How to find a model job

By VAL LEVESON

So, you think modelling would be an easy way of making extra cash while studying or pursuing other career aims.

Think again. Although in New Zealand the field is part-time, the work that goes behind the career is not.

There are different types of modelling and most agencies feature a modelling section and what they call a "talent section".

Caroline Barley, director of Nova, says the models she's looking for are 13 years old plus. To be a high-fashion model you need to be between 16 and 25.

You need to be about 173cm and size 8 to 10. A symmetrical, well-structured face, personality and confidence are requirements ... as is that elusive characteristic, the X-factor, she says.

Models often do both catwalk and photographic work. "Because the market here is small we need all-rounders," she says.

Barley explains that the talent side of agencies is open to all sorts - babies, oldies, twins, Joe Average. These people can get TV work, be in adverts and do a bit of acting.

The New Zealand market is small, but there is an opportunity to go international. So says Michael Hooker of Michael Hooker International, who launches international modelling (not talent) careers.

He says he encourages New Zealand models to look further than this country to make a real go in the field and to look at it as a career.

He usually finds work for his models in Australia first, then looks to other opportunities in places such as Dubai (tax free and a market that's fast getting established) and London.

He adds that the market dictates a certain look. If you are Asian-looking or Maori/Pacific Islander with fine features, you'll be popular in Japan. Germany goes for blonde, blue eyes with olive skin.

International model, talent scout for 62 Models and author of a book out next year called Model Citizen, about modelling in New Zealand from the 1950s to the present day, Colin Mathura-Jeffree says the money is definitely in going international.

He warns of the pitfalls of the industry. Mathura-Jeffree has faced the problems of racism and stereotyping because of his Indian-Pakeha descent. "The industry in New Zealand tends to be Eurocentric - it subliminally promotes racist stereotypes. Just look at TV adverts ... certain colours can be seen doing certain work.

"I have refused to fit the norms. My work speaks for itself and it transcends race. By going international, I have succeeded," he says.

He says models need to be realistic ... to be able to look at themselves and look at what the market wants at any given time.

"Play the game, work yourself, put in the time, be healthy, have a good work ethic.

"You need to be secure with yourself. In New Zealand people tend to undercut you if you're successful in a field that's based on image.

"People can be very mean - making comments like your skin isn't so good or your bum is too big ... things that they'd never say about people in a more ordinary industry.

"Don't be intimidated.

"Good self-image and grounded values are vital. You need to be secure mentally and have strong family support. It's easy to go off the rails, party too much and fall flat."

Erin Ashby, director of August Models and Talent, agrees. "In New Zealand the market is small-minded. You can be punished for too much exposure. You won't get into one campaign because you've been in another.

"Think about Kate Moss - how many campaigns has she been in? Internationally it doesn't matter. Here it does."

Ashby says attitude is vital " ... as are looks. Good skin, proportion in face, height ... "

Pay can range from $120 an hour for in-house work to thousands for a big campaign. "It's the luck of the draw," Ashby says.

Mathura-Jeffree says he was originally spotted by a talent scout ... but a way to be discovered is to approach an agency and take with you a few pictures of yourself. They do not have to be professional photos. "Just good enough to give the agency an idea of how photogenic you are."

Beware of con-artists.

Ashby emphasises that agencies do not charge to put you on their books. You do pay for the courses, so there is some investment ... "but be careful of anyone who asks for money for photos, to approach agencies and that sort of thing. "

Apparently there's a scam talent scout operating in Auckland asking for about $300 for amateur-looking photos and another $300 to approach agencies. Be careful.

Ashby and Mathura-Jeffree say modelling needs work and dedication, you need to be available and you have to be reliable.