KEY POINTS:
The Bay of Islands, arguably New Zealand's premier summer water sports playground, is still a magnet for trailer boats as well as larger vessels.
Late each December, marinas in the Auckland area empty as moored boats cast off and head away for the long-awaited summer cruise. While some
stay close at hand (Kawau, the "bottom end" and Coromandel), a large proportion will be heading north to "The Bay".
However, as boating and fishing writer John Eichelsheim points out in his new book, The Mad Keen Fisherman's Road Trip, trailer boat owners are also returning in huge numbers.
Part of this widespread appeal lies in the complex of beautiful bays, secluded coves, rocky headlands, islands and beaches, meaning it is almost always possible to find a quiet spot in which to shelter, relax or fish, regardless of how many other boaties are also in the area.
There is also a wide range of launching facilities scattered throughout the area. These vary from hard sand ramps at the river mouths to the large concrete boat ramp at Opua, which is able to accommodate the largest trailer boat. There is also a reasonable concrete ramp at Russell and another at Tapeka.
There are two main towns in the Bay of Islands - Paihia and Russell - and these are still the focus for the bulk of visitors.
Steeped in history, both welcome visitors, although Paihia offers a wider choice of accommodation and eating houses, a number of which are located right on the waterfront.
Attracting large numbers of overseas tourists, Paihia is a cosmopolitan place and feels more like a resort than Russell.
There is a full-sized supermarket (near Waitangi), numerous restaurants and bars and a selection of nightspots.
Russell, once known as the hellhole of the Pacific, now has a sleepy and picturesque appearance. However its history is never far from the surface and can be found in the church graveyard, the museum, Pompallier House and other historic buildings.
Russell's nightlife is confined to its restaurants, the Swordfish Club (well worth a visit), the Duke of Marlborough Hotel on the waterfront and the Russell Tavern.
It's still largely the preserve of locals, supplemented in summer by well-heeled part-time residents.
The Bay of Islands also offers many attractions for those who have left the boat at home or want a break from the superb fishing.
These include leisurely cruises, high-speed rides to the Hole in the Rock at Piercy Island and dolphin discovery tours, all of which pick up and drop off at Paihia and Russell.
Both centres also have large charter fleets, offering day sailing, sailing charters and tuition, parasailing, kayaking, water skiing, motorboat hire, bottom fishing, gamefishing, diving - anything on, in or under the water.
Of course, many visitors are attracted by the fishing and its reputation is well-deserved.
Close to Paihia there is good fishing all year round and school snapper are plentiful, especially during summer.
Kahawai and other species are also widespread.
In good weather, the deep reefs and broken rubble of the middle sections of the Bay - at Cape Brett, Piercy Island and the Ninepin - become accessible to trailer boats.
The fishing around these headlands and over deep foul can be excellent for snapper, kingfish, tarakihi and kahawai, while the deeper rocks wider out produce good-sized hapuku.
The bay is also New Zealand's spiritual home of big-game fishing since the sport was put on the map in the 1920s by American author Zane Grey.
In summer, there are tuna and marlin. Skipjack tuna often penetrate deep into the bay, especially in autumn, providing great light-tackle sport for small boat anglers and a welcome supply of fresh snapper bait.
In summer, when the wind often blows from the north or east, Russell offers some of the best shelter in the bay.
Even around nearby Tapeka Point - a notoriously rough stretch of water - it's usually possible to find shelter among the islands.
Fishing can also be excellent quite close to Russell. Consistent snapper fishing, particularly close to the rocks at either end, can be found inside the bay. Tapeka Point and reefs slightly offshore and further out in the channel also consistently produce good fish.
The islands out to Cape Brett further offer excellent fishing for all species and great diving for scallops and crayfish.
To access this area, trailer boats can be towed to Rawhiti and launched from the concrete ramp by the store or from the popular beach opposite the old school.
For more information about the Bay of Islands see the December/January issue of Propeller Magazine.
www. Propellermagazine.co.nz.
