Billionaire Berridge Spencer has taken a big swerve south, with a new, much-acclaimed South Island restaurant as well as two vineyards.
In May, Swiftsure by Man O’ War restaurant opened, serving wines from vineyards Spencer has on Waiheke Island as well as the new southern ventures.
General manager of Swiftsure and Man O’ War restaurant and vineyard operations, Paul Franich, said the operations were going extremely well.
Celebrity United States Olympic skier and Tiger Woods’ former partner Lindsey Vonn visited the Arrowtown restaurant a few weeks ago.
“She slipped in quietly, enjoyed the vibe and menu and within a week, several other members of the US women’s ski team – who were on a training camp locally – also came in a couple of times.”
Staff at the restaurant were delighted.
“It was such an honour to give them a taste of the South Island, especially as we want to create a place that resonates with the alpine and adventurous lifestyle,” Franich said.
Swiftsure is not only the name of the new southern restaurant but is also a new South Island wine label.
Two new vineyards are making product, not just for the bar and restaurant in the historic village but for wider sale.
The southern restaurant and vineyards greatly extend the business operations of the much-awarded Man O’ War vineyard on Waiheke Island.
That is owned by the low-profile North Shore-based Spencer of Stanley Point, who has been active on other fronts lately.
After buying a strip of retail and commercial buildings in Devonport via Peninsula Capital, Spencer has taken a huge swerve south.
“Swiftsure Vineyards is a new chapter for Man O’ War – a journey south and the opportunity to produce world-class varietals from low-yielding, high-altitude vineyard sites in iconic wine regions,” Franich said.
Isaac Group’s website says the $6.6m Birch Hill dam, completed three years ago, was the largest lined dam in the Marlborough region, covering 12.7ha and with 13m high walls.
The job was so big and so remote that it built a sheltered compound for workers with offices, break rooms, ablution block and tanks for diesel, waste and fresh water.
The chief winemaker for all Spencer’s vineyard operations is Duncan McTavish.
Franich said McTavish had nearly two decades heading Man O’ War “so is no stranger to challenging conditions and is relishing the opportunity to complement our Waiheke portfolio with Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from alpine vineyards in the South.
“In terms of hospitality, we approach it the same way wherever we are, we are here to look after people, make them feel welcome, and ensure they have memorable experiences.”
The business produces a Single Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as well as a Young Vines Pinot Noir and Bannockburn Rose.
The latter two are both limited releases, exclusively available from the Arrowtown restaurant.
That restaurant and Waiheke’s Man O’ War sell the new brands.
The wines are also on sale to the public and served in other eateries.
“The Single Vineyard Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are gaining traction, mainly through boutique retailers and restaurants nationwide – and we’re excited by the response internationally," Franich said.
The Otago Daily Times reported that the four-level restaurant and bar took 11 months to build. It has outdoor dining spaces with fire places, a “gin pit” and an internal bar and restaurant.
Queenstown’s BTP Construction worked with interior design by Swiftsure’s creative director Olivia Spencer and Mitchell Addison, the ODT said.
Olivia Spencer is married to Berridge Spencer.
Asked by the Herald about the performance of the restaurant run by head chef Yann Robe, previously of Amisfield, Franich said patronage had grown from a cold start.
“We opened in May and have seen steady growth in the months since.
“Weekend dinners are now consistently near capacity, with covers more than doubling since winter began.
“People aren’t just coming once, they’re coming back, which is a good sign.
“Locals dropping in for a glass and a quick bite or celebrating special occasions over dinner and visitors settling in for long lunches, soaking in the views.
“It’s becoming the great blend of community and destination. The feedback and early reviews have been hugely encouraging,” Franich said.
The name Swiftsure came from a little open-top boat that once ferried gold miners and mail across Cook Strait, connecting Wellington to Picton, he said.
“So it is a subtle nod to our own path from Waiheke to the South Island.”
Jesse Mulligan reviewed the restaurant in the Herald’s Viva on August 11.
“I can see why the people behind Man O’ War wanted to plant a flag down here, both to start a new chapter for the company and to continue creating a portfolio of wines that will help tell the story of New Zealand to the world,” Mulligan wrote.
Man O’ War says that for more than three decades, it had challenged convention by pursuing rugged, steep hillside viticulture on the eastern edge of Waiheke Island.
The resulting patchwork of coastal vineyard sites follows the land’s natural contours, capturing distinct terroirs and producing different varietals.
The island farm has 75 vineyards, sheep, cattle, orchards, olive groves, restored native forests and beehives, Man O’ War says.
“We’ve become well known for our Syrah, Chardonnay and Waiheke’s signature Bordeaux Blends. We also produce a distinctly different Sauvignon Blanc, a Pinot Gris and its famous Rosé.
Spencer grew up on the family estate on Clifton Rd, Takapuna. After his father John Spencer died in England in 2016, he built a new home for himself, Olivia and their children at Stanley Point on the land owned by his grandfather, Berridge Spencer snr.
The family’s fortune comes from the Caxton pulp and paper operations.
Berridge Spencer interests
Anne Gibson has been the Herald‘s property editor for 25 years, written books and covered property extensively here and overseas.