There's so much to see so plan well, writes Jo Bell.
Population seven million, Hong Kong is the fourth most densely populated region in the world. Proudly Cantonese but with its past as part of the British Empire obvious at every turn, English is widely spoken in this fast-paced, international city.
Every year millions of people flock to Hong Kong to shop. With everything from luxury and designer brands to chic local boutiques and street markets, there are options for every price point.
It's also a top dining destination in its own right. Hong Kong's sophisticated food scene offers everything from international Michelin-starred fine dining to casual local eateries, hidden bars and family-run food stalls.
After about 11 hours flying from Auckland, catching the Airport Express into the city is easy and cheaper than a taxi. Departing every 10 minutes, a half-hour train ride takes you to Kowloon or Hong Kong stations. Both provide an in-town check-in service for your bags prior to your departing flight.
As a tourist you're likely to spend most time on Hong Kong Island, an invigorating mix of skyscrapers and traditional life crammed into 70 mountainous square kilometres.
Much of the action is concentrated in the district known as Central, with great eating and shopping to be had here and in nearby Soho and Wan Chai.
Across Victoria Harbour, Kowloon offers more good shopping, with many of the larger hotels over this side and views back over the water to Hong Kong Island and its towering skyscrapers, set against a backdrop of steep hills.
Many visitors choose to stay in Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. Here, Hotel Icon is a top pick, with its well-appointed rooms with harbour views and complimentary mini bars, top-notch service and Cantonese restaurant Above & Beyond. Designer Terence Conran, and architects Rocco Yim and William Lim all contributed to the hotel's stylish appearance. The outdoor pool, gym and spa on the ninth floor offer an escape from the city.
To be closer to Central, consider basing yourself in vibrant Wan Chai, formerly the city's red light district and now home to eateries, markets, speciality shops and traditional Cantonese architecture. A good choice here is Hotel Indigo with its sleek rooms, cityscape views and dramatic glass-bottomed infinity pool that cantilevers out from the building. It is an easy walk to much that Central has to offer and you'll find several top restaurants just minutes from your door, with good cafes and coffee shops to get you moving in the morning.
Awash with top luxury and designer brands, Hong Kong is most definitely a shopping destination. Just bear in mind that most shops don't open until 11am and you are likely to be awake much earlier.
So, after grabbing breakfast, start your day by heading to top tourist attraction Victoria Peak, the island's highest peak at 552m and ride Peak Tram to the top where a viewing platform provides 360-degree views across Hong Kong. It is open from 7am but the peak gets busy later in the day and there are queues, so make the most of the time difference and tick this one off the list early.
Next, wander down the hill to explore the huge Landmark mall in the city, full of luxury and designer brands. While you're there, check out nearby Ice House St for hip brands Comme Des Garcons, Anne Demeulemeester and IRO, and Isabel Marant around the corner on On Lan St.
Once you've had your fill of window shopping, stop for lunch at one of the mall's various dining destinations, such as Mak Mak for retro Thai or the pricier Zuma for izikaya-style Japanese.
The other big mall worth checking out in central Hong Kong is the IFC (International Finance Centre). Although the mall is bursting with luxury brands, department store Lane Crawford is a must with a seemingly endless offering of fashion, beauty, shoes and homewares. Tick off Zara too while you're there and Stockholm fashion house Acne, with its chic rose-tinted frontage, is worth a look.
For dinner, Wan Chai's 22 Ships (or nearby sister Ham & Sherry) is a must — no bookings required. Spanish tapas are the name of the game at this casual eatery, courtesy of British celebrity chef Jason Atherton, whose London restaurant Pollen Street Social gained a Michelin star in its opening year. Sit at the window to watch the world go by while nibbling on small plates like Hawke's Bay lamb shoulder with caramelised yoghurt, peas and parsley puree; tuna tartare with cucumber and shiso; and cauliflower with mushroom, parsley and walnut pesto.
Finish with a nightcap at bar and eatery The Pawn, a former pawnshop and one of Hong Kong's most iconic landmarks, which dates back to 1888.
After a late breakfast, head to Kowloon and warm up the legs with a wander along the waterfront promenade, then it's time to soak up the views and the cool sea breeze with a harbour cruise.Hong Kong's famous Star Ferry is pleasant and affordable, but for a more leisurely option, try their circular Harbour Tour with calling points at Tsim Sha Tsui, Central and Wan Chai (departing 11.55am-7.55pm daily) or take a cruise on a traditional junk such as the Aqua Luna (departing midday-7.30pm daily).
Back in Kowloon, Harbour City mall has more designer brands but head to the Ocean Terminal for a whole floor dedicated to kids, including a massive Toys R Us store and luxury brands Burberry, Gucci, Chloe and more, all peddling mini versions of their wares. High-end boutique Joyce on Nathan Rd is also worth checking out for its edit of top fashion brands for women.
For a refreshment stop, there's a food hall-style area on level 3 in the Gateway Arcade section of the mall, and good sushi at Umai SushiKan. Or for something a bit more high end, head to Felix, a Philippe Starck-designed restaurant on the 28th floor of Kowloon's swanky Peninsula Hotel.
Hong Kong boasts more skyscrapers than any other city in the world, so to get a bird's eye view, head to one of Kowloon's sky bars. Aqua offers city views and cocktails with a sophisticated airy vibe. In the middle of the shopping district, it's open from midday to midnight seven days. Or for truly eye-watering heights, head to Ozone at the Ritz Carlton, supposedly the world's highest bar at a dizzying 118 floors up (open from 5pm weekdays, 3pm Sat and midday Sun).
Many of the city's most recognisable buildings, such as the Bank of China Tower and IFC Tower, are in Central but while on this side, architecture buffs should check out the unusual fluid lines of the Jockey Club Innovation Tower, designed by Pritzker prize winning architect Zaha Hadid.
Catch the Star Ferry or MTR Train back across the harbour and spend an hour or two wandering the narrow back streets of Soho and the Mid Levels. The Central-Mid-Levels escalator and walkway system is a novel way to rest those weary legs.
PMQ in Soho is worth a visit. Once the Police Married Quarters, this large 1950s building is now a creative hub for bright young Hong Kong designers in the form of permanent stores and pop-ups, with several good eateries including Sohofama and Aberdeen Street Social.
Outside on Staunton St you'll find modern Chinese diner Little Bao and cute little corner bar Qipau. For shopping, head to Homeless for Scandi design, Woah Store for gadgets, scents and stationary, and Gold Yard for clothing and gifts. Nearby Hollywood Rd is the place to head for antiques and art galleries and is also home to Man Mo Temple, the oldest temple on Hong Kong Island.
As the sun goes down, head to Central and settle in for a modern Cantonese feast at Mott 32. Bookings are essential as this is one of the city's best restaurants with a slick basement fit-out to match the level of the food. The signature applewood roasted 42 days Peking duck is next level. Also highly recommended is the sweet and sour pork with dragon fruit and aged black vinegar, and the Kung Po prawns with sweetcorn and water chestnut cakes.
Finish the day with a drink at Sevva rooftop bar, and enjoy a cocktail while taking in the harbour views and the dazzling Symphony of Lights — a synchronised dance of lights and lasers across the city's buildings (nightly from 8pm).
Follow Jo's travels on Instagram: @meandmrjones.travel
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