The fantasy business

Buying an island resort in Fiji is what dreams are made of. VICKI HOLDER meets a Kiwi who lived that dream.

Ever wondered what it would be like to own a tropical island resort in the South Pacific? If you're serious and you've got a few spare million tucked away, they're definitely out there. A flick through the pages of the latest Bayleys Waterfront magazine offers some tantalising Fijian opportunities, while a google search for resorts for sale in the South Pacific reveals a feast of fantasy islands.

But if you think this new life might consist of lying under palm trees or swimming off white sandy beaches and the occasional dash inside to top up the guests' champagne glasses, then you are, unfortunately, deluded.

Bryce Earwaker of Ray White Damerell Earwaker, Ponsonby, is one who knows. He and his partner bought a run-down resort in the remote, north-eastern island group of Fiji two years ago. They have since transformed it into one of the top adventure spa resorts in the world.

Despite his tanned face, Bryce assures the rest of his body hasn't seen the sun since he has been there. There has been no lying on the beach, but there has been a lot of fun and many bizarre learning experiences - along with huge expense, hard work and many frustrations.

The main reason they bought this particular island - Qamea - was because it had an untouched Fijian feeling, which was "very indicative of the country with great beaches facing the sun. The more remote it is, the more real the experience". There are about 1000 people who live in villages on the island, leading a peaceful life of subsistence. Perhaps the fact one of the richest men in the world, Malcolm Forbes, owned the neighbouring island until he died, says it all.

When Bryce first arrived, the resort had a 12 per cent occupancy rate. They soon discovered why. Guests weren't particular enamoured with the overwhelming tropical heat without the benefit of air conditioning.

Experience in the hospitality trade combined with his real estate background prepared Bryce for the expense of upgrading the resort to attract the discerning American clientele. So he went shopping in Suva and bought a "reasonably-priced air con system". The electrician arrived to install it and Bryce was told the existing generator couldn't cope with the new system, so he'd have to purchase a new one. It cost him $60,000 to triple its capacity. When the electrician returned, he brought more bad news. The whole place would have to be rewired for another $38,000.

And so it went on. At this stage Bryce resigned himself to a total budget blowout. He has since completely rebuilt all 12 bures and added another five. "You name it, we did it. Everything was renovated, replaced, re-watered, re-powered, re-sewaged ...".

But with the improvements and attention to detail where it counts, the Americans came in their droves. Occupancy is now at 85 per cent, and hopefully when Bryce comes to sell it will be worth the investment.

They didn't have a lot of assistance from their predecessors who virtually took the money and ran. Bryce says initially he struggled with simple things, like finding out where to buy commercial grade dishwashing liquid.

A lot of his time is now spent organising deliveries, pulling in boats, organising people and taking them to the local villages. "We're in the fantasy business. We've got to find out their fantasy when they arrive and deliver it. We list all the activities in a newsletter each day. There are sporting, boating and snorkelling activities, the spa and private beaches. We take people on picnics and tailor activities to their dreams."

As yet, Bryce hasn't attempted to attract New Zealanders for they are ingrained in the average package family holiday idea. By contrast, Americans value the South Pacific more than we do, he says. Hence they're prepared to pay more for the privilege of being on Qamea.

"No children are allowed at the resort. We define ourselves as a luxury, romantic, dive, soft adventure-type resort in tune with the cultural/village experience."

For the first 18 months, Bryce and his partner managed the resort by themselves. Now they have hotel managers and Bryce overseas the development side. They have a consultant New Zealand chef who sets the menus, while the Guinot-licensed spa staff are French trained.

Bryce commutes between his Auckland office and Fiji every three weeks. "It's the best thing I have ever done in my life," says Bryce. "It has calmed me down. Living on an island, you get used to the fact that it could take two weeks to get something. Now, I always plan a month ahead. If it arrives in two weeks, you're lucky."

The set-up has worked well, because he has his business partner Simon Damerell in Auckland to run things there. "I get off the plane in my sandals and shorts and jump into a suit to come into the office. It's the perfect balance."

If people are looking to buy a resort, Bryce suggests they seek professional advice. "Listen carefully. Everything in the islands is different. But once you get used to it, it's easy."