Frantic countdown for nation's top designers

Liz Mitchell fits a gown made of more than 100 metres of white, ivory, silver and gold silk organza and tulle. Picture / Dean Purcell

All over Auckland this weekend a fashion frenzy is taking place. Not just the usual Saturday stampede to the shops, but the frantic countdown to the industry's big event, Fashion Week, opening on Monday evening.

Fittings, walk-throughs, last-minute sewing and styling, the juggling of seating plans, it's all occupying the minds of our top designers and a crop of hopefuls who put their careers on the line in four days of trade shows starting on Tuesday in the Air New Zealand-sponsored event.

Down at Fashion HQ at the Viaduct, 9000 goodie bags are being packed in a giant former America's Cup shed this morning - not for VIPs, but for the public who are getting their first chance to participate in FW this year, when it ends with an open-to-all-ticketholders day next Saturday.

And after the air kiss and the champagne, what's more fashion than the goodie bag, in New Zealand mostly limited to a cosmetic sample or two, but overseas the "swag bag" of Oscar proportions is so weighty it has attracted the attention of the tax collector.

Here, the main inspections will be by the fashion police. For shows, of course, are spectator sport, with buyers and media sizing up the styles on offer for winter 2007. Yes, that's right, as you're just starting to think about your summer wardrobe the delegates are trying to decide if the designers have what we'll want to wear next year. The designers in most cases are already working on summer 2007-08 ranges and beyond.

To save confusion, the shows open to the public will focus more on summer gear you can actually buy in store now. Highlights of the week's winter ranges will also be included and recordings of the invitation-only shows will be shown throughout the venue. By declaring next Saturday as ANZFW4U organisers expect that numbers will be much higher than the 14,000 attending in 2005.

There will also be bands playing, places to wine and dine, a designer garage sale and makeup lessons, meaning even po-faced fashionistas might return for some fun.

For the designers, of course, the focus is more business-like. The invitation lists are a chance to not only woo international and local buyers, but also reward loyal clients and celebrities. Expect blockbuster shows from Trelise Cooper who has an off-site venue and a rock 'n' roll vibe from Nom*D, Zambesi and newcomer Huffer. Edgy elegance will be in order from Kate Sylvester, Carlson and Little Brother.

Karen Walker, just back from showing in New York, is not doing runway this year and the absence of established names like World and Workshop means eyes will be on the next generation of designers, among them Hailwood, Juliette Hogan and Cybele.

The shows are an opportunity for designers to present their collections as they'd like them to be seen, styled to interpret their inspirations. Most keep their looks firmly under wraps until show day.

One designer who would reveal a little was Liz Mitchell, who spent yesterday fitting her evening wear. Mitchell has taken her inspiration from the moods of the sea. She's promising shimmering gowns, with a sexy twist on her usual beautiful tailoring.

Hers will be one of several glamour ranges, including from overseas-based New Zealand labels: Yvonne Bennetti from Hong Kong and Dubai-based Arabesque, whose designer, Peter Loughlin has a clientele of wealthy Arabs.

Some collections, like Mitchell's are all but ready, for the less well organised, it's a sprint to the line.

And for everyone attending, the pressing question this weekend is: What Not to Wear?

Today: Canvas fashion issue

* Key summer looks.

* How to wear white at any age.

* The shop of the future.

* It's a wrap: the dress everyone is wearing.

* Is your suburb stylish?

And lots more trend-setting reading in New Zealand's top newspaper magazine. Plus your chance to win a WoW weekend in Wellington.

Next week

* Daily coverage of Fashion Week in Section A.

* Viva: Special 36-page Fashion Week issue on Wednesday.

Online

* nzherald.co.nz/fashionweek

* Plus from Tuesday, FW blogs and picture galleries.

Tickets

* Ticket prices range from $25 to get into the venue, but not the shows, through several tiers of prices for show seating up to $80 for a gold elite pass.

* Details: nzfashionweek.com