Onions should be stored in mesh bags, which allows air to circulate freely.
The vegetable garden is always a place of action, with sowing and planting best undertaken little and often to ensure continuous harvesting, providing a year round supply of vegetables.
Thinking ahead to autumn and winter harvest, now is the time to make plantings of leeks and brassicas.
Planting now will allow some fantastic growth and vegetables ready to harvest in May and June.
Plant brassicas too late and they will not be ready until spring as the growth stops when temperatures get cold in winter.
If planting now you must be vigilant in the battle against the white butterfly caterpillars.
White butterflies, which are not as bad as last year due to a wetter summer, will eat brassicas like cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts and kale.
If something is not done to avoid or control the attack, your crops can be destroyed.
Another pest that will damage brassicas, which is often blamed on the white butterfly, is the diamondback moth.
The caterpillars of the diamondback moth are similar to the white butterfly caterpillar but a lot smaller and are capable of more damage as they can drill deep holes into the host plant like cabbages.
The adult moths are very small but can be seen flying off the crop when disturbed.
An excellent control product is Yates Success Ultra.
This product is derived from naturally occurring bacteria specific to the control of caterpillars only.
This is not harmful to us or the environment, and does not affect the beneficial insects.
Yates Success Ultra is very effective when applied about every 14 days over the white butterfly breeding season.
With the hot, sunny weather onions should now be drying off prior to harvesting and storing away for the winter.
Once the stems of onions have bent over they need to be pulled and left to lie in the sun for a few days to dry and cure.
There are various ways of storing them including;
• Stringing: Hang in the kitchen to give them a French flavour.
• Wire netting: Strung between garage or shed rafters.
• Onion bags: Hang in onion bags where air can circulate freely.
It is time to make new sowings of carrot and beetroot for a tasty autumn/winter crop.
The best varieties are hybrids, where there has been a focus on breeding for superior taste, improved pest and disease resistance, increased vigour and yield.
In addition hybrids have the benefit of being consistent and reliable.
A number of the varieties are also more compact, and faster maturing, which results in a larger range from less space, and the ability to produce more crops through the season.
Many are ideal for raised planter beds and container gardening.
The following carrot and beetroot are in the range with the following description:
• Beetroot Red Lightning: Sweet and tender. Strong and vigorous early maturing, upright grower, producing uniform size deep red globe shaped roots. The best variety available.
• Carrot Europa: Strong, vigorous germination and rapid growth. Long straight carrot with good disease resistance and tolerance to 'bolting'. This is the best home garden carrot yet developed.
When sowing seeds direct into the garden ensure the ground is well dug over and broken down to a fine soil.
Once germinated thin out plants for a better crop and keep moist and weed free.
Protect seedlings with slug bait and feed regularly with liquid fertiliser Ican Fast Food.
Very few pest and disease problems are encountered when growing beetroot.
Carrots and parsnips sown in November and December are growing rapidly now.
Finger-size thinned-out carrots can be pulled out and eaten to leave more growing space for the others.
Carrots grow best in soil low in nitrogen. Too high in nitrogen may result in the carrot roots forking - a very common problem for home gardeners.
Carrot seed is very fine and difficult to handle.
To get an even distribution mix the seed with sand or similar fine organic matter to increase the bulk. Sprinkle this mixture along your marked rows 1-2cm deep with rows 15cm apart. Keep moist until the ferny foliage appears.
Thin 4-7cm apart depending on how large you want your carrots to grow.
Some common problems are splitting, forking and rots. Splitting is caused through irregular water supply and with soil being over fertilised or manured with excess nitrogen.
The general rule is higher nitrogen fertilisers for leaf crops such as silverbeet, and lettuce.
Carrots are ready when they are around 2cm across at the top of the carrot.
You may need to carefully remove some soil from around the carrot to see this, or sometimes you will be able to see the carrot slightly above the ground.
Carrots are generally sweetest when they are slightly on the small side and lose flavour if they get too large.
Don't store damaged carrots. Soft rot can be caused by growing in a heavily manured garden, particularly if there is poor drainage.
Carrots prefer a deeply cultivated soil and can be sown anytime from spring to autumn.