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Home / New Zealand

Fashion Week beauty report

By Janetta Mackay
NZ Herald·
27 Aug, 2014 09:00 PM6 mins to read

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Beauty looks from Zambesi and Lucy McIntosh at NZ Fashion Week. Picture / Supplied

Beauty looks from Zambesi and Lucy McIntosh at NZ Fashion Week. Picture / Supplied

Definitely a day two feel on the face front, confirming the trend to "worn-in" eye make-up with a painterly patina. From sepia colour washes to a lined soft smoky look, or a combination of both, eyes were the most in focus feature. Lips were largely left pink-nude or occasionally deep red.

After the confronting beauty looks of Fashion Week day one, a more mannerly approach to using earthy yet off-kilter eye shadows showed how wearable they can be. They play up eyes and sit on skin without the artifice of brighter shades, making taupe through tan to olive, winners of the prize for best-dressed eyes. Paired with floaty or softly raised hair, the overall effect is ethereal rather than oddball. Both are better than standard issue, an approach seen in a few too many shows.


Pardon My French and Lucy McIntosh
This show in two halves saw Lucy Kemp of the Pardon My French label opt for an intense cat eye for her grunged-up Beatnik girls. I love a strong show look and, while this one has done the rounds overseas, it was nicely contrasted with smoothly ironed hair from Sara Allsop for ghd. The reigning New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year switched it about for Lucy McInstosh (pictured above), going for grungy styling, with a texturised wet-look. This was similar to the hair seen the night before at Stolen Girlfriends Club, but instead of the usual combo with a dark smoky eye, M.A.C's Samantha Holley grounded the look in the now, with a greyish-orange eye mix.


New Zealand Wedding Magazine Collection
Two looks for brides, with the Bobbi Brown team subtly pushing the boundaries and hair director Leisa (correct Leisa) Welch for Joico coming to the party. Brides are increasingly questioning cookie-cutter classicism, so nice to see rose pink lips and chignons parked for the occasion. Cream gowns were a consistent choice of designers in this group show, but these varied in cut from simple sheaths to billowing and bejewelled. Beauty-wise there was nothing to scare the aunties, yet enough variety to keep the fashion-conscious bride from feeling like an unfamiliar guest at her own big day. provided it is appropriate to the occasion, enjoy a little self expression.
Hair took two turns, worn romantically loose in a halo of curl or softly pinned up in a faux-bob in a modern interpretation of Gatsby style. A matter red lip was teamed with a soft smoky eye for the woman who likes a little depth of colour. For delicate types, try the combination of a pink lip and softly flushed cheeks, with the added definition offered by eyeliner.

Makeup at Pia. Picture / Supplied
Makeup at Pia. Picture / Supplied
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Pia

The fresh, young designs of Pia were complimented by hair worn braided and twisted up. Scantly made up skin was lifted by an expressive sweep of white liner, thickly applied in two strokes, one winging along and out from the upper lashline and the other across the brow bone.

Liner as decorative gesture is a fun trick to try, especially in an unexpected colour. Smashbox have clearly picked up on this face painting trend from the international runways and we reckon it's ripe to rock here come music festival season.


Andrea Moore
The surrealist influence promised in Andrea Moore's show wasn't at all evident in the beauty look. Shame, but understandable given there would have been a lot of colour to compete with in the clothes. The Smashbox team played it super safe, however, with clean skin, a little liner and a red lip that was spared from being unduly obvious by its nice depth of colour. Sara Allsop for ghd introduced a slight wave to softly shiny hair.

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The beauty look by M.A.C at Juliette Hogan. Picture / Supplied
The beauty look by M.A.C at Juliette Hogan. Picture / Supplied

Juliette Hogan

Another designer who talks edgier than she delivers. Her vision of New York City girls with a "take it or leave it attitude," doesn't chime with mine. I saw Mummy-approved style and an extra wee smear of smudgy eye shadow, more "Uptown girl, living in a Downtown world".

Her beauty look was polished, drawing on the considerable skills of stylist Lauren Gunn with the Vada team and M.A.C's Josie Wignall. Gunn, former creative director at Stephen Marr, is a backstage favourite, able to calmly conjure striking looks that aren't overworked. She gets the understated Hogan approach and adds a clean freshness, seen this show in four separate looks: hair flowing loose, with and without waves, in a jaunty pony tail, and turned into a twisted updo. Wignall also delivered, with luminous skin, a natural-but-better lip blend and eyes softly lined and smoked.


Zambesi
After 35 years it takes a lot to throw these exemplars of the New Zealand fashion industry, but having to wait more than 90 minutes for their show to start - through no fault of their own - was unforgiveable. With around 1000 people kept on hold as a flow-on effect of a ripped dress delaying the preceding show and and technical delays from an afternoon show, the call to get things going needed to be made a lot earlier, particularly given that seating for half the crowd had to be moved back into position.
With an archive as extensive as Zambesi's, one dress is just a drop in the bucket, not a show-stopper. Theirs is a continuum of ideas, evolving through a show and the seasons, so no one element overshadows the overall impact. So too their beauty looks, which while often strong, never shriek, but are more about representing a vision than providing a template.

Discover more

New Zealand

Backstage at NZFW with Katherine Lowe: Day 1

26 Aug 11:10 PM
New Zealand

Fashion Week day 1 beauty report

27 Aug 01:20 AM
New Zealand

Fashion Week show report: Zambesi

27 Aug 10:14 PM
New Zealand

Fashion Week: Day 3 show reports

28 Aug 01:20 AM

This season, with a lot of strong colour in the collection, makeup and hair were pared back. Kiekie Stanners for M.A.C took to taupe with a vengeance, using it on eyes - where it veered tannish-green but was kept soft and warm by being twinned with brown liner and mascara - and on lips and nails. This nodded to the label's long pedigree, she said, with taupe having had earlier outings.

Hair director Jason Chong Li for Stephen Marr said he thought of Zambesi as being timeless, but having a quirky, almost punkish edge. This explained his choice of an asymmetric fringe atop a tailored head for male models --- whose sloping spikes were achieved with the use of natural hair extensions. For the women, he said he wanted "something really clean, but I'm not sending a model on the runway with a pony tail".

Instead he subverted the style, with a candyfloss hint of a collapsed Mohawk. First hair was fixed into a sleek low ponytail, then a slim section was semi-lifted out and teased up from the centre of the head, through the crown and down below the tie. This play with texture - of the smooth and the raised - was seen also in a bobble effect fabric used in the show.

It's all about the detail and how this adds to the overall impression, which was of another memorable show. Shame many in the audience were well beyond their normal mid-week bedtime when it started.

See highlights from Zambesi's show here:

Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.0
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.
Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.

Image 1 of 10: Zambesi. Picture / Fiona Goodall/Getty Images.

- VIVA

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