Same South Pole, but with modern comforts

Weather permitting, Sir Edmund Hillary will head south to Antarctica today for the Erebus crash commemorations - but he is not promising to behave himself during his six-day visit.

With a grin the legendary adventurer said he was looking forward to meeting the "young people" working at Scott Base but mused that there would be "a group of somewhat distinguished guests" he would probably have to chaperone.

Sir Edmund dismissed the suggestion that he would be the most distinguished guest on the ice, joking "Well I never behave at such things."

The 85-year-old was at Christchurch's Antarctic Centre yesterday getting kitted out for the trip that will see him take part in Sunday's memorial service to mark the 25th anniversary of the Air New Zealand Erebus crash, and to open a new field centre named in his honour at Scott Base.

In between cups of tea and cold sausage rolls he patiently endured a rolling series of media interviews, dredging up different stories from previous trips to relate to each organisation.

And there were plenty. Like the 1997 trip with then-Prime Minister Jim Bolger and an American ambassador.

"I discovered to my surprise the base had quite a large bar. I'm not a great drinker but the other two had a very jolly time there.

"Oh I probably had a couple of drinks but certainly not as much as those two managed."

The bar was one of many changes he has seen since establishing Scott Base in 1957. Gone were the days of burning seal blubber in drafty huts to keep warm, he said.

"Travelling out in the field was tough but living at Scott Base was relatively comfortable. We didn't suffer much at all.

"Of course it's very different now. Now it's just like staying in a hotel in Christchurch."

Communication with the outside world was another development that has made life on the ice easier.

Sir Edmund recalled the days when communication meant a phone call once a week to his family - a "most excellent development" at the time, until a potential crisis developed at home.

"I was talking to my wife when I heard an almighty crash and scream come down the telephone. And then it just cut out, we had a communication blackout of sorts and it was a week before I got another chance to communicate with my family, which of course I spent worrying about what on earth had happened."

As it turned out the crash and scream was son Peter overturning some utensils in the kitchen - "nothing serious at all, but I did spend that week being more than a little bit concerned."

Sir Edmund said he expected the milestone commemorations to be "sombre, but appropriate."

The Hercules was due to leave Christchurch at 9am this morning, provided the weather at Scott Base was good enough to land.

Hillary's return

Today: Arrive Scott Base via RNZAF Hercules with guests including Foreign Affairs Minister Phil Goff.

Tomorrow: Tour of Scott Base. Visit to the Trans-Antarctica Expedition (TAE) Hut, the first at Scott Base, established by Sir Edmund in 1957 and about the size of two shipping containers.

Saturday: Visit Shackleton Hut (1908) and Scott Hut (1902). Formal dinner at the TAE Hut in honour of Sir Edmund.

Sunday: The 25th anniversary of the Erebus crash. Reading at 11.30am memorial service. Evening: Lecture at the United States' McMurdo Station, 3km from Scott Base.

Monday: Open the Hillary Field Centre.

Tuesday: Tour by helicopter to science projects.

Wednesday: Return to New Zealand.