Few spectators, but a mighty spectacle

By Nick Perry

Seeing the midnight-blue sails of Abracadabra loom over the morning horizon is magic.

As the Hawaiian boat comes closer, a mighty creak can be heard on the otherwise silent sea each time she tacks, and tiny figures on deck are dwarfed by a mast reaching high into the sky.

We, the media, are on a chartered Fullers boat to watch the starting duels on day one of what is promised to be the country's biggest sporting event - ever, ever, ever.

But romantic thoughts of the ocean are interrupted by efficient volunteers (dubbed "grey power") on board Patrol Boat 8 who abruptly inform us we are encroaching on the pre-start area.

As we move behind some orange buoys, a nearby yacht is heard getting equally short shrift.

The volunteers get the "Atlantic" course area clear as the yachts start their manoeuvres. Some racing boats come incredibly close to us, giving a close-up view into hollowed-out hulls and of grinders giving it their all.

Next to us, the Prada support boat looks like a decent-sized fishing vessel, dwarfing most fans' yachts. On the horizon we see boats gathering at the other race area, the Pacific course.

But in all there are probably just 100 supporters' boats watching the races.

The Boating Industries Association says the big day has been dampened by authorities asking boaties to stay off the water - a plea the association likens to telling rugby fans to stay away from a World Cup tournament at Eden Park.

But it does admit that hundreds more vessels are likely to take to the seas during the weekend. Whatever the arguments, we don't mind being left in relative peace to watch the racing.

We get a good view of the tacking duels and as the boats take off, but after that keeping up with the play is difficult and the need for some high-tech television graphics is apparent.

The beautiful morning turns grey, and rain soon forces us below decks.

New York Times correspondent John Shaw is one of a dozen foreign journalists on board. The 68-year-old has been in the game for 40 years, and is a veteran of several wars as well as political reporting in Washington.

He says the Times has run a couple of previews on the cup, but is not going to be giving it blow-by-blow coverage. Interest might mount if one of the American teams does well - especially New York's Young America.

Shaw says he is planning a travel story while in town, which may include something on icons known to the United States - Sir Edmund Hillary, Kiri Te Kanawa, Sir Peter Blake and "that piano beach."

"But it makes no difference how the All Blacks do. No one has heard of them."

Another on board is Australian-based Reuters correspondent John Roberson, who says interest in the cup seems to be highest in Japan, followed by France and Italy, as well as parts of the US.

He rates the American Express NZ Cup Village highly, and says it has improved the look of Auckland as well as being far superior to the scene in San Diego.

As the sun comes out again, we are able to watch the boats cross the finish line during the afternoon races and be towed back to their berths, to do it all again on the next day's racing.

But for now, sunswept and tired, we are content to feel some solid ground beneath our feet.