When you are hunting for the house of your dreams, you probably start with a list of your requirements: number of bedrooms, off-street parking, outdoor areas that suit your lifestyle and so on. But when you've narrowed down the list to the best one or two houses, and commissioned a building inspector, it pays to have him check for some useful value-added extras as well as the basics:
Insulation
It is good to know if the walls, and ceiling spaces are insulated. Houses built before the 1970s may not have much more than building paper between you and the elements. Also look for underfloor foil or more. Without good insulation you will have greater heating costs and the house will be less comfortable in summer.
Central vacuum system
In newer houses, these have become the norm. Ask your inspector to check for the machine and outlets. Most standard building inspections do not including checking or running appliances, so you will need to specify it as an extra.
Drainage
If the house is in a gully or up against a bank then it is important to understand where the surface water will run to. If a property is not adequately drained away then it can cause dampness under the house, or water can sit up against weatherboards in heavy downpours which may cause rotting. You may also need to inspect drainage plans at the Council, to see whether existing drains are permitted. This is usually part of the LIM papers.
In-home ventilation
This system is very useful for houses that are in damp areas as the system will move and heat the air in the house to prevent condensation and mildew. They also act as a good heating system.
Central heating
Make sure your inspection clearly specifies what type of heating system is in the house, as some fuels can be very expensive. Also check that fireplaces, both indoors and out, comply with current building codes and have been signed off by council.
Decking
Decking used in internal decks (over living areas) needs to be maintained carefully because if there is any penetration through the membrane under the wood or tile then the chance of leaking is high. This has been one of the leading causes of rot in timber structures. Exterior timber decking needs to be checked for spans between joists to make sure that it is adequately supported, and that water drains away from the building.
Wiring
Some old houses still have rubber covered cabling in use. In some cases this is still in good condition but in most the covering is crumbling. This is a potential fire hazard so will need to be replaced.
Plumbing
There is still some Dux Quest piping (black plastic piping) in houses build around the late 70s and early 80s. This piping was taken off the market as it is prone to leaking. Again, this will affect the price you negotiate, so you may need to get an estimate to upgrade piping.
Foundations
Some foundations in older houses do not have connections between the piles and the floor joists. This is important because the house could move off its piles in an earthquake.
Exterior cladding
It is important to understand what cladding is on the house as there are many types and some are proving inadequate in certain locations. While in theory all claddings are okay if installed properly, in the correct location and are well-maintained to ensure the weather tightness of the house, this is not always the case. The standard test for moisture in homes is a non-invasive meter reading. Trained inspectors recognise warning signs such as a crack on an outside wall and check on the inside for moisture seepage. Results from this test may prompt buyers to ask for a more invasive full scale moisture test, an addition to the basic inspection.
Contact the New Zealand House Inspection Company on
0800 751 751, or www.nzhouseinspection.co.nz
Gary Koornneef - House Inspector
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