New stars are on the horizon with the Michelin Guide announcing its launch in New Zealand, but its decision to only focus on four cities has drawn criticism from restaurateurs in areas that have been snubbed.
The inaugural New Zealand guide, due to be released in June next year, will cover restaurants in Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown – a disappointment for businesses based outside those centres, some chefs say.
Meanwhile, Michelin Guide said the four cities were selected as the starting point to establish the guide’s foundations in Aotearoa and hinted at future expansion.
Tourism New Zealand last week announced the three-year and $6.3 million partnership to bring the Michelin Guide, the world’s most famous restaurant ranking system, to New Zealand for the first time.
Created in 1900 by the French tyre company Michelin and now covering almost 50 destinations, the guide previously didn’t have a presence in Oceania, including Australia.
Karl Martin-Boulton, owner and chef at Hamilton chef’s table restaurant The Green, said the announcement was “huge news” and a “coming of culinary age” for New Zealand.
“I’m super happy that Michelin are here, it’s a real benchmark for New Zealand.
“There are incredible restaurants ... in these places and I’m rooting for them all.”
However, in his view, the inaugural guide would not be a representation of the country’s food culture as a whole.
“It’s not [going to be] a representation of New Zealand, it’s a four-city guide,” Martin-Boulton said.
“The focus is on the main touristy areas and there are absolutely phenomenal places further afield that [will] have been missed.
“The question we’ve got to ask ourselves is what message this sends to chefs across New Zealand.”
He feared people seeing the guide would unrightfully conclude places not featured in the listings were not worth visiting.
“I feel for places like Blue Duck Station, which is one of the most magical places in New Zealand... and Embra just around the corner.
“Hawke’s Bay and Craggy Range are not far and they absolutely cleared up awards. They are all not going to have a chance to be included.”
Martin-Boulton used to be the chef at the Old Downton Lodge Restaurant in England, which, while not receiving a star, was recommended in the 2017-2020 Michelin Guides under his leadership.
Martin-Boulton wouldn’t be drawn on whether he believed The Green should be included in a New Zealand Michelin Guide.
“I’m never going to sit here and say we should be included.
“The Michelin Guide has their own system and restaurants are like shoes, not all shoes fit everybody.
“But it would be nice to be able to shoot your shot.
“I think we all want to show the best version of ourselves [and] at the moment, we aren’t able to do that.”
He said the decision to focus on the four cities raised more questions than it answered.
“The whole base [of the Michelin Guide] was to drive, to explore. Auckland and Waikato are not that far [from each other].”
Auckland and Wellington are about a 7.5-hour drive apart, with Martin-Boulton saying he believed a lot of people would opt to fly the distance.
He said he loved the Waikato region and believed it should be loud and proud.
“We [Waikato] are the larder of New Zealand, there is not much that doesn’t grow here.
“[In Hamilton alone] we have an amazing food scene, amazing producers.
“I hope there is a plan [after the initial guide next year] to actually look at New Zealand as a whole.”
The sentiment was echoed by Nora Blackburne, who owns the restaurant Embra in Taupō with her husband and chef Phill.
She said she had mixed emotions about the decision.
“It’s very exciting – we are all in the same industry, so we all know how hard we work, so we are excited for our colleagues [in the four cities].
“But Michelin not doing anything outside the four regions is disappointing.
“It feels like this move does not recognise the work we do outside of the four cities, and while we understand this is the first year ... we hope [Michelin] extends this to the regions in future.
“It would be wonderful to at least have the possibility of being included in the guide.”
Blackburne said Michelin, as a well-established, global brand, coming to New Zealand meant a lot, but the local Cuisine Good Food Guide had a “much deeper” understanding of the local restaurant industry.
“There is already a great New Zealand system in place with Cuisine... [which] does a good job at promoting the regions.”
Hamilton and Waikato Tourism chief executive Nicola Greenwell said she, too, was excited about the Michelin announcement.
“However, we are disappointed we will not be able to showcase the fantastic restaurants the mighty Waikato has to offer.
“The Green, Palate, Alpino Cambridge, Zealong Tea Estate, Gothenburg, Sage – and the list of our great eateries goes on.
“We’ll be encouraging and advocating a visit to the mighty Waikato next time.”
The Herald understands the decision to focus on the four cities had been made by the Michelin Guide.
A spokesperson for the guide in New Zealand said any new Michelin Guide launch was a “gradual journey”.
“Before expanding into new regions, Michelin builds its network of inspectors and develops a deep understanding of the local dining landscape.
“The four launch regions... were selected as the starting point to introduce the guide and establish its foundations in Aotearoa.”
The spokesperson wouldn’t confirm why Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown were chosen, saying it would be “uncovered” in the launch next year.
“As Michelin inspectors continue to explore and uncover the richness of New Zealand’s culinary identity, we look forward to seeing how the guide evolves in the years ahead, including the potential to expand into more regions.”
They wouldn’t confirm how many inspectors were in New Zealand or how many restaurants were being assessed.
While stars are the most coveted distinction in the Michelin Guide, there are no guarantees any will be awarded in New Zealand.
Minister for Tourism and Hospitality Louise Upston said although four cities were chosen for the launch, all of New Zealand would benefit from the “international exposure of Michelin’s presence”.
Danielle Zollickhofer is the Waikato news director and a multimedia journalist at the Waikato Herald. She joined NZME in 2021 and is based in Hamilton.