Station owner’s hard work opens pathway to spectacular landscape.
Garston is a small settlement an hour's drive south of Queenstown. It has an old pub, a shop selling honey products and a silver Airstream camper made in Washington state in 1966. Hence the name Route 66, the burgers, and the 1960s pop music that serenades you as you study a blackboard menu that would be quite at home in Ponsonby.
The special of the day is a burger on a ciabatta bun with pineapple soaked in brown sugar and coconut cream. Or you could try the lamb burger with rocket and tzasiki.
There is also a sign promoting Welcome Rock Trails, and when you reach Welcome Rock 800m above the homestead at Blackmore Station you can see why visitors are amazed by the breathtaking scenery which fills 360 degrees. As the fourth generation of his family on the station, Tom O'Brien is quite matter-of-fact in his understated Southland approach when he explains why he laboured for two years to build a 27km walking and mountain biking trail around the mountain tops.
"The high country is marginal farming land so we put 1000 ha into a covenant which protects it forever, and decided to put in the trails," he explains.
Because of the archaeological values of the rich gold-mining history no machinery could be used to build the trails, so Tom did it by hand with a pick and shovel. Part of the trail follows the longest water race in the country, which was built by imported Chinese workers 120 years ago. The 40km race carried water from the Roaring Lion Stream to the Nokomai Stream gold field, on the border of Tom's land.
"There was a sod hut every 6km where one of the Chinese lived, and his job was to maintain the water race."
It was a lonely existence, made bearable by the relaxing influence of an opium pipe and other herbs.
"Jimmy Long lived in this hut," said Tom, as he stoked the fire in the hut which he restored, adding a wooden floor and corrugated iron roof. Over the years the hut was damaged by cows rubbing against it, and it took 400 17kg mud bricks dug out of the hillside to put it back together.
The Welcome Rock trail experience is aimed at families and people who enjoy the gentle walk, or mountain bike ride. "The steepest gradient is three degrees, and you can do 5km, 10 or 27. The hut is available for overnight stays and we have another hut at Welcome Rock."
The impressive rock formation overlooks a wide valley and the Eyre Mountain range, and was named because travellers could water their horses at a nearby spring, and it was welcome because the journey from that point was all downhill.
Sausages cooked on a pan sitting on coals in the fireplace and served with a mash of spuds, carrots, mushrooms and broccoli mixed in a saucepan with butter and eaten by candlelight after a day in the mountains taste like a dish from the finest restaurant. Then Tom produces bananas which he splits along one side, inserts chunks of chocolate and places on the coals. The hot syrupy banana flesh and molten chocolate scooped from the blackened skin with a fork complete the meal.
There is no phone coverage here, no electricity, no traffic noise and no street lighting and the slumber in the total blackness on a canvas bed nailed to a frame with a folded jacket for a pillow is complete.
Fresh water
Some of the best classic dry fishing in the world can be found in the Garston district. The Mataura River flows alongside the main highway, and the famous Stu's Fly Fishing Shop is down the road at Athol.
But for North Islanders the harling on Lake Tarawera and Lake Rotoiti is hot, with the trout feeding on smelt every morning and evening. During the day deep trolling or jigging is the better option.
Bite times
Bite times are 9.20am and 9.45pm tomorrow, and 10.10am and 10.30pm on Sunday.
Tip of the week
You can introduce youngsters to trout fishing by threading a worm on a hook and drifting it down the Mataura as the locals like to do. Then young anglers can progress to casting a spinner and then on to a fly rod. But worming should only be tried in South Island waters. It is frowned upon in Rotorua or Taupo.
More fishing action can be found on Rheem Outdoors with Geoff, 6.30am Saturday, TV3, and at GTTackle.co.nz