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Home / Sport

Surfing: The power of one

Dana Johannsen
By Dana Johannsen
Reporter·NZ Herald·
15 Jan, 2009 03:00 PM4 mins to read

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Daniel Kereopa sails through the heats of the national championships at Piha. Photo / Getty Images

Daniel Kereopa sails through the heats of the national championships at Piha. Photo / Getty Images

KEY POINTS:

New Zealand surfing legend Daniel Kereopa has one goal in mind when asked what he wants to achieve this year.

It doesn't involve overcoming an arch rival, climbing his way up the rankings, winning titles or earning a big pay cheque.

These days, Kereopa's main career focus is
"to become one with the ocean".

Some may write off such assertions as new age nonsense. But when you listen to the enthusiasm with which Kereopa talks about his sport and his affinity with the sea, you quickly get the feeling it is something he is deeply passionate about.

"I really just want to learn more about the ocean and be at one with the sea. The love I have for the ocean has made me the person I am today," said Kereopa.

"I've only got 20 years on the ocean so there's so much more to learn."

The 30-year-old has certainly found himself in sync with the waves at this week's national championships in Piha, where he is competing in the men's open, longboard and the newly introduced stand-up paddle boarding divisions.

This year's championships is a comeback of sorts for Kereopa who semi-retired after taking out the national title in 2007, choosing instead to focus on his family.

Over that time Kereopa has continued to satisfy his love for the sport by competing in the Hyundai Pro Longboard Tour.

Having also overcome a couple of injuries in the past year, including a broken ankle, the Raglan resident felt the time was right to test himself once more. While he didn't place himself under any pressure in this year's event - "these days it's mostly about having fun" - Kereopa admitted to feeling slightly nervous ahead of his opening heats on day one.

It has been a while since the former Kiwi number one has taken on the likes of Gisborne brothers Maz and Jay Quinn in the intensely competitive men's open division, but the diminutive surfer has more than held his own cruising his way into the finals of the men's open and the standing open paddle event.

"I have to say I was pretty nervous heading in to this week because it has been a while since I've taken on those guys who I regard as absolute champs," said Kereopa.

"But really, I am just here to have a good time. There is still no pressure on me. I came into the event to gauge myself and seem to be doing alright."

As for how he rates his chances for a second national title in the men's open, Kereopa believes it will come down to who can best handle the tempestuous Piha conditions.

"The biggest threat is the wave itself. Piha changes its mood every hour so the person who adjusts the best will win. All the boys are surfing real good so the guy who masters the conditions will have the edge."

Kereopa hopes to continue working towards mastering the conditions - competitively or not.

Part of his continuing education with the sea includes indulging in his new passion of stand-up paddle surfing.

The sport, which is still new to New Zealand, originated in Hawaii and is popular around island resorts. It is fast emerging as a global sport and several competitive disciplines have been introduced.

Kereopa had a go at paddle surfing about four years ago and was drawn to the versatility of the sport. Stand-up paddle boarding offers surfers the ability to catch more waves in a set, as well as offering a better view of incoming sets.

He has competed in a number of big paddle-surfing events in Hawaii, both in the more traditional wave riding divisions as well as gruelling distance events which involve paddling up to 50km in open water usually from one island to another.

Kereopa said the marathon event was a true test of endurance.

"You can't even stand up afterwards, all you want to do is collapse in the boat and lie there for a few hours."

Which is probably what most people would think of as being at one with the sea.

DANIEL KEREOPA

Born: 28/02/1978, Huntly

Hometown: Raglan

Height: 1.68m

Surfing competitively since: 1990

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