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Home / New Zealand

Rare privilege to work on Campbell Island

By Paul Charman
NZ Herald·
21 May, 2015 07:23 PM4 mins to read

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Looking back from the heights above Beeman Cove, to a ship in Perseverance Harbour. Photo / Paul Charman

Looking back from the heights above Beeman Cove, to a ship in Perseverance Harbour. Photo / Paul Charman

Campbell island is usually cold, wet and windy, throwing classic exposure weather at you for days on end. That's the assessment of Campbell's most experienced "old hand", Mark Crompton, 67, of Hokitika.

Over Queens Birthday Weekend, Mark will give the opening address at a reunion of 120 to 130 former government employees who previously worked on the sub-Antarctic Island, 700 km south of New Zealand.

From about the 1940s till the mid 1990s (when instruments were automated), about 10 staff would be sent to Campbell each year.

READ MORE: 'CAMPBELL ISLAND FULL OF GHOSTS'

Mark counts himself blessed to have spent six full years there, relishing the scenery and wildlife.

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"Before services were stripped out of accommodation, during the 1990s, I could sit in the warmth of 25 degrees, with a cup of coffee, watching giant albatross metres from our hut window," he recalled.

An apparent disagreement between DOC and the Met Service led to a wrong-headed decision to strip facilities out of the main hut, and decommission the wharf used to offload supplies.

1975 and 76 MetService and Lands and Survey expeditions to Campbell Island. PHOTO/SUPPLIED

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"The wharf would have to be reinstated and quarters refurbished before parties could again live on the island and conduct meaningful science there."

During an expedition to mark the Campbell Island Bicentennial Expedition (2010 and 2011) those sent had to virtually camp out, in some discomfort, inside the main accommodation building. But from the 40s till the mid 90s, this was the scene of mostly convivial fellowship of the eclectic individuals sent to the island.

Seeing only the same faces and eating together every evening for a year had its challenges.

The skipper of the yacht "Taiama", Henk Haazen, skirts a southern right whale, off Campbell Island.

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"It wasn't usually the deeply held differences of opinion, such as over such aspects of religion or politics, which caused the friction. These could sometimes set the scene for interesting debates.

"What could try the patience and potentially lead to a blow-out were often little things. I recall a man whose habit was to consume a glass of iced raspberry drink every evening. A pretty uncivilised habit, but it was how he did it which irritated. He'd crunch up his ice, making a horrible squeaking noise.

"I never said anything - if I had he would have done it all the more to spite me - but secretly I could have throttled the guy."

Archaeologist Nigel Prickett, photographing Mt Lyall, where a "blue man" appeared long ago. PHOTO/SUPPLIED

Recruited for a programme which was a small component of the larger Operation Deep Freeze, staff sent to the island included MetService employees, mechanics, radio operators and scientists. The boffins studied everything from seabird numbers to ocean currents, seismic earth currents or geo-physics.

They were landed in groups of 10 and obliged to look after themselves, without re-supply for 12 months. So how did they cope?

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Looking back from the heights above Beeman Cove, to a ship in Perseverance Harbour. PHOTO/SUPPLIED

"Not everyone could handle it, but generally the ones who kept busy and positive were happier than those who counted down the days till they could leave," says Mark.

"Things got a bit better from the mid 1980s, when women became a regular part of expeditions.

Being co-ed made for a more balanced situation in my view.

"But the biggest part of it was personality - I met some men who found the experience devastating, just as I've met some women who did."

A seal blocks the path to the MetService station at Beeman Cove, unmanned and automatic since 1995. PHOTO/PAUL CHARMAN

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For his part, Mark found the life fun and challenging; his particular joy was working with scientists doing research on the mighty albatross, several species of which live on the island.

The Campbell Island changed vastly after sheep were removed some years ago.

"Vegetation has grown back with a vengeance and it now takes hours to walk from one end of the island to the other, increasing difficulties of daily life."

If Mark had his time over, he wouldn't change a career which involved postings to both Campbell and Raoul Islands (5 times as officer in charge).

This came into focus after he retired and had a heart attack.

"I was propped up in the rescue helicopter on my way from Hokitika to Christchurch Hospital. I had the pleasure of looking at hills I tramped over as a child, then got to reflecting on my life. I felt that if need be I really could die happy, as I'd had such a privileged life."

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