From monkeys on the Kinabatangan River to an Iban longhouse and the foothills of Mount Kinabalu, Borneo rewards travellers who look beyond the wildlife.
Floating down the Kinabatangan River on a longboat, Karen Murdie was moved by the tranquility of the Borneo rainforest – until travelling tribes of proboscis monkeys shattered the silence.
“Suddenly there were huge groups everywhere, flying through the trees, some fighting, others holding babies,” says the operations manager for Wendy Wu Tours, who ventured to the Asian island on the travel company’s Best of Borneo tour.
The cacophony continued as pygmy elephants began trumpeting from the riverbank, calling to family members on the other side.
“It was just amazing,” she says. “Such a surreal experience.”
Wendy Wu Tours specialises in fully inclusive, off-the-beaten track excursions, with all logistics taken care of.
Borneo, the large island Malaysia shares with Indonesia and Brunei, is one of its most adventurous destinations for nature and history lovers, promising untouched jungle, tribal culture and abundant wildlife.
Murdie knew the opportunity to spot animals in the wild would be up to the whims of nature, but even so she was blown away by the cornucopia of creatures she saw, one of the advantages of travelling with guides who knew where to find them.
Early morning and late afternoon cruises on the Kinabatangan offered the chance to spot not just monkeys and pygmy elephants but hornbills and crocodiles, with lodging provided along the river.
“Having someone to navigate and plan for you on a trip like this is great,” says Murdie. “And to have someone there, on the ground, in case something happens, is real peace of mind.
“When you’re immersed in nature, on the river, sometimes things need to be rescheduled. With someone able to take care of the finer details means you can relax and enjoy what you’re doing.”
The tour began in Kuching, Sarawak’s laid-back capital, where historic temples sit alongside traditional Chinese shop houses and museums. One evening, the group gathered along the riverfront to watch a spectacular light show.
From there, they ventured to Bako National Park to explore one of Borneo’s most biodiverse areas by foot.
The park is home to large monitor lizards, proboscis monkeys and macaques, “the naughty monkeys,” Murdie laughs, as they’re notorious for pilfering unattended belongings. For travellers who prefer a gentler pace, hikes can be adapted to suit different fitness levels.
Visits to Semenggoh Nature Reserve and the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre offer rare opportunities to observe orangutans while learning about efforts to protect the endangered species.
Many of the animals being rehabilitated have been orphaned by habitat loss or rescued after being rejected by their mothers, and are taught the skills they need to survive in the wild.
Murdie also visited the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre, home to the world’s smallest bear.
“They are really cute. The day we visited was particularly hot, so they were lying stretched out in the sun.”
Elevated boardwalks wind through the surrounding forest, allowing visitors to explore the animals’ natural habitat while minimising disruption to the forest floor.
Travelling in a group of just 18 people was an advantage, Murdie explains. Whether cruising the river or visiting wildlife reserves, everyone shared the same experiences rather than being divided into multiple groups.
Beyond the wildlife, Murdie found the cultural experiences equally rewarding.
One highlight was visiting a traditional Iban longhouse in Sarawak. Reached by longboat, the visit offers an insight into one of Borneo’s most enduring communities, where families still live collectively under one roof while maintaining traditions passed down through generations.
Guests meet local families, enjoy a traditional lunch, watch a cultural performance and learn about the customs that once included headhunting.
While many younger residents now leave to pursue higher education and careers elsewhere, the longhouse remains at the heart of community life.
“The local people of Borneo are very laidback, very friendly,” says Murdie. “It’s not a hugely religious area, although they do have a lot of mosques, so you hear the call to prayer ringing out across the cities in the mornings. That was quite an experience.”
The food proved just as diverse as the landscape. Influenced by Malay, Chinese and Indigenous traditions, meals feature fragrant curries, fresh seafood and bold flavours from lemongrass, ginger, garlic and chilli.
History is woven throughout the island too, with significant World War II sites offering insight into Borneo’s wartime past and the impact the conflict had on local communities. Alongside its natural wonders, these stories add another dimension to the journey.
The tour also explores the foothills of Mount Kinabalu in Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its ecological variety.
“I was pleasantly surprised by Borneo. I wasn’t expecting how peaceful, beautiful and charming it would be,” says Murdie.
“But it’s the diversity I loved. The mix of old and new in the cities, the history. It felt like an untouched land, particularly when we were out in the forest or on the river. And having the guides with us was amazing, as they were just so knowledgeable.”
Discover Wendy Wu Tours’ Best of Borneo tour at www.wendywutours.co.nz
From November 16 until December 31, customers who fly with Malaysia Airlines can take advantage of a free three-day stopover in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s vibrant capital.