The frocks, the shocks ... now the buyers take stock

By FIONA HAWTIN, fashion editor

Fashion shows can be good for business. It's the reason nearly 50 designers got involved in this year's Fashion Week which wound up in Auckland yesterday.

But designers need more than a twirl by the barely clad Amazonian model Nicky Watson or a new-age violinist to draw in international accounts.

It will be some while before an accurate stocktake of whether the effort and cost of staging a show at the event based at the Auckland Town Hall turns into orders. Some designers are already talking up the reaction, others will have to wait and see.

But there were definitely some big spenders present at the L'Oreal-sponsored event this week. American buyers from Nordstrom and Henri Bendel, British stores Selfridges, the House of Fraser and Antipidoum, French store L'Eclaireur and Australian giant David Jones all had money to burn.

Nordstrom consultant buyer Eula Smith said: "I think New Zealand's a market that needs to be shopped at least once a year."

That's the sort of word of mouth Fashion Week organisers hope will continue to attract the kind of visitors needed to keep the three-year-old annual event on the circuit. They will also be reviewing feedback from buyers on the style and quality of shows staged. While some stood out, others offered little new, underlining the issue of how to pitch the week.

Creative direction manager Harvey Sutton headed a team of three from Selfridges. He said many of the collections "lacked the edge" they looked for.

The chain, which already stocks Zambesi and youth label Federation, which showed last year but not this time round, said that essential edginess was what drew Nom D to the trio. They rated the Zambesi show and also IPG for theatrical experience.

"Until we go somewhere we never know what we're looking for. It's what we find," he said.

"For tongue-in-cheek, the men's underwear show [of Ink'd] always adds to a Fashion Week."

It was Zambesi's international reputation that attracted the buyer for French stores L'Eclaireur, Michael Hadida, to Fashion Week. He also liked IPG's swimwear, Sabatini's knits, World's "amazing show", Nom D's energetic style and, although she was not showing this year, he was keen to see Kate Sylvester's collection. Having sat through some long shows, Hadida thinks some designers need to shorten them drastically.

"The idea is to give a resume of your style, not show one of every piece in every colour. It's too much," he said.

Eula Smith is picking up Trelise Cooper for the American Nordstrom department stores.

"I loved her. I bought a black floral skirt from her, but I could probably buy another 20 pieces from her range she's so talented. She's got something for everyone," said the Los Angeles-based delegate.

Smith also appreciated Sabatini for its "amazing sweaters", Insidious Fix, RJC's beautiful chiffon pieces, State of Grace's "nice mix of merchandise" and Zambesi.

Australian Harper's Bazaar magazine's fashion director Jane Roarty knows the New Zealand market well and always looks forward to Nom D and Zambesi visiting Sydney. On a personal note she "love, love, loves" Marilyn Sainty and shopped up large during her visit.

Sabatini was the show that stood out for her: "The location was sensational, the knits wonderful and the concept was brilliant - so spot on. The stylist [Alice Rycroft] took knitwear pieces and made a fabulous show," she said.

Roarty believes many New Zealand designers should use a stylist to have another point of view as big-name designers like Alexander McQueen and Karl Lagerfeld do. That would stop the sense of "seen it before and I've seen it from you" she felt at some of the shows.

"Loved the workmanship of Trelise Cooper and the young girl Angeline Harrington," she said.

"I know she's young but she's got a politeness about her in her styling and of course the World show - I loved the dichotomy of being so naughty in the gentlemen's club of Auckland."* Fashion Week ended with parades of summer retail ranges drawing thousands of people to the Aotea Square marquee, followed by an evening show by AUT student designers.



Herald Feature: New Zealand Fashion Week

L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week official site