The Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. Photo / Getty Images
Everyone’s heard of Dublin, Belfast and Cork. Here are seven under-rated places in Ireland that you should add to your itinerary, writes Stephen Emms
Ireland is undoubtedly having a moment right now; in the past year I’ve travelled there more than any other country. This round-up of lesser-known towns and cities should complement an itinerary that will, of course, take in Dublin, Belfast and Cork. In the Irish capital, don’t miss hip upcoming neighbourhoods like Stoneybatter and The Liberties, while in Northern Ireland, the new Belfast Grand Central station opens in 2025: set to be the island of Ireland’s biggest transport hub, it will provide a gateway for all rail, bus and coach connections.
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A 40-minute bus ride from Cork, this 12th-century harbour town is home to brightly painted houses and some of Ireland’s cosiest pubs, including its oldest, candlelit hideaway, The Greyhound, dating back to 1690. As the country’s self-proclaimed food capital, its long-running Kinsale Good Food Circle hosts an annual Gourmet Festival, while restaurants include the legendary Jim Edwards, founded in 1971, home to deeply flavourful seafood chowder, as well as more contemporary openings such as Michelin-starred Bastion. The town holds a prominent place in Irish history, vividly recounted at the ruin of 17th century Charles Fort, half an hour’s walk along the coast. Stay at the harbour-facing Acton’s Hotel for impressive views and elevated breakfasts (try the “catch of the day” with hollandaise).
The Causeway Coast, easily accessible from Belfast, is deservedly well-known: after ticking off natural wonder the Giant’s Causeway, stay in 19th-century resort Portrush, gearing up in 2025 for the return of the 153rd Open Championship (July 14-20), its golf course ranked among the world’s Top 10. Don’t miss a visit to nearby Benone Strand, an 11km stretch of beach where Game Of Thrones was filmed, home to the Dunne waterfall, one of the tallest in Northern Ireland, and much-photographed Mussenden Temple, perched on a cliff-top. Several new hotels are opening in Portrush in 2025, including luxury arrival Dunluce Lodge.
This vibrant Gaelige (Irish language-speaking) capital is set in such stunning scenery that, gazing out at the sun setting on the River Corrib, beyond the photogenic 18th century Spanish Arch, you barely feel like you’re in a metropolis at all. Of its many thronged restaurants, especially good in the bohemian backstreets of the Westend area, one small plates bar, Darog, is so good it was packed on a Tuesday in September – and made the Michelin guide after only being open a few months. Afterwards, stroll the bars and pubs of the Latin Quarter, with their buzzy pavement terraces, while equally essential is a drive out into the wilds of mountainous Connemara. Stay in the traditional Park House Hotel just off leafy Eyre Square.
Deep in Fermanagh, Northern Ireland’s “Lake District”, this 17th-century island town, on the shores of the 64km Lough Erne, is considered one of the foodie capitals of the north, as its location is roughly two hours from both Dublin and Belfast. Artisanal spots include bakery Folk Boulangerie, and acclaimed subterranean restaurant 28 At The Hollow, while another tip is the weekly Enniskillen Taste Experience, a food tour headed up by the manager of famed Victorian watering hole, Blake’s Of The Hollow. Other highlights include hilly Forthill Pleasure Park, the Buttermarket, home to two dozen artisans and independent stores, and, of course, castles – both Enniskillen itself and the atmospheric ruin of Portora. Centrally located four-star boutique hotel the Westville is well-priced with spacious rooms and tasty breakfasts.
It was the arrival of the railway in 1854 that made Bray popular, about 50 minutes south of Dublin on the DART line. Its mile-long Victorian seafront now thrums with cafes and restaurants: amble from the harbour along the promenade to climb the surprisingly steep 244m-high Bray Head, whose rock-filled summit boasts awe-inspiring views. Hit contemporary restaurant Butler & Barry on the beach for fish and chips, before hiding away in the Harbour Bar. Established in 1871, it gives textbook cosiness, from roaring fires to wonky lamps, alongside eclectic memorabilia, old typewriters and Chesterfield armchairs. Stay at the Strand Hotel, the former family home of Oscar Wilde.
The two-hour train journey from Belfast is exhilarating, the route mostly follows the coast with spectacular views, while the city, all sharp hills and dazzling views, is crowned by romantic 17th-century walls (the longest, complete walkable circuit in Ireland). This sense of ancient history offsets both the modern 2013-constructed curving Peace Bridge and thought-provoking Bogside Murals, which commemorate civil rights protests during The Troubles. For fans of Netflix TV show Derry Girls, an enormous mural and exhibition in the Tower Museum add a celebratory note. Dine in acclaimed chef Phelim O’Hagan’s restaurant Artis, and stay at the smart new Ebrington Hotel next to taproom Walled City Brewery, with views across the River Foyle.
With its 13th-century abbey ruins and lively pedestrianised strip of bars and restaurants along the fast-moving Garavogue River, this County Mayo town is less obviously touristy than nearby Westport (itself also worth a visit) but somehow more authentic. Renowned for its WB Yeats Society, open to visitors, and contemporary art gallery The Model, a key new development is the €4million ($7.3m) Queen Maeve Square, with its iconic Sligo sign (you won’t be able to resist a selfie), and a useful public space for concerts and the new Taste of Sligo Food Festival. My two preferred pubs are craft beer hangout The Swagman, and the dark-panelled Thomas Connolly, occupying a site dating back to 1780. Stay at the well-priced and located Riverside Hotel.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Dublin with one stopover with Qatar Airways, Emirates and Air NZ (with Aer Lingus).
DETAILS
'Queues are shorter and processing times are much faster,' says Auckland Airport boss.