South Head Kaipara: Whimsical and wonderful

Quirky and intriguing, this unconventional artist's home occupies a stunning spot with the water at its doorstep. By VICKI HOLDER.


Body1: Burnished by the sun, the sweeping salt marshes enticed potter Chester Nealie to build an unusual artisan's home on the Kaipara Coast at South Head.

More than 20 years ago he lovingly crafted his house among the hills, which roll into the plains that reach the sea. Between 1876 and 1906 early gum diggers came ashore at this spot to weigh their gum and be paid.

Part rustic French farmhouse, part gingerbread cottage, The Weigh Station now grows out of this majestic landscape. Imbued with quirky Arts & Crafts flavour, it was fashioned from brick, timber ply and a mixture of adobe that Chester created himself with local mud and straw. Weathered Canadian cedar shingles give the steep roof its rustic charm.

Chester created a second building as his studio further down the garden path, which is handy to the large kilns built into the hill. It was here he fired his trademark earthy pots that reflect the warm, natural bronze tones of his environment.

When Chester left another artist fell in love with this unconventional home. Painter Angela Hill and her husband, Ross, escaped from the city because they could no longer "stand the glare of the paint". Chester was thrilled that like-minded folk had chosen to keep his dream alive, immersing themselves in the dramatic beauty of this countryside.

The Hills have turned the studio into delightful two-bedroom bed and breakfast accommodation - a romantic hideaway for honeymooners. Guests flee the city, often for weekends, to wind down and relax in the heavenly calm.

Much to Chester's satisfaction the Hills have changed little else about the property. The house welcomes guests as they enter beneath the heavy timber lintel to a matai-lined entry with slate-paved floors.

The warmth of timber is everywhere - in the heavy recycled matai doors, the flooring and the rustic ceiling beams. The large lounge and family room are kept cosy in winter by fireplaces in brick feature walls. Chester obviously had fun bringing the adobe walls inside, which help the interiors blend into the surrounding countryside.

French doors from the lounge and the family room open along one side to a veranda. The Hills like to sit on the deck and bathe in the afternoon sun while soaking up the views of the self-sufficient garden. The trees attract an abundance of birdlife. Mexican flame trees bring the tuis. Little brown owls settle in the kanuka on summer nights, and a wide variety of native birds, including migratory godwits, oyster catchers, plovers, bitterns and kingfishers, are drawn to the salt marshes and bush sanctuary.

The country-style kitchen features wood panelled walls and open shelving. Although it has an old-world ambience, the walk-in pantry offers plentiful storage.

The Hills added the round conservatory off the kitchen - an amazingly tall room with colourful windows and inspiring panoramas from every angle. Capped with copper on the exterior, its walls are decorated with birds painted by Angela. From this elevated spot, the Hills often spy wild deer jumping up from the mangroves.

Curious little timber-framed windows, with glazed panels peaked into a V-shape, give the three bedrooms on the downstairs level a cute, cottage feel. Each has a mezzanine floor, and the third bedroom steps into a beautiful green, glazed, tiled bathroom. Angela's handiwork is evident again in the decorative goldfinches roaming the walls. Without a neighbour in sight privacy is not a problem, so the tiled shower opens directly to a deck with a splendid ocean view.

Bedecked with beautiful douglas fir ceilings, the master bedroom upstairs gains views in every direction. And despite the rustic character of the home, the room doesn't lack the convenience of an en suite and separate toilet. Peeping through cathedral windows, a large artist's studio on this level makes the most of the natural light.

Laced with intrigue in a breathtaking landscape, this beautiful home offers a bounty of experiences that city homes can't match. You can reach the harbour by foot or canoe along the Karakaurahui Creek. There's swimming and trout fishing on Lake Otatoa 6km north, South Head Lagoon is 18km north and there's a boat ramp and store 10km away. It's a world of enchantment only an hour from the CBD.

ADDRESS: 1854 South Head Rd, South Head.

FEATURES: Two-level rural coastal home in spectacular setting; separate self-contained two-bedroom accommodation operating as a bed and breakfast; four bedrooms; two bathrooms; two toilets; large living rooms plus artist's studio; open fires; two natural springs on property supply house and stock; covered parking.

Vital Statistics

SIZE: Floor area 295sq m; land 2.22ha.

TENDER CLOSES: April 16 at 4pm.

AGENT: Anne Butler, Barfoot & Thompson, Kumeu. Ph 412 5640 bus; 021 975 856 mob.