Awaroa Estuary in Abel Tasman National Park. Photo/ Supplied
Neighbours at the top of the South Island, Nelson and Marlborough share a rugby team but the two regions couldn't be more different.
To the east, Marlborough. World-famous (and not just in New Zealand) for sauvignon blanc, this is a place of winding waterways and bays in "the Sounds"; broad plains, vines marching across in orderly lines; inland, rugged mountains and valleys. It's a place for lazing in secluded bays, cruising serene waters with dolphins playing off the boat's bow; or hiding away in a romantic waterside lodge.
To the west, Nelson. Here too, life is meant to be enjoyed. The city enjoys more sunshine than anywhere else in the country; sandy beaches, mountains and rivers on its doorstep; a sophisticated arts scene and palate-tingling cuisine.
Whether it's a food and wine indulgence, soaking in a creative community of artists, a feelgood escape to the outdoors, pampering at a spa or browsing boutiques, each region is perfect for a long weekend's getaway, doing as much or as little of what you love.
As mentioned, they make a bit of wine around these parts. Fun facts: there are over 20,000ha of vines, two-thirds of the national total, and Marlborough has more than 120 wineries and 30-plus cellar doors. If it's got wheels, you can use it to tour the vines and taste the wines any time of the year, from pushbikes to vintage cars to horse-and-trap. You won't have to pack a picnic; there are vineyard cafes and restaurants in every direction. Another fun fact: they're more than savvy. Sample pinot noir, chardonnay, cuvee, riesling, pinot gris, montepulciano, gins and craft beers.
MARLBOROUGH FOOD
Marlborough's menus feature a gourmet platter of produce. In fine-dining restaurants and chippies, cafes and delis, feast on crayfish sandwich, pāua fritters, local lamb or put together a picnic of fresh fruit, cheeses and just-baked bread. Greenshell* mussels and farmed salmon from these waters are as internationally renowned as the wines that match with them. Taste the local flavours at one of our largest and longest-running farmers' markets at Blenheim's A&P Showgrounds every Saturday. Expect locally grown fruit and vegetables, coffee roasts and artisan products like tempe, pate, hot sauces, chutney, gourmet sandwiches and BBQ Swiss sausage.
MAIL BOAT
"The Sounds" are four extraordinary drowned valleys created 10,000 years ago when ocean levels rose. Stands to reason that the best way to see them is from the water. Since 1869 the Pelorus Mail Boat has delivered mail, groceries and supplies to isolated homesteads with no road access, mobile reception or mains electricity. Residents still row out in dinghies or wait on tiny, secluded beaches for their deliveries. Tag along to
say hello, admire spectacular scenery and wildlife: cruises leave from Havelock (30min from Blenheim, 60min from Nelson) year-round.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK
… or explore on foot, bike or sea-kayak. The 72km Queen Charlotte Track is not classified as one of our Great Walks (locals are campaigning for that) but is among 22 Great Rides. Come here to appreciate gorgeous coastal views, historic landmarks, native bush and wildlife. The environmental, cultural and lifestyle experience combines the best of Kiwi walking and biking with a network of cruise and pack transfers, resorts and lodges, and great food and wine. Options are unlimited: take in a few hours or cover the whole trail in 4-6 days. Permits are required because it passes through private land.
NELSON'S BEACHES
Tāhunanui (Tāhuna to locals) is a primo beach – and more, especially for families. The epic sandy beach is backed by dunes and surrounded by grassy parklands, with snow-capped mountains behind. So swim, run, stroll, paddleboard, windsurf or snooze. But wait, there's more: a hydroslide, bumper boats, skating-rink, kiddies' zoo, BMX track, tennis, mini-golf and petanque courts. Just a little further out of the city, Mapua Wharf houses a vibrant collection of restaurants, cafes, galleries and bespoke stores; enjoy a sunset meal or throw out a fishing line. Ferry to nearby Moturoa / Rabbit Island for a beach picnic.
ART & CULTURE
Nelson has long been a haven for artists and craftists, nowhere better shown than at WOW. It's a genre-bending museum of two distinct collections that "collide in a celebration of design, innovation and wonder." One is fashion, tracing the World of Wearable Art concept that began life in the city; alongside, a collection of 140 classic cars dating from 1908. The renowned Suter Gallery, fabulously refurbished in 2016, is another highlight. The art collection is of national significance, including a large selection of local Toss Woollaston's panoramic landscapes and pieces by renowned ceramic artists.
WELLNESS
Does 'ohu' mean anything to you? OK, in the 70s our government funded these alternative lifestyle, mindfulness, off-the-grid, vegetarian communities across the country (no, your reporter did not ingest any substances prior to writing this section). They flourished where land was cheap and beautiful, such as Nelson. For 50 years the region has cherished its relationship with all things natural and spiritual, becoming a focus for experiences of the mind, body and soul, from simple yoga sessions to some of the world's most high-end wellness retreats – less James K Baxter, more Gwyneth Paltrow.
EAT
Far from the maddening crowds, Hopgood's consistently wins national honours for its modern bistro-style dishes. At Urban Eatery, Matt Bouterey's menu is no less stylish, based on "what we are into at the moment, whether it's an ingredient, band, chef or current event". Out of town, a meal at Moutere Hills winery matches boutique wines with Michelin-starred chef Alistair Forster's elegant creations. Saturday's farmers' market is famous for its longevity – almost 40 years - and high quality.
GREAT TASTE TRAIL
Nelson is a boutique wine scene: its 22 cellar doors are almost all family-owned. Don't say it too loudly because you'll upset the neighbours, but our champion sauvignon blanc comes from this side of the island. Best way to enjoy that, and outstanding pinot noir, chardonnay and aromatics, is to bike the Great Taste Trail from Nelson. You'll enjoy rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery; stopping at beaches, art galleries, boutiques, fruit stalls, cafes, winery restaurants and craft beer pubs – remember, this is the home of Riwaka hops. Take several days or break it into shorter rides.
ABEL TASMAN
Just 65km from Nelson, Abel Tasman is our smallest national park but it's huge on natural wonders, wildlife, adrenaline thrills and places to chill. Plus, the climate makes it a good place to visit at any time. Because it's the only national park on our coast, you can bask in the best that the mountains and the sea have to offer. Every year thousands come to hike the Coast Track – the most popular of our Great Walks. If you're not up for that or you're pushed for time, there's much to enjoy amid hidden coves, sandy beaches and seaside villages.
Bruce 'Pic' Picot is best-known as founder of Nelson-based Pic's Really Good Peanut Butter, exported to Australia, Asia, the UK and US, and its factory and tourist attraction, Pic's Peanut Butter World. He's a philanthropist who supports Tasman charities, fundraisers, community groups, schools and the arts, as well as charities in Australia, the UK and US.
I've got a bach out at Mairehau at the start of the Abel Tasman National Park. When I go out there, it's completely relaxing. The village is completely unspoilt. The best beach is owned by the Wakatū Incorporation and they make it available to anyone who wants to go swimming or just hang out there. They don't allow powerboats or kayakers or commercial operations to work off there. It's about 1km long and at the end there's a sandbar. So you swim down, and when you've done your kilometre you touch the bottom and swim back. A lot of stingrays mooch around but they're very friendly. The sandbars go out for 300-400m at low tide. I love going out across the sandbars in the evening as the sun's going down. A lot of tourists come to stand on the waterfront and take photos of the moon coming out of the sea. We've got similar places like Cable Bay – there's a bit of an adventure tourist attraction out there – but there are beaches beyond that that nobody ever goes to. They're a bit wild, they may be a little bit rocky, and to get
to them you've got to walk across estuaries and mudflats, but they're stunningly beautiful and when you there you'll have them all to yourself – and they're only 20 minutes, half an hour from town. Wear a pair of Crocs - you'll finally find a use for Crocs. I live in town behind the cathedral at the bottom of the Grampian Hills. We've got a hill at the back where you just walk and keep on walking – you can walk to Havelock, you can walk bloody near all the way to Kaikoura without seeing anybody. It's a civilised track to start off but then it turns into liniment and scroggin country – all just out the back door of Nelson. It's amazing.
The 21-year-old woman allegedly instructed someone to destroy evidence.