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Home / New Zealand / Politics

Tonga diary: Roasted pig, octopus and media redemption at the Pacific Islands Forum

Adam Pearse
By Adam Pearse
Deputy Political Editor·NZ Herald·
25 Aug, 2024 05:20 AM4 mins to read

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A roasted pig styled with a few flowers was among the centrepieces of a lunch for Pacific leaders and their delegations in Tonga. Photo / Adam Pearse

A roasted pig styled with a few flowers was among the centrepieces of a lunch for Pacific leaders and their delegations in Tonga. Photo / Adam Pearse

NZ Herald political reporter Adam Pearse is in Tonga covering Foreign Minister Winston Peters and Prime Minister Christopher Luxon’s attendance at the annual Pacific Islands Forum.

There’s nothing like a hearty serving of roasted pig and octopus to kickstart a week in the Pacific.

It appeared Tonga’s swine population took a substantial hit in order to feed the hundreds who gathered in the Queen Salote Memorial Hall in Nuku’alofa today to welcome Pacific leaders and their delegations ahead of the Pacific Islands Forum.

There were pigs galore at the lunch put on for Pacific leaders in Tonga. Photo / Adam Pearse
There were pigs galore at the lunch put on for Pacific leaders in Tonga. Photo / Adam Pearse

Tables adorned with dishes of great variety lined the edge of the hall with guests seated in between, surrounded by delicacies largely supplied by local providers.

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The pigs were the centrepieces. Looking past the slight unpleasantness of the still-attached head, its crunchy, golden-brown skin hid beneath it a tender and flavoursome meat.

A tasty octopus dish wasn’t to be missed. The Ota Ika – Tongan raw fish salad – was as good as expected. Those lucky enough to enjoy the food on offer were also treated to some glorious singing from the Ma’ufanga Youth Choir.

Nothing would have been all that surprising or new to Winston Peters. Having travelled to 14 of 17 Pacific countries since October in what is his third stint as Foreign Minister will have bestowed plenty of experience with the region’s delicacies.

The lunch followed a well-attended church service at the Free Wesleyan Church of Tonga.

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Even with a capacity of up to 1000, it took little time to fill scores of black pews atop well-trodden floorboards. Tall, white walls reached up to glistening chandeliers.

The Free Wesleyan Church in Tonga could reportedly hold up to 1000 people. Photo / Adam Pearse
The Free Wesleyan Church in Tonga could reportedly hold up to 1000 people. Photo / Adam Pearse

This was the King’s church and while he wasn’t there, church members of other denominations were invited as a way to mark the special occasion.

Representatives of various Pacific countries arrived in quick succession. An almost never-ending procession of the Chinese-made GWM Tanks dropped off leaders and ministers one by one.

A suite of GWM Tank vehicles were used to drop off and pick up the Pacific leaders attending the church service in Tonga. Photo / Adam Pearse
A suite of GWM Tank vehicles were used to drop off and pick up the Pacific leaders attending the church service in Tonga. Photo / Adam Pearse

Rich, booming singing greeted churchgoers from a choir dressed in spotless white. The Royal Tonga Police Band performed a serene anthem.

Leaders, including Foreign Minister Peters, were seated in chairs to one side of the altar, directly across from an area reserved for local chiefs and nobles.

French ambassador to the Pacific Véronique Roger-Lacan, the focus of much attention given the controversy and unrest surrounding New Caledonia, sat in the front pew – not shying away from the challenge the week poses.

France's ambassador to the Pacific Véronique Roger-Lacan (centre) turns to speak to her neighbouring church-goer during the service. Photo / Adam Pearse
France's ambassador to the Pacific Véronique Roger-Lacan (centre) turns to speak to her neighbouring church-goer during the service. Photo / Adam Pearse

They all listened as Reverend ’Alifeleti ’Atiola urged his congregation to keep their faith in troubled times.

“Do not abandon the boat. Stay in the vaka [canoe],” he said.

With the Pacific Islands Forum officially opening tomorrow, was the reverend sending a message of fortitude to Pacific leaders as their region becomes more contested by larger powers like China and the United States?

Is it a more specific call to those from the Micronesian countries who threatened to split from the forum in 2021 and are now returning to the fold?

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Or is it a wider plea to all Pacific peoples, whose way of life is threatened by a warming climate caused by nations that don’t have as much to lose?

Locals in Tonga catch up after the church service ends. Photo / Adam Pearse
Locals in Tonga catch up after the church service ends. Photo / Adam Pearse

Peters clearly had a theory, telling journalists afterwards: “I hope you learned something from that.”

Renowned and sometimes appreciated for his jokes at the media’s expense, Peters credited journalists for being part of what had been a “marvellous start” to the forum.

“I was glad to see the media [at church] because I thought, ‘Nobody’s beyond redemption’.”

Adam Pearse is a political reporter in the NZ Herald Press Gallery team, based at Parliament. He has worked for NZME since 2018, covering sport and health for the Northern Advocate in Whangārei before moving to the Herald in Auckland, covering Covid-19 and crime.

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