NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Sport / Rugby / All Blacks

Argentina: The new beautiful game

NZ Herald
4 Mar, 2013 10:00 PM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

All Black fans head to a Four-Nations test. Photo / James Ihaka

All Black fans head to a Four-Nations test. Photo / James Ihaka

All Blacks and their supporters are treated like royalty in soccer-mad Argentina, writes James Ihaka

We are heading to Quilmes on the southern fringes of Buenos Aires for an All Blacks training session and on the way, we're the subject of the kind of attention normally afforded to rock stars.

A cavalcade of the city's special armed police force ride in pairs on motorbikes that duck in and out of traffic, sirens blaring, lights flashing, and using large rubber batons they whack on tardy cars that dare to stay in our path. Our balaclava-clad minders carry a small arsenal of machine guns, snub-shaped tear-gas cannons and shotguns. The heavy weaponry emerges from holsters when our entourage ambles past an enormous shantytown adjacent to the upmarket school - enclosed with barbed-wire fencing - where the team will train.

"It's for your protection," says one of the policemen, Jorge, who can't be more than 1.5m tall and tells me he wants a picture with All Black captain Richie McCaw.

"We are not joking," he says.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

This is how the All Blacks and their supporters do it in Argentina and, to be fair, many of us don't mind, even if it irks the locals and is an OTT way to save 10 minutes of drive time.

Our eclectic bunch includes comedian Dai Henwood, Olympic champion rower Mahe Drysdale, Dancing with the Stars' Frank Bunce and one of Prince Tui Teka's former guitarists.

It's an exciting time for our mob, many of whom are making their first foray on South American soil for the Rugby Championship that has injected new life into what most were saying was a repetitive and tired Tri-Nations format.

Ask any of this group what they know of our host city and the answers follow a few familiar themes: "Dos cervezas por favor", "leather's cheaper than back at home", "excellent wine, try the malbec", and "good-looking rugby players with mullets".

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Some of us have been lucky enough to enjoy the quaint and subtle charms of Colonia in Uruguay, a short ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata. Others have failed tango lessons in the cobbled and beautifully dilapidated San Telmo where gorgeous dancers smile patiently as they endure hopelessly out-of-step gringos from Otorohanga and Opotiki trampling on their delicate feet. There are visits to the vast Recoleta cemetery - a peculiar tourist destination - and few miss the awesome sight of Argentine rugby great Serafin Dengra with his shirt off doing his "Puma haka".

Many walked about the swanky Palermo Soho and had pictures taken with Diego Maradona's lost brother - at least that's what he looked like - in the old Italian hangout of La Boca. There were trips to the Tigres delta.

Buenos Aires, known as the Paris of the South for its wide avenues and colonial, neo-classical and gothic architecture, certainly has its charms. And when it appears as if the whole town has come out to greet us when we arrive in La Plata, a few hours before the All Blacks play the Pumas at Stadio Unico de la Plata, I start to wonder if the locals actually want us to win. Some are waving New Zealand flags, others leave their picnics or crowd verandas to hoist children on to their shoulders - and all are smiling, save the village idiot who does a back-and-forward motion pointing to his crotch.

One of our guides, Eduardo later tells me this is probably due to the fact that we are not soccer supporters, some of whom have scarred the beautiful game in Argentina with an ugly brand of ultra-violence, intimidation and high-level corruption.

Discover more

Travel

Argentina: Stepping out in Buenos Aires

21 Dec 02:30 AM
Travel

Visitors not welcome

16 Jan 02:30 AM
Travel

Argentina: 48 hours in Buenos Aires

21 Jan 01:00 AM
Travel

Argentina: Tango and sass

16 May 09:00 PM

"The rugby supporters here are of a different class ... you could say they are more gentlemanly-like to the opposition.

"Futbol, not so. It could end quite differently and not so happily."

A visit to La Bombonera, the home of Boca Juniors in La Boca, where futbol demi-god Maradona has a permanent hospitality suite, gives us an indication of what Eduardo was talking about. There is space for just 3500 visiting fans, who are searched for weapons upon entry and are housed in the wettest, windiest and coldest part of the stadium, well out of earshot of their team. The visitors have to share just one toilet, and their changing room is directly underneath La Doce, or the team's 12th man, their maniacal supporters who make a point of jumping up and down when the opposition checks in below.

"We play the game to win and we will do anything we can to make sure our team does win," our guide Isabella tells us.

I reckon if the Pumas are serious about beating the All Blacks, this is where they should play them.

•James Ihaka went to Argentina courtesy of Air New Zealand.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Save

    Share this article

Latest from All Blacks

Rugby|npc

Ex-All Black tells of surviving 'terminal' cancer and battling brother for black jersey

21 Jun 12:00 AM
Premium
Opinion

Liam Napier: Where the Chiefs could edge the Crusaders in Super Rugby final

20 Jun 06:00 PM
Premium
All Blacks

Exclusive: Claims NZR tried to discourage Ardie Savea joining Moana Pasifika

20 Jun 12:01 AM

Jono and Ben brew up a tea-fuelled adventure in Sri Lanka

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from All Blacks

Ex-All Black tells of surviving 'terminal' cancer and battling brother for black jersey

Ex-All Black tells of surviving 'terminal' cancer and battling brother for black jersey

21 Jun 12:00 AM

At 15, Greg Cooper was told he had only six months to live.

Premium
Liam Napier: Where the Chiefs could edge the Crusaders in Super Rugby final

Liam Napier: Where the Chiefs could edge the Crusaders in Super Rugby final

20 Jun 06:00 PM
Premium
Exclusive: Claims NZR tried to discourage Ardie Savea joining Moana Pasifika

Exclusive: Claims NZR tried to discourage Ardie Savea joining Moana Pasifika

20 Jun 12:01 AM
'We don’t have a choice': France coach defends second-string squad for ABs tour

'We don’t have a choice': France coach defends second-string squad for ABs tour

17 Jun 06:25 PM
Help for those helping hardest-hit
sponsored

Help for those helping hardest-hit

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP