flavours of Japan layered with ingenious flair. The result is food that forces smiles and raises eyebrows. Houston’s ability to acquire superb seafood is celebrated across brilliant sashimi and nigiri. At the same time, dishes like marinated heirloom tomatoes with pickled watermelon and tempura maitake mushrooms push the boundaries of salivate-inducing non-meat dishes. All the while, a vibrant, worldly drinks list is a welcome distraction.
Money Cat - 2925 Richmond Ave, Suite 140, Houston
For more things to see and do in Houston, go to visithoustontexas.com
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