Singapore on a budget. Photo / Getty Images
Singapore is one of the most expensive countries to live in, but it needn’t be a pricey place to visit. Savvy travellers can explore the best of the city on a shoestring budget, writes Carolyne Meng-Yee
Crazy Rich Asians is a rom-com straight out of the classic Pride and Prejudice: poor girl, Rachel Chu, meets Mr Darcy, Nicholas Young and is then thrown into the viper’s nest of Singapore’s catty elite.
I’m not a Crazy Rich Asian, but thought I could pretend to be “Rachel” for four days when the opportunity to travel to Singapore presented itself.
What’s not to love about spas, shopping, sipping cocktails and Michelin-star dining?
As usual, I leave things to the last minute, (deadlines included) and failed to read the fine print.
When I got around to reading the itinerary, I realised the premise of the trip was Singapore on a budget, which is an oxymoron, surely?
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Singapore, an island nation, is one of the most expensive countries in which to live. It is slightly bigger than Auckland, with a population of 6.04 million people. But, the difference is there are no cones, no potholes or homeless people in sight.
Even birds and bugs were scarce.
The 10-hour flight with Singapore Airlines flew by thanks to the attentive crew who regularly offered snacks and refreshments.
I’m not a fan of airplane food, but I couldn’t resist the variety of western and southeast Asian dishes: chicken rice, beef rendang, and pasta, and eating is a distraction from the monotony of a long-distance flight.
Around midnight (NZ time), when I stepped off the plane, Singapore greeted me with a warm hug.
It took a few moments to adjust to the balmy weather after leaving Auckland’s rainy weather behind.
On the way to the M Social Hotel in Robertson Quay, a chatty taxi driver recommended a few local hawker stalls that specialise in frogs’ legs congee, and chilli crab — comfort food I’d been craving.
Checking into the M Social in Robertson’s Quay was a breeze, with a service desk 24/7. It’s a chic, urban hotel with nightly prices that won’t blow your entire budget. My studio loft apartment was small and perfectly formed with effective air-conditioning. The upstairs bedroom left little room to move, but the bed was soft as a cloud and comfy.
My four days on the ground were full on.
The day started with breakfast at Beast and Butterflies, the hotel’s on-site restaurant. You can choose to have a continental or cooked breakfast, but I couldn’t resist gorging on fresh dragon fruit, pineapple and watermelon as well as pork sui mai, prawn har gow and congee.
Once fuelled, I stepped outdoors. Singapore is known for its bougie malls, street food, chic bars and nature walks. The towering skyscrapers blend in seamlessly with the restored pastel-hued shophouses.
Its infrastructure is well planned and public transport is the most efficient way to get around. Although the Crazy Rich Asians wouldn’t be seen on the MRT, most Singaporeans use it. Unlike Auckland’s public transport, the MRT is reliable, cheap and efficient.
If you’re after a cultural experience, visit Chinatown and Little India, where you’ll find temples, food stalls, floral garlands, gold jewellery, and coloured saris and cheongsams.
Located in the heart of Chinatown, is the Tang-styled Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. The bold red and gold interiors represent traditional Tang Dynasty architecture. The name “Buddha Tooth Relic Temple” honours the left canine tooth of Buddha, a symbol of his enlightenment.
If you feel like stretching your legs without spending a dime, take a nature walk and wander through the Botanic Gardens where you can admire gigantic lipstick palms, exotic flowers, lakes and sculptures.
Nearby is the National Orchid Garden, which does require a small admission fee to view over 1000 species. Some are alien-like, others cascade like rainbow-coloured waterfalls. In the VIP garden, there’s a magenta-coloured orchid named after Dame Jacinda, and a lilac one for Minister, Christopher Luxon.
It’s clear to see why Crazy Rich Asians held Colin Khoo and Araminta Lee’s lavish wedding after-party at Gardens by the Bay — it’s stunning.
The Supertree Grove is a Singaporean landmark, similar to Auckland’s Sky Tower (and unlike our own attraction, it’s free to visit). There are 18 towering tree-like structures made of steel and concrete draped in plants, orchids, ferns, and vines. They are aesthetically striking and also eco-friendly, designed to collect rainwater and generate solar power. By night, the trees come alive during the mesmerising Garden Rhapsody light and music show (also free).
The Flower Dome and Cloud Forest conservatories are also worth a visit.
My guide and I took a ferry to Sentosa, where I got to create my own perfume. At Scentopia, I learnt about where fragrances originated from, the provenance of flowers and what the perfume you create says about you. Perfume-making experiences start from $95 (NZ$125).
It was hard not to be discombobulated sniffing 100s of spices and flowers in under an hour. Making the perfume was a doddle, the mix of white flowers I chose were already liquidised. They need to be mixed then bottled. The chief executive said my bespoke perfume reeked of “attitude”.
Bar hopping and dining at hawker stalls is a favourite pastime for locals, expats, and me. Nutmeg & Clove, is a chic bar with a sophisticated vibe. Every day there is a “social hour” that ends at 7pm. Their selection of cocktails is mind-blowing; my favourite was the Lychee Martini. I am still dreaming about the complimentary crispy chicken sandwich.
In the movie Crazy Rich Asians, Rachel visits Lau Pa Sat, so we had to. It’s famous for Satay and at night you can see and smell the hawkers fanning off huge clouds of smoke from piping-hot trays of charcoal.
Lau Pa Sat is also famous for char kway teow, hokkien mee, laksa, and chilli crab. It’s a great place to chill with a cold Tiger beer.
I’m a scaredy cat who hates heights, so a ride on the SkyHelix Sentosa hot air balloon was daunting. This open-air ride ascends 79 metres above sea level to provide 360° views. As we took off, I closed my eyes and didn’t look down. But my anxiety dissipated as we gently floated, taking in the panoramic views of multi-million dollar mansions in Sentosa, theme parks, and futuristic skyscrapers.
There are 3500 birds at Bird Paradise, including pink flamingos, peacocks, and penguins. Off-peak entry fees start from $44 (NZ$58). You can get up close to feed the squawking lorikeets but I couldn’t escape fast enough... indoors where you can explore aviaries, rainforests, exotic toucans and hornbills in air-conditioned comfort.
Bird-watching made the group hungry, so we headed to Keng Eng Kee Seafood, a humble Michelin-recommended restaurant that specialises in zi char (stir fry).
The third-generation family-run business began in the 70s at Old Havelock Road Hawker Centre specialising in Hainanese Chicken Rice and shifted to Alexandra Village where it has stayed for over 20 years.
Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs, as we struggled to finish the 8-course lunch. The venue might be humble, but the food was scrumptious and cooked with love. Stand-out dishes include the coffee pork ribs, seared pig’s liver, butter prawns and Singaporean crab.
Although I didn’t cross paths with Rachel Chu or Nick Young from Crazy Rich Asians, I was happy to live vicariously through them — albeit on a budget. Turns out, there’s plenty to do in this “rich city” — even if your pockets aren’t deep.
I also brought Singapore home in a bottle with a bow on it.
GETTING THERE
Fly non-stop from Auckland to Singapore with Singapore Airlines.
DETAILS
David Seymour, Emma Higgins, Andrew Hoggard, Grant McCallum, Phil Duncan, Cheyne Gillooly.