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Home / The Country

Small business: How environmental rules led Taupō farmers to create craft beer brand Lakeman

NZ Herald
2 Jun, 2024 05:00 PM3 mins to read

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James (left) and Elissa Cooper, sheep and beef farmers in Taupō who founded the craft beer brand Lakeman.

James (left) and Elissa Cooper, sheep and beef farmers in Taupō who founded the craft beer brand Lakeman.

Fresh off getting three beers into the top 30 of the New World Beer and Cider Awards, Elissa Cooper, co-founder of premium craft beer Lakeman, talks to the Herald about finding success in brewing while juggling running a farm.

What is Lakeman?

A brewery based on a sheep and beef farm in Taupō.

What motivated you to go down the path of brewing and start Lakeman?

We bought a farm within the Lake Taupō catchment and environmental regulations which were being introduced capped the amount of stock we could run and the nitrogen we could apply, to protect the freshwater in Lake Taupō. We realised we needed another income stream and thought about diversifying on the farm and using the water resource we were protecting to make beer.

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You’ve also opened a beer pub and restaurant, Jimmy Coops. What can you tell us about that?

We were after somewhere to showcase our beer and had looked at a tap room on the farm but an opportunity came up during Covid to go into partnership with Vaughan and Leanne Nairn (Taupō hospitality legends) in a location on the Taupō lakefront so we thought it was too good an opportunity to pass by.

What were you doing before starting Lakeman?

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James (husband) was farming and I was a veterinarian.

How big is your team?

We have 20 full-time staff between our three businesses. I spend the majority of my time with Lakeman, followed by Jimmy Coops. James spends 50 per cent of his time on the farm and the balance between the other two but often works most days.

How have you funded the business?

Equity out of our farm got us established.

What have been your biggest challenges in business to date?

One of the biggest challenges has been having enough capital in a quickly growing business and recruiting and retaining great people who share our vision for the business.

Navigating the Covid years was extremely challenging because the lockdowns took a toll on cash flow, and with the brewery, it was an educated guess when to ramp production up again. There were also supply chain issues with materials and navigating the human health aspect of Covid-19 with employees was difficult at points. We closed Jimmy Coops a couple of days a week at certain times but managed to carry all our staff through in both Lakeman and Jimmy Coops.

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Three of Lakeman's beers made the top 30 of the 2024 New World Beer and Cider Awards – Big Hairy, Taupo Thunder and Primate Pilsner.
Three of Lakeman's beers made the top 30 of the 2024 New World Beer and Cider Awards – Big Hairy, Taupo Thunder and Primate Pilsner.

What have been your highlights in business?

Surviving 11 years in business and still being married! We also won the 2023 supreme beer at the New World Beer and Cider Awards for the Primate Pilsner and then following up this year with three beers in the top 30 is amazing.

What challenges is the brewing industry facing at the moment?

Like all businesses, increasing costs and dealing with a flat economy.

Where do you see Lakeman in the next two to three years?

Sustainable growth if we can in this challenging economy with thoughts of diversifying into on-farm tourism.

What’s your advice for others thinking about starting their own business?

Believe in your product or service. Employ the best people you possibly can. Sometimes it’s not the qualifications it’s the person. And celebrate the wins, even the small ones.

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