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Home / New Zealand

Oscar de la Renta: Polite with a touch of pizzazz

By Alexander Fury
Independent·
21 Oct, 2014 09:00 PM3 mins to read

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Designer Oscar de la Renta acknowledges the audience after his Fall 2014 collection show during Fashion Week in New York. Picture / AP Images

Designer Oscar de la Renta acknowledges the audience after his Fall 2014 collection show during Fashion Week in New York. Picture / AP Images

The passing of Oscar de la Renta has left a vacancy: couturier to America’s royalty, writes Alexander Fury.

It's Oscar de la Renta's designs of fairytale evening dresses for glittering socialites and red carpet tromping that have attracted the loudest tributes following his death late on Monday.

His role in this area of fashion was, of course, important. It helped to cement de la Renta's name in the general public consciousness, via gossip pages, television news coverage and Sex And The City episodes. Oscar de la Renta dressed Hollywood royalty and international aristocracy, leading ladies and First Ladies - most recently, Michelle Obama, who wore her first de la Renta just over a week ago.

Nevertheless, all of the above focuses attention on who the man dressed, rather than what he dressed them in. True, the instantly recognisable faces probably helped propel de la Renta's business to its current state, making close to £100m in sales annually. But if de la Renta wasn't making decent clothes, all that celebrity froth wouldn't have counted for anything.

What Oscar de la Renta excelled at was making polite clothes with a touch of pizzazz - the word dreamed up by former American Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland, who encouraged de la Renta to join the salons of Elizabeth Arden as designer to help make his name. That was in 1963 - by 1965, he had his own label.

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Despite frequently being pegged as a quintessentially American couturier, there was always a root of Old World craftsmanship in his clothing. He trained with Cristobal Balençiaga and at the house of Lanvin, and turned down a job with Christian Dior.

In the nineties, he took up haute couture duties at the house of Balmain for nine years until the label decided to shutter the line, showing biannual collections in Paris. There are few designers working in fashion today who can boast a comparable pedigree.

Oscar de la Renta's style was most frequently described as classic. His clothes were always well-made and well-behaved, frequently beautiful. The spring/summer 2015 collection, his last, showed soft lace suits and pastel silk faille dresses with foliate embroideries, skirts cut higher in front to allow legs to move easily, a de la Renta classic which was also a trademark of Balençiaga.

He outfitted his women for every facet of their day, from day suits to cocktail wear to gowns for the grandest social occasions like inaugural balls. Oscar de la Renta was an unofficial, unwritten White House uniform of sorts, thanks to his close associations with both Nancy Reagan and Hilary Clinton. Far removed from the vagaries of mere Hollywood endorsement, that kind of approval is the American equivalent of a royal warrant. De la Renta practically monopolised it.

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See some of our favourite Oscar de la Renta red carpet looks here:

Sarah Jessica Parker. Picture / AP Images
Allison Williams. Picture / AP Images
Aubrey Plaza. Picture / AP Images
Kerry Washington. Picture / AP Images
Michelle Williams. Picture / AP Images
Hillary Rodham Clinton and Designer Oscar de la Renta. Picture / AP Images
Tina Fey. Picture / AP Images
Lupita Nyong'o. Picture / AP Images
Freida Pinto. Picture / AP Images
Jessica Chastain. Picture / AP Images

Image 1 of 10: Sarah Jessica Parker. Picture / AP Images

- VIVA

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