Football: Cauldron of chaos

Witch doctors and dancers attempt to hex the All Whites ahead of today's Fifa World Cup playoff in Peru. Photo / AP

Welcome to the cauldron. It is unlikely any New Zealand sports team has experienced the hostile reception the All Whites will face in Lima today.

Certainly there is no precedent in New Zealand football, although the sudden-death playoff against China in sweltering Singapore to earn the last place at the 1982 World Cup goes close.

Across other sports, whether it is the All Blacks visiting South Africa or the Black Caps facing Australia at the Melbourne Cricket Ground, nothing can compare with the ferocity, fever and passion that the All Whites will encounter at Estadio Nacional in Lima, as they battle Peru for the 32nd and final place at next year's Fifa World Cup in Russia.

Throughout this country of 32 million people, from Iquitos and the Amazon areas in the north to Tacna near the Atacama desert in the south, only one thing matters - breaking a 36-year drought and qualifying for Russia 2018. The desire is palpable: on the streets, inside the bars and restaurants, and flashing across most television channels.

The match, which kicks off at 9.15pm local time (3.15pm NZT), is set to be an incredible experience.

That became clear yesterday as amazing scenes unfolded around the stadium. By 9am, there was a queue that stretched more than 500 metres, with people waiting to pick up tickets they received through the national ballot for the 40,000 seats inside the stadium.

A couple at the front of the line had driven from another city almost nine hours away and had been queuing since 4am.

"It's no problem," said Claudia. "It's normal for us, we have to support the team. Peru tiene que ganar manana [Peru have to win tomorrow]."

The Peru team arrived shortly afterwards, prompting mad scenes as supporters clamoured to see their heroes. There were huge drums, bigger flags and costumes of every description, with constant chants of "Vamos Peru".

Undoubtedly the strangest sight was a group of traditional shaman, or medicine men - one holding a live snake - who gathered to bless La Blanquirroja and put a curse on the All Whites.

They danced, chanted, threw flowers and burned incense, while offering their pleas to the gods about the match. The ceremony around the New Zealand team was a bit more disturbing, as a team photo of the All Whites was placed on the ground before being prodded and stabbed with a stick, with goalkeeper Stefan Marinovic one of the main targets. Large pictures of Chris Wood, Winston Reid and Marco Rojas were also torn up, while the snake was pressed towards the photos.

More chaos ensued when the New Zealand team bus arrived. The crowd rushed towards it, although there were plenty of riot police with shields forming a barricade.

For some reason, the driver chose not to use the same entrance as the Peruvian team and tried to go through another gate but the bus was too high to get under the roof. After three or four attempts - to the amusement and jeers of local media and fans - the driver abandoned his quest and the New Zealand players got off.

All around the city, Lima is in preparation mode for the match. Huge screens are being erected at different plazas, while streets around the stadium precinct will be closed from early afternoon.

"The city is going to stop," said one fan, adorned head to toe in Peru's red and white. "I've never seen Peru in the World Cup. So many people have never seen Peru in the World Cup. We can't wait any longer. We have to win."