Trailblazers: Flora MacKenzie

Flora MacKenzie was a pioneering fashion designer and entrepreneur.

FLORA MACKENZIE Fashion designer 1902

Pioneering fashion designer and entrepreneur

Flora MacKenzie's taste for the flamboyant saw her preside over a Chinese-themed dress salon patronised by the society women of Auckland. Her eye for the main chance later saw her diversify her business interests. Best remembered as the madam of this country's most notorious brothel, the redoubtable MacKenzie's run-ins with the law were the talk of the town. By day she designed, by night she entertained.

Newspapers of the day kept readers titillated with reports of goings on at the exotically decorated rooms of her Ring Tce, St Mary's Bay establishment. It was filled with antiques and art and, if rumours were to believed, a revolving bed patronised by the country's great and good.

MacKenzie's colourful style was a constant. Her personal descent into alcoholism and from being born into a life of privilege to serving spells in prison took little shine off the fond farewells when she died in 1982. She was said to be a firm but fun and fair boss.

This feisty identity, who never married and declared that women should have the same sexual rights as men, was born in 1902. After secondary school she began training as a nurse, before heading to Sydney and discovering a flair for design. She returned to Auckland and in the 1920s family money helped her open Ninette Costumier.

The salon was known for elegant attire with hand appliqué and embroidery and is recognised by the New Zealand Fashion Museum. Noted designer Bruce Papas got his start there.

World War II and its influx of American servicemen into Auckland provided the impetus for MacKenzie's dual career. The frock shop was finally shut in 1957, as the knock shop continued to thrive. Between 1962 and 1976, she appeared in court six times on brothel-keeping charges, and was twice jailed for six months.

Writer and actor Elisabeth Easther became captivated by this complex character' story. Her play, Famous Flora, was staged in The White House brothel in 2014 - a venue made possible by changing social mores (and laws).

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