KEY POINTS:
Aase Storeheier Hopstock
What do you do?
I'm an intern with the Kumfs Shoes design team working on designs for next summer.
We came up with 150 designs, then culled them back. Depending on the cycle, I am designing shoes or making alterations to prototypes.
The
internship is part of my study at London College of Fashion.
How did you end up at Kumfs in New Zealand?
I was in my second year of studying shoe design in London and decided I wanted an internship that gave me practice in making comfortable shoes.
I get sick of buying shoes that are beautiful artworks that I hardly ever wear because they are so uncomfortable. I researched and found Kumfs, which was originally founded by podiatrists.
I'm here for six months. They were expanding beyond their traditional market and were keen to have new design input.
It is great to be part of a design team that won't compromise on comfort.
What is the process of making a shoe?
After drawing a design, we mask the last (a foot-shaped mould) with tape, draw our pattern on, then cut down the centre front and back and peel the masking tape off to create two layers, which when flattened on paper, become the patterns. We adjust and cut. There can be between seven and 40 pattern pieces depending on the complexity of style. The pattern is placed on leather and cut with a 'clicking' knife by a clicker.
Both patterns and cutting can also be done by computer and machines, which are faster and cheaper.
Then the leather pieces are sewn together to make an upper with backers, stiffeners and toepuffs added to give the shoe more rigidity.
This gets put on the last again, moulded by heat, then further shaped before the sole is added.
Finally the shoe goes through various finishes - spraying, waxing, polishing. If changes are needed to the prototype, we go through the whole process again. This can happen many times before we're satisfied with the fit and look.
Why New Zealand?
I came to New Zealand as a Norwegian AFS exchange student when I was 18.
I had an amazing time, had seen the fashion growth happening and decided to come back and study fashion here.
I did AUT's fashion degree, specialising in costume design.
After finishing I realised I wanted to be a footwear designer. No one offered footwear design in New Zealand so I researched and found London College of Fashion.
How much connection is there between fashion and shoe design?
There is a strong link.
Both involve design, pattern making, cutting and sewing. So the core stuff I learned at AUT, like basic design principles, academic writing, patternmaking and use of materials has all been relevant to the footwear industry. I did really well in my first year in London because I had a good knowledge of the fundamentals of fashion and design.
What skills or qualities do you need?
An eye for design is essential.
At Kumfs, you also need to continually think about comfort and fit as well.
You need a concept of spatial awareness because you have to visualise how your design will work in 3D.
Until you're involved in making a lot of stuff on a large scale, it is hard to gain that ability.
You need technical drawing skills, the ability to think outside the square and to forecast fashion trends.
Best part of the job?
To see your shoes in production is amazing. The internship has been beyond my expectations. After first two weeks, I was pinching myself, thinking I've learned more in two weeks than in six months of college.
School teaches you the basics that would take forever to learn in the workplace but applying those skills in real life situation is so different.
Most challenging part?
Making sure your design looks good in bigger sizes and that it is practical, not just pretty.
There is so much to think about. For example, you design a sandal but then realise the strap needs to be moved so that it doesn't cut into the flesh or splay the toes.
Advice to someone wanting to do same thing?
There are two angles to footwear; the technical and the design. Getting work experience is really important as is developing a good knowledge of fashion and design.
Kumfs have some kind of internal technical training, but New Zealanders have to go overseas to get footwear design training.
Career hopes for the future?
To become known for creating beautiful but comfortable shoes.
My Job
Name: Aase Storeheier Hopstock
Age: 26
Role: Kumfs intern footwear designer
Working hours: 35-40 hour week
Average pay: Starting wage $15 to $20 per hour for internship
Qualifications and institution: AUT Bachelor of Fashion Design (Costume Design)
Currently studying Bachelor of Arts (product design and development) majoring in footwear at London College of Fashion (Cordwainers)
